Stu Posted February 7, 2003 Share Posted February 7, 2003 Hi Guys and Girls Just wondered what would be the best frost to use to try and tone down the halo effect you get when using gobo's in open white, without softing out the edges of the gobo to oblivion. Not having time to experiment properly, whats the best to use? I was looking at L258 or L410, but I've not got the time or money to buy it all and then experiment! Ta for any help! <_< Stu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryson Posted February 8, 2003 Share Posted February 8, 2003 No frost - use a donut.. (For the unitiated, a donut is a metal sheet with a smallish round hole in it that you place in the gel slot of a profile. You can make them yourself out of blackwrap, but it's better to buy a nice steel one. It sharpens up gobo projection a lot at the cost of reducing the light output a bit. It also gets rid of the halo) <_< http://www.theaterlighting.net/images/donuts.jpg (The donut is on the left.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest lightnix Posted February 8, 2003 Share Posted February 8, 2003 My swatch pad has disappeared into the maelstrom of paper that currently passes for my office (although things are set to improve this week - at last). I do remember some success with half / quarter / eighth Hamburg frost a few years ago. Try that and let us know how it works. Bryson is right about do-nuts. They do work, but they really kill the output. Make sure you have very clean lenses, reflectors and a good lamp line-up before you use them. Actually, a good lamp line up can do the trick too, just depends whether the spots you are using have that feature. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul J Need Posted February 9, 2003 Share Posted February 9, 2003 No frost - use a donut..QUOTE]<Paul nods> The problem however with donuts is that if the optics on profiles are knackered.... and in need of a holiday at the aligment rest home for some serious tweeking, all a donut will often do is just reduce the light level. So a donut can either solve the problem or, give you a BIG CLUE about the need to sort your optics out ( And no I don't mean the type located on the front of house bar) <_< so frost may be a better option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gareth Posted February 9, 2003 Share Posted February 9, 2003 Like other people, I'd agree with Bryson that a donut is the key to getting a good clean sharp image without any chromatic fringing. And they're also right that you need to have a decently-aligned lamp and fairly good optics, otherwise a donut won't really help, it'll just give you a different kind of crap beam! One thing that might be worth trying is the range of very light frosts that GAM produce (GamFusion) - they start at 10-10 (almost clear) up to 10-80 (almost opaque). I'm sure something from the very light end of the range would help to soten the edges of the pattern just enough to minimise any chromatic abberations, while still giving you a bit of definition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markus Posted February 22, 2003 Share Posted February 22, 2003 hi... you might like to try Rosco #132 or LEE254 ... both light/quarter frosts which work quite well to get rid off colour fringes ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu Posted February 22, 2003 Author Share Posted February 22, 2003 R132 sounds like a good idea, used R119 on a gig last week, which did the job of softening, without losing light output, quite well. Actually so well I've got some R119 in my maglite. I'll try R132 and see if I get an even better result. Stu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markus Posted February 22, 2003 Share Posted February 22, 2003 Actually so well I've got some R119 in my maglite hi stu... well... thats funky ;-) (I just dropped one of those clever little LED-modules in mine... haven't tried frost yet...) ;) CU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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