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Mounting a projector on a lighting bar


Ed_N

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Hello,

 

Anyone got any ideas as to how this could be done on the cheap? Even if I get a proper bracket they all seem to have mountings for a flat ceiling. I'm a bit worried that if I manage to modify a proper bracket so that it has G clamps on it that the bracket is unlikely to be exactly in the centre of gravity therefore the projector is going to tilt forwards or backwards. Or would I be able to tighten the G glamp sufficiently to stop this happening?

 

Or is the best solution to mount it to the ceiling and get a bracket that has a pole on it?

 

Any suggestions would be great!

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We built a shelf with a lip all around, bolted onto a horizontal bit of scaf pipe. Then use two more bit of scaf and appropriate scaf clamps to hang the shelf below the bar. Strap PJ to shelf and add suitable safeties to shelf and PJ to main bar.
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Is there any chance of using a cradle? If so, the projector can just sit in this and be hung by a g clamp on the cradles yoke to the LX bar.

 

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j267/martinhoddinott/projectorcradle.jpg

 

EDIT: img sorted

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Not particularly on the cheap, but the Unicol system (more information here) has the ability to put a hook clamp on the hanging end, instead of a ceiling mount. You will need one of their hook clamps (TM5) and the relevant mounting for your projector.

 

There is even a relevant thread here, that you presumably missed in your search :(.

 

HTH

 

PN

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Having had a look at my projector mount, which is a unicol style one, it has a "base" plate at the top of the tube designed to bolt to the ceiling, which appears to be able to take a clamp either side. Usin M10s I think, 2 g clamps could be attached and then the mount hung from that.
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Thanks for the suggestions. Sorry for the duplicate posting - believe it or not I did search but couldn't find that other one!

 

Looks like we'll have to splash out on a proper mount - having a look at some of the products listed above I think most of the celing mount plates at the top of the pole are big enough to attach clamps to.

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Is there any chance of using a cradle? If so, the projector can just sit in this and be hung by a g clamp on the cradles yoke to the LX bar.

 

http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j267/martinhoddinott/projectorcradle.jpg

 

A note that if you're using a tray style cradle like this (rather than a UNICOL style fitting) the projector should probably be safety cabled. I just don't trust them when you're angling down from a lighting bar! :(

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A note that if you're using a tray style cradle like this (rather than a UNICOL style fitting) the projector should probably be safety cabled. I just don't trust them when you're angling down from a lighting bar!

Whoops. should have said that :( Sorry

 

If you're using a projector with a security attachment, to stop it being nicked, then I normally attach a safety to this. While they aren't rated, they take a lot of force to remove (not that I've ever tried to nick one you understand :) , but I couldn't remove the security plate). Alternatively use the unicon style mounts, or a cradle with a complete cage to enclose the projector, such as this.

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I have worked with many 'botch' projector flying systems in theatres I have worked in, companies I have worked for, but none compares to spending the cash on a UNICOL, it allows easy, fast and safe flying of a projector. Flying frames (such as for Barco or the QED ones for Sanyos) are amazing, especially if double stacking and flying (=nightmare!). But for most applications the UNICOL will do nicely.

 

I would recommend Pete's hook, pole, with PSU. If you want a different length pole for a day, there are plenty of UNICOL stockists for corporate stuff all over the country to sub in off. If you change your projector, simply change the PSU.

 

WORD of WARNING: If flying a Sanyo projector on a UNICOL bracket, the bolts that come with it from UNICOL are the correct length, any longer and with a slight over tightening, you can very easily kill the bolt socket as it is only made from brass (fairly malleable) and the bolt is likely to be made of steel, much stronger and so will strip the thread with over tightening. I would recommend keeping with UNICOL bits if you buy a UNICOL plate!

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If you want to do it on the cheap, then we have knocked together a few cradles out of scrap wood for the in-house projectors which work very well. Just plonk 2 hook clamps on the top and cut holes for fans/cable entries etc. This works fine as the units are very lightweight, and we strap them in for additional security. Finish with safeties through the cradle yoke and you're done.

 

David

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In the past we've used:

 

1. proper projector cieling brackets with hook clamps bolted where you would normally bolt to cieling

 

2. a home-made wooden shelf with a boom arm clamp on either side

 

obviously the first was much better but the second works ok (doesnt look as nice unless you make it out of metal)

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The band we had in last night (Magic) had a nice simple homemade bracket. A wooden plinth, with edges that stopped the projector falling out. Bungies over the top, and a safety bond on the frame, and through the handle of the projector. The support was double ender g clamps, with one end cut off, and drilled to attache to the frame.

 

the unicol style mounts always seem very dear, and also not designed for inverted operation. many I've seen have had a small hole drilled through the fittings and a pin inserted, otherwise the single allan screw fixing always seems a bit..... feeble?

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Btech do a lot of projector mounts and fixings to attach to the uncol system (the most common called a "Unicollar"!!) if you're on a budget and have a smaller projector - otherwise use unicol throughout - it is quite simply the best....
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