Jivemaster Posted March 3, 2006 Share Posted March 3, 2006 As a Gobo, Take some shim steel or brass, clean it then spray paint both sides. Then draw the outline of each element of the design with a Sharp (scalpel, scriber etc) Then etch in Ferric Chloride with bubbling for agitation til the bits all fall away. Then wash in paint stripper. Alternatively Look in Maplin (or like) for some photo sensitive etch resist spray (aerosol emulsion) and work from an artwork and put resist on one side and spray paint on the other. RS sell shim steel and brass but then the price^^^ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerlines2k Posted March 6, 2006 Share Posted March 6, 2006 I would have said Thin lithoplate and a stanley knife would be best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJUnreal Posted March 7, 2006 Share Posted March 7, 2006 I've seen the old 'coke can and a stanley' done many times... seems to work... You gotta be careful though... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peternewman Posted March 7, 2006 Share Posted March 7, 2006 I've done simple gobos with drinks cans before. The challenge seems to be to try and find steel ones, as most of them are aluminium now (I think I've got that the right way round). I've drilled holes and then filed between them before. I also tried using a CNC mill the school had, with the can sandwiched between two bits of plastic to stop it bending up. I can't remember how well it worked in the end (I think it turned out okay), but I know I has issues with the sandwich moving when it was being milled as it was only held down with double sided tape. Also you will find most of them seem to have a layer of plastic on them, or maybe it was just the paint etc on the outside, but they certainly used to burn nicely for a few minutes when you first used them. HTH PN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Hampson Posted March 7, 2006 Share Posted March 7, 2006 I have been makinggobos for many years using standard tin foil and an extemely sharp scalpel. I can produce most images onto gobos down to B size but M is asking a bit much. The trick is to fold the edge of the gobo to make it strong enough to hold it's own weight in the frame. the 'tags'need to be a bit bigger as well as the foil is obviously not as strong as Stainless etched. A foil gobo will last well over 50-100 hours in a prelude or Sill 15. If the OP still needs the fame gobo I have one to fit an 'A' size frame, I'll try to dig it out if required. To give you an idea of the gobos that you can do please see the attached photo of the 'Jack and the Beanstalk' tab warmer, this was done in 'B' size for a Pat23. (you can't do this with a coke can) C:\Documents and Settings\hampsone\Desktop\From Phone\gobo1.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomo Posted March 7, 2006 Share Posted March 7, 2006 C:\Documents and Settings\hampsone\Desktop\From Phone\gobo1.jpgTerribly sorry, but we can't access your hard disk from the Internet.You'll need to host the pictures somewhere, either on your own webspace or an online photo album such as Photobucket Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Hampson Posted March 7, 2006 Share Posted March 7, 2006 Yep, thats me all over, read the manual only after you've broke it...I'll dump it to my Yahell Photo album tonight and post the image Sorry about that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beware Posted March 8, 2006 Share Posted March 8, 2006 I find Red Bull cans are the best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Alcock Posted March 8, 2006 Author Share Posted March 8, 2006 Thanks for all the helpful replies guys. I've tried can cutting but it's a bit fiddly, especially the curves. I'm not sure how well thin ally would stand up in a SourceFour either. I called a local printer friend today, and he's put by some old printing plates for me to try. He reckons they're too stiff to be alloy and probably steel. I've dug out some ancient ferric chloride PCB etchant from the shed and am going to experiment in the next few days. If I have a breakthrough I'll post the results! Cheers, Pete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zonino Posted March 9, 2006 Share Posted March 9, 2006 In the past I've used foil takeaway tins and a stanley knife (well, usually a scalpel!) although these are becoming harder and harder to find! (last time I rang 3 takeaways before I found one that didnt use plastic! then they kindly threw 3 clean ones in for me! no faffing about washing them!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Hampson Posted March 10, 2006 Share Posted March 10, 2006 As promised, second time lucky please find a few photos of some of the gobos I've cut for shows in the last year or so... Most are for a Patt23, the two colour window was used in a pair of Prelude 16/30s Tabwarmer from this years local Panto (Prelude onto green tabs)http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f86/neilhampson/Tabwarmer.jpgTwo colour twin gobo, (2 x Prelude16/30) the photo doesn't do the resultant image any justicehttp://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f86/neilhampson/Gobos/StainGlassPreludeX2.jpghttp://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f86/neilhampson/Gobos/StainGlassPic.jpgPlayboy Bunny (Patt23)http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f86/neilhampson/Gobos/PlayboyPatt23.jpgJazzclub logo (Patt23)http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f86/neilhampson/Gobos/JazzLogoPatt23.jpg'An Evening With Impact' Show logohttp://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f86/neilhampson/Gobos/ImpactPrelude.jpgThis is a copy of one og the DHA gobos, looks fantastic on set... (Patt23)http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f86/neilhampson/Gobos/ChurchNightPatt23.jpg (Edited to fix image links) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick S Posted March 11, 2006 Share Posted March 11, 2006 If you go the CAD/CAM route, you don't even need a laser cutter - you can use a standard CAD/CAM milling machine, which I've seen in quite a few schools (usually "technology" schools), along with a thin plate of aluminium - in this scenario the gobo and gobo holder are one piece. The obvious downside to this is that if you're using it in something like a Strand Prelude, you can't adjust the gobo's position by rotating. In much the same way, the material prohibits patterns that require incredibly thin sections. Simple text works extremey well though, as I can attest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Hampson Posted March 13, 2006 Share Posted March 13, 2006 Fame logo as promised, Peter, It's in the post today... http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f86/neilhampson/Gobos/Fame3.jpg http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f86/neilhampson/Gobos/Fame1.jpg http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f86/neilhampson/Gobos/Fame2.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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