Pete Posted May 29, 2006 Share Posted May 29, 2006 Is it a 110? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stuart91 Posted May 30, 2006 Share Posted May 30, 2006 Also, if you're doing anything with live power it's a very good idea to make sure your multimeter has fused leads. This is where some of the Maplin specials can fall down... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robloxley Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 The Fluke T100 & T5-1000 testers are worth a look at too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
handyandi Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 Again a vote for flukes. Have a number of 87s which are 10 years old & still going & take a right amount of abuse. Got a few of the new 179's which do temperature along with the usual & came with a nice magnetic strap to fix it anywhere metallic & pick up any tools in the vicinity!! A bit pricey in comparison to say the RS isotech's but we have destroyed a number of them. Battery compartment is separate as well which saves having to break the cal seals. As they say buy good quality to start with & you wont have to keep replacing it year after year. Andi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbuckley Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 Adding to the Fluke vote, I have three, a simple DMM (dunno what model, its in the garage and it's 8C out there), a graphic multimeter (end of line bargain at RS) and a RMS clampmeter. But heres something you should have in your toolkit: The Steinel Combo Check, a blunt tool, detects volts with enough accuracy to know if your across phases, and checks continuity, and doesnt blow up when you check the continuity of a live mains circuit. Less than thirty quid at TLC, so not so painful if it grows legs. Mines a bit different to this specimen, I guess 'cos its older. http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Images/Products/size_3/STCOMBI.JPG They do a lower cost model that just detects voltage, over a massive range (6V to 500V IIRC), but it doesnt half spark when you put it across mains! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goochr96 Posted June 2, 2006 Share Posted June 2, 2006 Dont forget gs38 for proving a circuit is dead or not. If you will be doing this with a multimeter, I suggest you have a look at THIS Complies fully with gs38, so it has fused test leads, finger guards, no more than 4mm exposed metal. The continuity function on it is only for checking the integraty of the lamp before and after testing, use full if you dont have a known supply or proving unit to hand. I know its not a multimeter as the OP requested, but something we should all think about using when working 230 upwards. Either it lights up or it dont!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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