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Problem with Zero88 Betapack


DaveBennett

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Hey,

 

Got two Zero88 Beta packs at our school, both running 32A (not sure if single/three phase).

 

Basiclly, on both of them, only certain channels/inputs work. So for example, the whole of channel 6 wont work, but one input on channel 1 will work but not the second input on channel 1.

 

Very random and unexplainable!

 

Any idea why there doing this, and how to fix it!

 

Many thanks,

 

Dave

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What you are saying is that the top 15A socket is working but not the bottom on channel 1? If so it is either a broken socket or the cabele has came out of the back of it as the two sockets on each channel are just daisy chained. The channels not working at all could be a few different things. Mounted just behind the sockets are 6 little boards with a coil a few caps and a small 8 pin opto IC. Then mounted behind those is a row of 6 triacs. The problems with channels not working at all could either be the opto IC or the triacs. I would try swapping the IC from a working channel first. If this doesnt work then swap the triac. Also something to watch out for with these pack is that if you have eith 3+4 or 5+6 locked on or off there is another set of opto ics on the main control board. Usually white ones. These are more than likly your problem.
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The problem with channel 1 can only really be a broken or disconnected wire inside the unit or a broken socket - fairly quick and easy to repair if you know what you are doing.

 

The problem with channel 6 could be the same if they have had some abuse but it is worth checking the fuse for that channel if there is a chance that it may have been overloaded or a faulty unit plugged into it.

 

Nick.

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Hey,

 

Sorry I posted that a bit quick before I ran down for dinner!

 

The channel one and six where just examples, as I cant remember what ones it is. Both the Betapacks do it, different places on each, its very random and theres no sequnce from which ones work. Below is an example of what its like, not exactly how it is.

 

1-2-3-4-5-6

/-x-/--x-x-x

x-x-/--/-x-/

 

Number represents channel number, each row being the two seperate rows of plugs on the Betapack and / meaning work and x meaning not working.

 

They've both always done it, theyve done it since they were baught but no one realised/cared when they first arrived. Came from an online retailer (wont say who) about 2 years ago.

 

Cheers,

 

Dave

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Firstly, let us be clear that the Betapack does not have plugs on the front panel. Plugs are things that have pins sticking out.

 

As others have said it is not going to be an electronics problem if one socket works and the other doesn't on a particular channel. The random nature of the failure indicates that the screw connections on the rear of the sockets are loose and the packs are unsafe to use.

 

I see from your profile, that you are a student and are unlikely to be competent to be dealing with internal electrical connections. Please take these packs out of service immediately before you have a fire or something worse and get a qualified electrcin to reair the connections.

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I see from your profile, that you are a student and are unlikely to be competent to be dealing with internal electrical connections. Please take these packs out of service immediately before you have a fire or something worse and get a qualified electrcin to reair the connections.

 

The internal connections to the 15A sockets on betapacks are relatively simple, anyone who can wire a plug can check (and tighten) the screw connections on them (they're unlikely to have come loose from the PCB)

 

Obviously if you're a student then you're unlikely to be insured for doing this sort of thing - but if there's someone else in your school/college (a technician or something?) that could either supervise you or do the work themselves it should be a simple repair.

 

However, I second boatman's comment that in their current condition these are unsafe to use and should be removed from service until they are repaired.

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Yes, sorry, the sockets on them, not plugs! Had been a long day.

 

I will disconnect them on Monday, open them up and look for anything obvious and then pass them onto the qualified electrician to repair.

 

Cheers for the help.

 

Dave

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Have you tried the dead sockets with a known working lantern?

 

I service these a lot and have never ever had the link cable from top row

to bottom row fail

 

ever

 

and even if they did, a few on each unit!!!

 

I would say packs have been 'messed' with

 

be careful with what you are doing and get them sorted before use

 

Cliveybaby

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I may be missing something really obvious, but it sounds to me like a few blown fuses- from what I remember, the betapacks had a fuse for each individual outlet - i.e. 2 x 10 amp (for example!) fuses for channel 1.

 

This seems to me something worth investigating even if its wrong - just swap some fuses over.... just seems incredibly unlikely that the screw connections on all the rear of the sockets are loose in so many cases.

 

Apologies if I've got this wrong...

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from what I remember, the betapacks had a fuse for each individual outlet - i.e. 2 x 10 amp (for example!) fuses for channel 1.

 

That's not correct, there is only one fuse per channel of two sockets (at least at the front of the unit) and if they go there's a little LED that lights up next to them.

 

However I'd like to reinforce Boatmans comment. Remove the units from use and give to someone qualified to fix.

 

Genus

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The OP never stated what connectors his Betapacks are fitted with.

There was a version with two IEC outputs per channel, instead of the more common 15A variant.

As I recall, these had an individual fuse per IEC outlet, plus the channel fuse that every variant has. Only the main channel fuse had a "fuse blown" neon.

 

If this is the case, then blown fuses seem far more likely as a cause of these faults than such a large number of loose wires.

 

Dave, can you tell us whether your dimmers have 15A sockets or IEC C13 connectors on them?

 

Tom

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There was a version with two IEC outputs per channel, instead of the more common 15A variant.

 

Ah, good, I thought I wasn't going crazy. The ones I used had the IEC's and I'm convinced they had a fuse per outlet.

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Having seen (and repaired) several problems like this - the first thing to look at before you start swapping IC's and triacs about is the wiring to the front panel sockets.

 

If they are Betapack Mk 1's then they might well be of the batch that had terminal screws on the sockets not tightened to torque - and usually its the neutrals. Most often you can see the neutral core free of the socket - but sometimes its in situ but the plastic is crimped by the screw not the copper, they jusy need re-positioning.

 

Whilst your authorised repairer has the cover off - ask them to check the fuseholders too, this range of Beta's can destroy fuseholders occassionally (and yes - you can get replacements, they're just a pain to fit) and sometimes you can see it before they go.

 

Can't find your nearest Zero authorised repair centre? Ring Zero88 and ask Keith or Peter, they'll know

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