Neil Hampson Posted September 18, 2007 Share Posted September 18, 2007 I have a fairly old Jem Techofog machine with the standard remote and a DMX adaptor. There is nothing wrong with the machine or the unit, however I have been offered the use of a TechoHaze machine for a show, but there is no remote. The question is fairly simple, is the Jem remote (either the timer/manual version, or the DMX adaptor universal across the Jem/Martin range? I have looked on the Jem site, and a search on BR almost yeilded a result, but the link to the technical doc I needed was broken.As far as I know the Hazer has a 3 pin XLR connected as +15V supply, Ground and 0-10V analogue return. My machine has a 5 pin Din plug (but only 3 are connected) I don't mind making a XLR/Din convertor, but I don't want to blow up a perfectly good controller for the sake of a freebie hire. (I know that my controler gives a 0-10V control, I'm just not sure over the 15Vdc supply for the controller. Thanks in advance, Neil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisBogg Posted October 10, 2007 Share Posted October 10, 2007 Neil The dms remote should work with your technohaze to I think you will just need to adapt what ever it is currently on IE 5 pin XLR I think from last time I saw it to three pin XLR. The unit works on a 0-10v across pins 1 +2 on the techniohaze I think with some power for the DMX board coming down pin 3. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zonino Posted October 10, 2007 Share Posted October 10, 2007 do these links help Neil? technofog technohaze oops, just seen the date of your post... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Hampson Posted October 11, 2007 Author Share Posted October 11, 2007 Thanks Zonino for bumping the thread...I've managed to move on a bit and yes the TechnoFog remote works fine with the TechnoHAZE, I just needed a connector convertor to 3 pin XLR. However, I am now in a position of makinga new remote, mainly as I'm too tight to pay Martin nearly £100 for a new one...My electronics is a liitle rusty as it's been over 10 years since 'A' level pyhsics, so if any of the elecrtonics wizards can cast their eyes over the pic below I'd be very grateful before I blow something up. http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f86/neilhampson/0-10V.jpg As far as I can see the top idea is a bit overkill (I'm prone to over-engineer anything I do) but the bottom figure should work I think. I'm not really bothered about a ready LED or anything, it would be nice but I have no idea how it works. -Mods; Is there any way to re-name the thread slightly to reflect the DIY build? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bwaarp Posted December 21, 2008 Share Posted December 21, 2008 . However, I am now in a position of makinga new remote, mainly as I'm too tight to pay Martin nearly £100 for a new one...My electronics is a liitle rusty as it's been over 10 years since 'A' level pyhsics, so if any of the elecrtonics wizards can cast their eyes over the pic below I'd be very grateful before I blow something up. http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f86/neilhampson/0-10V.jpg As far as I can see the top idea is a bit overkill (I'm prone to over-engineer anything I do) but the bottom figure should work I think. I'm not really bothered about a ready LED or anything, it would be nice but I have no idea how it works. -Mods; Is there any way to re-name the thread slightly to reflect the DIY build? did you get any further with this as I've just picked up a jem techno haze, but it has a zr20 remote not the technohaze one, the zr20 has 4 wires but no plug, can I bodge this together, and if so, what wires go to which pin? cheers Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mutley Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 Very few op-amps can actually give a "rail-to-rail" output; eg: the minimum output voltage might be about 1.2v, and the maximum about 0.6v below positive supply. If you are using an op-amp in the circuit, you may want to consider using one with a rail-to-rail ouptut, or using a dual-rail supply (the supplies can be assymetrical, ie; +15v and -5v, but it's difficult to get a dual-rail supply from a single positive voltage! It would involve a more complex circuit than the control circuit itself!), otherwise the minimum output level will be about 12%. So a switch would be advisable to stop the haze as it wouldn't be possible to get ZERO flow on the analogue signal. I had a similar problem in developing a dimmer control signal voltage inverter to use Strand -10v gear with standard +10v gear... Quite often the simplest ideas are the best - go for the basic voltage divider circuit without the op-amp, as the hazer's input is probably fed straight into an op-amp anyway. The nearest resistor value to 660ohm is 680. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe White Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 1 Thing to remember you have to have above a certain level outputting to tell the unit too heat. As you will find that if you have a working remote in the techno haze and you unplug it the heat LED will flash and the unit will stop heating and stop haze, The unit will refuse to heat then if you do not add that into your circuit, Ta Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bwaarp Posted December 24, 2008 Share Posted December 24, 2008 er...you've lost me there... can I have this in english please ;-p Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mutley Posted December 24, 2008 Share Posted December 24, 2008 Basically, go with the simple circuit of just a fixed resistor (probably 680ohm (blue, grey, black)) and a variable, as shown previously. There is no need to over-complicate things by using an op-amp. If you experience any problems, explain them on here and I'm sure you'll receive some advice as to how to go about resolving them. And having used the simplest circuit, it won't be too big a deal to implement any minor changes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bwaarp Posted January 2, 2009 Share Posted January 2, 2009 as I think I mentioned, I have a zr20 remote, it has 4 wires (red, blue, black and yellow, any ideas which of these would go where? the technohaze has an XLR input, so I'm hoping that wiring the two togwther will spare me the ball ache of having to completely build a new remote.. cheers Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Light Sound Sid Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 Sorry to butt in on this thread, but our theatre has an old jem techno fog with a five pin din controller. Unfortunately the din connector stupidly got crushed under our iron! A replacement din plug has been found but we no longer know which wire goes were. I've searched and searched for a diagram to no avail. Can anyone help? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bwaarp Posted January 19, 2009 Share Posted January 19, 2009 ...tumbleweed blows by.... :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
niclights Posted January 19, 2009 Share Posted January 19, 2009 Sorry to butt in on this thread, but our theatre has an old jem techno fog with a five pin din controller. Unfortunately the din connector stupidly got crushed under our iron! A replacement din plug has been found but we no longer know which wire goes were. I've searched and searched for a diagram to no avail. Can anyone help?I'd call Jem service. I'm sure they would be happy to help: http://www.martin.com/service/contacts.asp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Hampson Posted January 20, 2009 Author Share Posted January 20, 2009 The newer Jem Technohaze came with a XLR3, which was wired as follows: 1 Ground2 Power (+15Vdc)3 Control Voltage return. I have a Technofog that has been converted from 5 pin DIN to XLR3. If you can give me a few days I can dig out the pinout of the convertor. It's no good to match the cable colours as Jem seem to just use any bits of 3-4-5 core thats lying around regardless of the core colours. I'm not sure what the extra cores are used for as all of the remotes I have used, be it the simple, standard one, DMX adaptor or the timer module have all used the 3 pin XLR, but I do remember that all 5 pins of the connector in the fogger was wired back to the PCB. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bwaarp Posted January 27, 2009 Share Posted January 27, 2009 The newer Jem Technohaze came with a XLR3, which was wired as follows: 1 Ground2 Power (+15Vdc)3 Control Voltage return. I have a Technofog that has been converted from 5 pin DIN to XLR3. If you can give me a few days I can dig out the pinout of the convertor. It's no good to match the cable colours as Jem seem to just use any bits of 3-4-5 core thats lying around regardless of the core colours. I'm not sure what the extra cores are used for as all of the remotes I have used, be it the simple, standard one, DMX adaptor or the timer module have all used the 3 pin XLR, but I do remember that all 5 pins of the connector in the fogger was wired back to the PCB. any further progress on this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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