some opinions please

[AndyJones]

I think in this instance I would look into getting a custom bracket made up by some local Black Smiths. Something simple that bolts around the beam. which then gives you either a bit of stud to bolt onto or a hole to accept a shackle pin (appropriately moused(sp?) of course) I would have though that Quarter inch steel would be more than strong enough for the application needed.

 

I think you would get something that looks far better, and once installed and load-tested could be forgotten about.

[Seano]

wanted it more tidy

So why on earth would you use 2 tonne Spansets?

I already mentioned it, so wont labour the point but: clicky

Skinny little shiny steels, with clear pvc sleeves on the baskets. Little wee shackles or shiny maillons to make the connections. Tidy.

 

Oh, and I'd prolly ditch the big clunky hanging bracket, swap the ali tube for steel and get a couple of neat little pad eyes welded on directly.

(Also possible with aluminium of course, but much cheaper and more readily available in steel.) Once fabricated, you could always paint or even powder-coat it.

 

Then again, do you actually need 2" tube? Is it necessary to hang the LED thingamabobs on hook-clamps for some reason?

How about a bit of box-section steel, drilled to allow the LED thingamabobs to be mounted directly and take a couple of eye-bolts instead of a big ol' bracket.

 

Then again - again - how are you going to cable it? I imagine that'll have more impact on the tidiness (or otherwise) of the overall installation than the rigging itself.

(Didn't occur to me sooner because I'm not used to thinking beyond the rigging. :D)

If you want it really tidy, and if you have a reasonable budget, how about a bit of 2-chord Litestructures 'Shoplive' or 'Astralive' truss? Workable with your LED gizmos?

 

A concurrent post has been automatically merged from this point on.

 

I think you would get something that looks far better

Than skinny wee SWR's? Its subjective of course, but not to my eye. Unless you're talking about getting a proper blacksmith to do a nice twiddly bit of wrought iron? :o

 

once installed and load-tested could be forgotten about

Valid point. Though a quick annual check of the rigging wouldn't necessarily be much of a chore if the fixtures need a PAT anyway.

 

(edit for spag)

[AndyJones]

Unless you're talking about getting a proper blacksmith to do a nice twiddly bit of wrought iron? :o

With a wrought iron gargoyle on it maybe? :D

[Brian]

I can understand why you might not want to drill it but it's a few minutes work to pop three or four holes in. The loss of strength in the beam will be minimal especially if you can pop then into the neutral axis. It's the sort of thing that happens in other (electrics/plumbing/air-conditioning) trades all the while.

 

If you're nervous then a structural engineer will take no more than 15 minutes to do the calculations for you to prove it remains safe. The money spent on him will easily be recovered by not buying piles of other hardware. And it will look very neat and look like it's part of the building.

[AndyJones]

I must admit, that I Think Seano's idea of having an eye welded to the beam is the strongest and smallest way forward.

[Seano]

I must admit, that I Think Seano's idea of having an eye welded to the beam is the strongest and smallest way forward.

Actually I was talking about the bar when I suggested a welded pad-eye. (Instead of using one of these big clunky hanging clamps.)

Welding an eye to the beam might be an option too, but the structural implications are quite similar to drilling a hole - you'd need to be confident about it and/or possibly consult a structural engineer.

 

Lot of options for such a simple install innit? :D

[DSA]

Site drilling wins over site welding any day of the week (in the right situation...).

 

And FWIW - my preferred blind fixings are either the Molabolt, or the Hollo-Bolt. Rivnuts have a place, but I've yet to actually specify them on a job.