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Mounting a projector on a lighting bar


Ed_N

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the unicol style mounts always seem very dear, and also not designed for inverted operation. many I've seen have had a small hole drilled through the fittings and a pin inserted, otherwise the single allan screw fixing always seems a bit..... feeble?

 

This worries me. The unicol mounts MUST be used with a security bolt that passes straight through the outer collar, through the pole and out the other side to prevent it falling off. The allen screws are just there to steady the pole once the security bolt is pushed through.

 

The right mounts will be designed for inverted operation.

 

Jason

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This worries me too - unicol gets used as a painted and high quality version of good old kee clamps. I have seen plenty of unicol parts used inverted, using just the allen bolt - the through pin, or bolt is an obvious part of the 'proper' version - missing on ones made up of spare bits and pieces.
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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Guys,

 

I hope this fits within the rules... If you were to find a projector mount with 50mm truss clamp attached to the top and a universal fitment at the bottom (utilising the threaded bosses) what length of drop would you like to see on the pole?

Im asking the question as this may be a product we can look into having manufactured...

If its easier and tidier onthe forum please use the PM function to send me your thoughts on the ideal mount.

 

Regards

 

Chris Beesley

Product Manager

www.CPC.co.uk

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all you really need is a metal plate, a hook clamp & safety. Mount the clamp and safety on the plate, use a piece of paper for a template for the projectors mounting holes & drill corresponding holes in the plate and there you have it!!
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Hi Guys,

 

Im with Little DJ here - safety is the No.1 priority, hence my thinking behind a solution similar to the B-Tech mounts etc only manufactured with a 50mm half coupler instead of the ceiling plate. This would then give a flexible, universal solution...

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And that might well be something of use to us for some of the gigs we do, or for installs where maybe the client doesn't want the spend of a Unicol fitting, but the 50mm clamp.

 

A firm lock for pan and tilt, but that can be adjusted easily would be desireable, as well as the ability to get it fixed firmly to the bar. It might be preferable to use a half coupler instead of a hook clamp to get the solid fixing that they offer over hooks.

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I have used a universal ceiling bracket and put hook clampls on the mouting plate, with a shot ratchet around the projector and the mounting bracket, then safety over the bar and around the mounting you can be fairly secure with it, I think last one that we rigged a couple of weeks ago we had 3 points of safety.
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WORD of WARNING: If flying a Sanyo projector on a UNICOL bracket, the bolts that come with it from UNICOL are the correct length, any longer and with a slight over tightening, you can very easily kill the bolt socket as it is only made from brass (fairly malleable) and the bolt is likely to be made of steel, much stronger and so will strip the thread with over tightening. I would recommend keeping with UNICOL bits if you buy a UNICOL plate!

 

Just a footnote to timperret's word of warning, if you are using one of Sanyo's larger projectors, the xf20 or 45 of hd10 and similar the brass inserts are NOT even attached to the projector chasis! they are only set into the plastic body of the projector, and therefore while they may seem up to the job, they are prone to tearing out! I now prefer to only fly these projectors in a cradle as supplied by someone like QED and not to trust the older unicol brackets that just screw onto the bottom. One of my clients is so concerned about the danger of the inserts their projectors have been returned to sanyo for the addition of a steel plate inside the projector for added strength.

 

Otherwise I have seen plenty of "necessary bodges" for flying projectors, and the only method I have ever truly been comfortable with is a metal box or cage that surrounds the projector so that there is no chance of it falling out, which is then either hung from a proper drop arm and spiggot or from suitable span-set and shackles

 

Charlie

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