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PP3 Torches / Flashlights?


stillwave

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Hi all,

 

Have been searching for a torch that accepts PP3 9V batteries, to eat up the growing pile of PP3's.

 

So far I have found a 'Nitepalm 4' which looks ideal (magnetic base, rubber casing, PP3) but was wondering if anyone has a cheaper alternative? I have searched the forum & only came up with a reference to 'wavicle'? which appears to be a way to convert a maglite to accept PP3, typing this into Google comes up with all sorts of rubbish. I would imagine this 'wavicle'? is a dummy battery with PP3 clip sort of contraption?

 

so I am looking for a way to convert a 3xC cell maglite for PP3 (understand only adds up to 4.5V), or a new torch / flashlight like the one mentioned above?

 

 

Regards,

 

Ben Wainwright

 

Edit: on re-reading 'wavicle' seems to be an LED conversion kit! :), but if anyone still knows a way for a maglite to accept PP3's?

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PP3 batteries have a limited capacity and are therefore not well suited to powering torch bulbs, most of which require at least 0.5 amp.

 

One could of course use an LED, but if powered via a simple dropper resistor, that would not be very efficient. Two Leds in series would be more efficient but would complicate the design.

 

A ready made torch that uses PP3 batteries would be a better option

seems to be the only readily available one.palight

 

It would be possible to convert a maglight to use PP3 batteries, but more complex than at first appears.

One could make a dummy battery the same size as however many D cells the torch uses.

Fit inside this dummy battery a holder for the PP3.

A special bulb would also be needed, suitable for 7.2/9 volts but at a low current, this would probably have to be an LED.

A multi voltage LED torch bulb exists, called the "everled", very expensive though, and a fairly limited run time on such a small battery.

The capacity could be increased by useing two or three PP3s in parralel, but connecting batteries in paralel is advised against, especialy if they are at different states of charge.

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PP3 batteries have a limited capacity and are therefore not well suited to powering torch bulbs

 

Agreed. I propped up the Every Ready company wih my pocket money when I was a boy, draining PP3's with torch bulbs (I could buy one for 49p).

 

I discovered the 4.5V 'flashlamp' battery (2 brass strips) and life changed overnight.

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I have a PALights "Onestar LED Flashlight" that I bought years ago from SouthBay Sound & Light t'other side of the pond. Takes a PP3 battery and contains circuitry to extract every last drop of energy - just checked the battery I'm using at the moment and it's still producing a decent amount of light from a Duracell Plus with a voltage of only 4.6volts! Not very effective at reducing my stock of old batteries though - they last far too long!

 

The torch has a variable output - it turns on at low power and then steps up to progressively higher intensities if you hold down the on/off button. My version never fully turns off but keeps a glimmer of light from the LED, which is great for finding it on your desk in the dark.

 

Latest versions are available from a UK distributor from about 11 quid (if you buy two).

 

David

 

Edit: The "NitePalm 4" is simply a rebadged version of the "Safe-Light Handyman" - one of the later versions of my torch - with a dollop of extra profit added for the middleman. Postage is free from the official distributor as well - whereas simplyhike add another £2.96

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  • 5 weeks later...

Thanks for all the replies, for the help of other people searching for similar in the future.

 

I have chosen 2 x handyman torches from safelight, the customer service was excellent! Especially as they listened to my requirements and even suggested alternative products in their range that I hadn't considered such as green led to help combat the problem of 'nightvision'.

 

Received them today, they are quite rugged, feature a removable clip (has a magnet on the clip), as with all LEDs the colour rendition isn't good, it has a 'hot spot' in the centre of the beam which has more of a blue-ish tint. The rest of the beam has a yellow tint. The unit fits snugly in the hand and the single button is very intuitive to use. Haven't had time to test the battery life yet, but not exactly a priority considering the use I got it for!

 

I have also built a few snap-on types with LEDs as suggested 2 x 10mm LEDs in series with a resistor which rather neatly fits into the end caps of a butchered Procell, total cost was less than £1 which makes them more useful for general stage use rather than stay on my person, leaving one of these on 24hrs a day still takes approx 3 days to drop to an unusable level on an already half used pp3.

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  • 4 months later...

just completed a Mk2 version of the butchered procell. uses 2 x 5mm 'superflux' leds and a subminiture slide switch. I found that the 10mm leds weren't any brighter for the applications they were being used for (general illumination / worklights) where the fixed mains blues in the wings didn't reach, the superflux leds have little lugs on the legs which help hold the leds in whilst soldering.

 

This version is still less than £1.50 a torch for all the parts. I've also made a 4 x superflux led version with a series / parallel arrangment for the leds (discharges the battery in about 15Hrs) which is perfect spread of light for 'professional' musicians that don't bring a music light!

 

Regards,

 

Ben Wainwright

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just completed a Mk2 version of the butchered procell. uses 2 x 5mm 'superflux' leds and a subminiture slide switch. I found that the 10mm leds weren't any brighter for the applications they were being used for (general illumination / worklights) where the fixed mains blues in the wings didn't reach, the superflux leds have little lugs on the legs which help hold the leds in whilst soldering.

 

This version is still less than £1.50 a torch for all the parts. I've also made a 4 x superflux led version with a series / parallel arrangment for the leds (discharges the battery in about 15Hrs) which is perfect spread of light for 'professional' musicians that don't bring a music light!

 

Regards,

 

Ben Wainwright

 

Any chance of some pics of your battery lights. has just sparked the obvious yet illusive solution to our wing working lights while using up the 500 plus pp3's

 

Genius

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http://www.stillwave.co.uk/storage/Image057.jpg

http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/9045/image057p.jpg

 

Sorry if this is distorted, not uploaded photos to this board before. this photo shows a 4 led version wired as 2 pairs of 2 leds in series, pairs are in parallel.

 

http://www.stillwave.co.uk/storage/Image122.jpg

http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/9912/image122n.jpg

 

internal pic of 2 led version. I found that leaving the little tags that connect to the smaller cells inside the gutted battery were better to use than soldering straight to the lugs as this tended to melt the plastic a bit too much! (not the best at soldering... but it'll do! :D )

 

a dab of hot glue allowed to set before closing the case & applying tons of the stuff to fill the cavity of the torch stops the circuit from shorting out as you close the case

 

Hope this helps.

 

 

Regards,

 

Ben Wainwright

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brilliant So the casing for the LEDs is a cut down PP3 GENIUS

 

I had a play the other weekend and experimented with stuff laying around the workshop.

 

in the end I used some old LED display lights (the ones that you recess in the floor.) taped it to the bottom of the PP3 and then crimped them to a pp3 battery cap which clips to the battery. Works a charm and so far one PP3 at 8 volts from start has worked for 48 hours continually. perfect for wing workers and stairwells. Put a magnet on the side of some and can stick them anywhere (metal).

 

thanks for the drop of genius and a way to use up the 500 or so PP3's kicking around

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Is the blue part the bottom out of a PP3 or something else? They are a very neat design, I may try and put some together.

 

With the 4 LED series/parallel arrangement, are you still using a resistor, or are the 5v LEDs run straight off the battery?

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It is the bottom of the PP3, but only it seems to be available in a procell. this year Panto has used some slightly cheaper Varta branded ones which don't have the same moulded base (it's just a peice of plastic wafer).

 

Having said that I have had a bit of success in trying a 'Hybrid' by using the top of a Procell & the Varta Base (is slimmer but is too slim to house a switch). I have also found some 2 way side switch dips that I'm going to try out.

 

I tried take some pics of one in use, but the nature of it being used as a dim worklight means the camera couldn't focus!

 

Pic 1 - the insides

Pic 2 - the finished torch

 

 

 

Regards,

 

Ben Wainwright

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Links don't point to the photos you intend!

Moderation: We've been scratching our heads as to why the pictures didn't work - we've 'bodged it for the moment' - until the right mods pop up who can do a proper repair, it may lok a little odd - paul

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Sorry Andrew,

 

Years ago I created a .htaccess file on the webspace to stop hotlinking :D

had me confused as well? I was wondering why it was sending me to the main page of my site!

hopefully all sorted? can't quite tell on mine now, have cleared my IE cache and restarted browser and seems ok!

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