Clay Paky miniscan help required

[Orca]

Hi Guys,

 

I've been lurking on here for a while now. So far I've found the answers using the search function. However, I can't find anything this time so thought I'd better register.

 

I've just bought a pair of Clay Paky miniscan HPEs. During testing one, the lamp would go out after roughly 20 mins of use. Still had power to the unit as it was still scanning etc just no lamp. I replaced the bulb and it did exactly the same again. On closer inspection, I noticed that the large fan below the bulb starts as it should when you power the unit up. However, after 5 mins or so the fan stops. I assume the heat builds up causing the fitting to go into protection.

 

Have any of you guys experienced this before? I could replace the fan but I'm wondering if the power supply to the fan is at fault. Looking at the exploded diagrams from CP, I have to pretty much strip the chassis to get to the fan. Therefore, I won't change it unless I have to. Seen this before? Any ideas?

 

Second question...

 

On the second unit, the mirror bulkhead has seized to the shaft of the stepper motor. Need to remove it to replace the mirror. Removed the grub screws and have applied tiny amounts of penetrating fluid. Still it won't budge. I'm nervous of damaging the stepper motor by pulling on the bulkhead. How robust can I be? Never done this before so asking first before I break something.

 

Many thanks

 

John

[ianl]

Yes the fans often break, and sometimes as you describe, new fan time, get from cpc/ farnell

Doesnt take too long to change once you get used to it, make sure you put the replacement the right way up

 

To change a mirror you just stick another one on, if you need to remove the assembly , they often stick, 2 pairs of pliers levering against each other carefully so you dont bend anything

[niclights]

As Ian says the failure of the lamp fan is very common. It runs directly on 240v so it can't be PSU.

 

Accessing is easy:

 

- Remove yoke (note lock washers between housing and yoke)

- Remove lamp access cover

- Remove lens

- Remove four screws and plain washers securing top half of unit and lift housing clear being careful of the pan/tilt cable that is attached (I usually just flip it over and lie up upside down immediately alongside the base)

- Remove lamp shield

- Remove lamp

- Remove lamp terminals and pull clear of bulkhead

- Remove nut and lock washer holding ignitor to bulkhead

- Remove screws securing bulkhead, ease ignitor back to clear and lift bulkhead (note screws have plain and lock washers)

- Remove four screws securing lamp plate to base (also with plain and lock washer)

- Lift lamp plate clear of base taking care of thermal switch cables that are still attached (I usually sit it at the rear of the base)

- Loosen fan clip nearest ignitor

- Remove fan clip furthest from ignitor complete with washers

- Lift and disconnect fan

 

The factory cabling is crimped together with 240 feeds to the ballast. To make connection easier I usually chop the existing cabling and fit a terminal block above the ballast to splice in the new cable. You should note however that it does get hot in there and can melt some plastic insulation. That said I've never had any issues over many years.

 

When reassembling note that it is normal to have some play between the fan and the case - the clips don't usually hold it absolutely tight.

Be careful when refitting the bulkhead that it seats correctly in its guide in the base and that the loom, thermal switch wires and fan wires don't get trapped and feed through the gap provided.

 

Getting the lock washers back between the yoke and the case is probably the hardest part!

 

 

Regarding mirror I don't think you need to remove the plate from the motor but one trick that sometimes works is to heat with a heat gun.

[Orca]

Wow! Fantastic replies chaps. Thank you both so much for taking the time to type that out :)

 

With that guide I feel much more confident in tackling replacing the fan. Main thing is you've taken the guess work out of the finding the issue.

 

Looking at the CP exploded diagrams the part number for the fan is 030789 (200-240V).

 

Don't suppose you guys have a spec or link for the fan so I know what to look for on CPC? That way, I can pre order fan, strip, replace fan and rebuild in one go.

 

If not, no problem. You've already helped me massively.

[niclights]

ebm-papst 8556N - CPC order code MF67564

[Orca]

Just ordered it. £22 delivered. Not too bad

That's fantastic. Thanks so much for all your help :)

[gyro_gearloose]

You could have converted your Miniscan to LED. You wouldn't have had to buy a new fan.... :D

[Orca]

I saw your thread before and took great interest. No mention of cost in thread.

[gyro_gearloose]

Guess you missed this bit at the bottom of the first page then :) :

Now I know what I'm doing it would cost me around £120 in parts to make myself another complete LED unit consisting of the LED, the plastic body, power supply, LED drivers, heatsink, and nuts, bolts, and wiring.

[Orca]

You guessed right!

 

Something to consider for the future. Thanks :)