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DIY Subs


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Hi Folks,


I normally hit a quiet spell from Jan - Mar and I normally spend the time catching up with maintenance / paperwork etc and I also try a few projects !


So this time im looking at building a DIY subwoofer (or 2 or 4!!) just for the hell of it and Ive found a couple of designs on the web. The mains ones seem to be :


Bill Fitzmaurice http://www.billfitzmaurice.com/




Rog Mogale http://www.speakerplans.com


Has anybody got any experience of either of them ??? Rob , I saw your name on a forum talking to Rog .


Ive no real application for these in mind but if they were any good I might put a big rig together for live bands .


Im looking for earth shaking bass and a high SPL !


Thanks folks



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Have you looked in the forum of speakerplans (speakerplans.com/forum) its a very active DIY speaker rig forum.



Yes, but thats the forum for Rog Mogules speaker designs so just a bit biased. Im looking for some independent opinions of how good these designs are.


Both camps seem to claim that there designs are the best things since sliced bread and are far better than the big commercial manufacturers, so the question is how good are they.




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Take a look here also:B&C Speaker plans


Consider also:


Truck (van/car/pickup/mate's estate) packing. Are they actually gonna fit?

Cost to finish the project (grill metal, foam if needed, castors, carpet or paint, glue, handles, connectors)

Space to acually build (assuming you're considering 18s or 2 x 18s, you'll need an empty garage and a table saw at least)


Reflex subs are probably the easiest of speakers to build and have a chance of them sounding something like, since it's a box and a driver. The appropriate driver has to be chosen, and the box has to suit he driver and be tuned correctly. I KNOW manufactures spend gazillions on R&D and have all sorts of clever CAD and so-on, but you can make a simple reflex sub and have it work well if you're careful, and there's plenty of software that can calculate volume and port dimensions.


Whether you want to spend ages in the winter sawing up plywood and getting all sticky with PVA, when you can buy secondhand top notch subs for around £250 each is another matter.


If you want a real woodworking challenge, search for the LAB sub. Scroll to the bottom of this page: LAB Sub project. They use 2 x 12" Eminence drivers.


Good luck.

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The speakerplans subs get pretty good reports, but when I considered some once, the snag is many of them require very precise angles, and without a proper bench/table saw with a decent sheet size capability, getting accurate angles is rather difficult. I did make a pair and the angles were just a bit off, and after moving them a few times, the gap in the mating surfaces cracked and the damn things rattled and buzzed at certain frequencies. I'm certain that it was my cutting, not the design that was at fault. The ones I made were the Looney bins. I tried to repair them, but once the cabinets are finished, you can't get in to repair errors like mine. I removed the hardware and scrapped them in the end. I am not planning to build any more. With a proper saw, I'm sure it would have been fine. The number of panels with non-90degree angles is pretty tough to get right!
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For a compact, efficient and high output sub, then I recommend you take a look at the punisher design from walt de jong, a dutch designer. you will find links to the design on the speakerplans site.


they are a single 12" horn loaded design which is horn loaded. I personally built 8 doubles ( twin 12") earlier in the year and can state without doubt that they are very powerful indeed, 1 twin 12" sub easily outperforming 2 b&c sub218 ( twin 18 reflex) which I also have made ( speaker making is a bit of a habit of mine!)



the twin punisher subs are the ones under the mids highs, which I also built as my version of a res2.


in terms of building horns, yes, accurate mitre angles are essential. As a hobby builder, I strongly recommend the use of a guide rail saw, such as a festool which is what I use - I dont own a table saw and wouldent want to, the guide rail saw being more compact, safer and easier to use on your own


dont get put off though, it is great fun and very rewarding! If you are a newcomer to woodwork, start off with something easy and learn as you go. for fixed install or domstic use, use mdf, for anything involving road use, use bb grade birch ply only.

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I built and own LAB subs and BFM (Bill Fitsmaurice) DR290 tops.


See here together:




The LAB subs are everything you heard about them. Very efficient and loud, very low distortion, true Hi Fi low end.

They use (2) ‘normally’ priced 12” custom Eminence drivers.


But be warned, their construction is relatively complex and you are basically on your own, you will have to learn and plan the build by yourself.

They also turn out big and heavy (around 120 kg!).


Though I have not built or used any of BFM’s subs, I do have excellent experience with other of his designs (beside the DR290s).

Bills designs are based on thinner ply with extensive bracing so they turn out quite light. They also use commonly priced drivers.


As much as Bills designs are complex (compared to ‘standard’ frontal cabs) this complexity is reduced drastically by the comprehensive

set of plans and detailed step by step construction/ instructions you will receive for about $15.


Also, a good bunch of experienced builders (as well as Bill himself) are very responsive on his forum to assist you if in need.


I would suggest a search of users of the candidate subs in your vicinity for a real listening evaluation.



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Seeing as its cold and wet from Jan to March and you want to build some subs, why not build them inside like this :blink:



Brilliant . :D :D The only subs in the world that you need planning permission to build !!


Hmm, my dads a brick layer !! Will I ................ nope, I think not ;)



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