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Pulsar Datapak


thads1

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Hi..

 

I help run a village hall in Essex that has a very nice stage. All the lighting is very dated going back to 1960 so we've decided to replace it all with a small economic set up. We have been given a Pulsar Datapak iii 18 x 5amps per channel dimmer but it's an install. We'd really like to be able to remove it when not in use so it doesn't get damaged when the halls let out for other functions. Could this unit be fitted with a cee form plug and if so what amp, 32, 64? I'm not going to do this myself but would like to know before we start suggesting this to our local sparks. We only intend running 500watt units from it. Any info etc would be very grateful.

 

Thanks

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I think you should install and leave it in the hall. Somewhere out of reach if possible. Worst case- it gets wrecked, you'll find another on Ebay for £100 or less.

 

Its not so much the power supply as the expense of detaching 18 channels of outputs. You either need 18 sockets on flying leads or 3 Socapex / Lectriflex sockets fitted to bottom of case - plus matching leads to your lighting array

 

 

 

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Install it high up and leave in situ - generally there's not a lot of maintenance needed on them, perhaps the occasional fuse which you can replace safely from a pair of step ladders. If the step ladders are kept locked up then no one else can fiddle with it. Failing that - install in a cupboard the end terminations of your wiring and keep the cupboard door locked, however do fit a couple of air vents to the cupboard doors.
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This should be a fixed install, get a good electrician to install it and the suitable feed cable, and send all the outputs to where you need them. IIRC there should be a selection of bus bars inside to allow three phase or single phase use and the instructions are probably still printed on the inside or outside of the lid.

 

Get the local chippie to build in a suitable cabinet with vents and key access, the dimmer is not meant to be repeatedly moved.

 

If you can't trust the hirers then maybe you shouldn't be hiring to them.

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I've got a Data Pak 2 and adapted it with a 63A single in and 12 x 16A outs. it's all built in to a ply case with a hole cut out where the fan vent is.

 

So this is possible although it took me a good day to modify it but my labour is free to me!

 

+1 for leaving in installed in a safe place in the venue. When was the last time, say, the fire alarm system got 'wrecked' in this place.

 

 

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks guys....

 

Just realised I had responses.. Doh! Got a sparky in this Monday to check it out. Putting tails on it with 16amp cee form sockets. The supply is 60amp single and I've managed to acquire two from E-bay. Had a little look inside and can see where to attach the feed etc but for the leads out there only seems to be live and earth connections?? Cant find any neutral connection. Any ideas?

 

Also, anyone who uses these, are they reliable and really worth having?

 

Cheers again all

 

 

Rob

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Just realised I had responses.. Doh! Got a sparky in this Monday to check it out. Putting tails on it with 16amp cee form sockets. The supply is 60amp single and I've managed to acquire two from E-bay. Had a little look inside and can see where to attach the feed etc but for the leads out there only seems to be live and earth connections?? Cant find any neutral connection. Any ideas?

 

Also, anyone who uses these, are they reliable and really worth having?

 

Any respectable spark will have no problem wiring these up, you shouldn't need to worry about where to attach anything if you're not doing it.

 

 

As for reliability most of the Pulsar kit, even the really old stuff, is rock solid in my experience.. I've still got some pretty old rack-packs in service and they have never given me any bother :)

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These are rock solid items, once your sparky has connected them you should have no problems for years.

 

Do be careful to fit the correct channel fuses. Whatever the indicated current rating they should also be HRC and FF rated. The fuses available from craplin are usually glass bodied and are too slow to blow, so a lamp failure clears the triac first. Get good ceramic bodied HRC FF fuses of the correct rating then the fuse should have completely cleared before the triac is at risk. The triacs are an easy repair but not as easy as fitting a replacement fuse.

 

Go to RS or CPC/Farnell and get a few boxes of the correct fuses -getting genuine fuses is important.

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