adam2

No they are NOT carbon filament lamps, despite the claim made by the supplier. "carbon filament" these days seems to mean "old looking" and NOT made of carbon. The lamps are passable imitations of early types of tungsten filament lamp, in which the considerable length of filament is arranged in a zig zag formation up and down the bub. In modern tungsten lamps the filament is coiled and much more compact. True carbon filament lamps are now hard to find and often very expensive. A search on fleabay will find hundreds of so called carbon filament lamps, almost none of which actually contain a carbon filament. In years gone by, carbon lamps were a cheaper alternative to tungsten filament lamps and were favoured when theft or breakage was likely. True carbon filament lamps are very resistant to vibration and until recently were used on high speed newspaper printing presses, for lead lamps, and for lighting railway signals on London Underground. They also made good low intensity radiant heat sources for rearing chicks and other small creatures. The Phillips ones that were made until recently often sell for nearly £50 ! And I can remember when they sold for "two bob"

They should be fine. The only drawback is that they are rather wasteful of electricity, and not very durable. Unlikely to matter much for short term use on stage, but does limit opportunities for later re-use.

You will probably need to buy the bulbs. The true incandescent filament types can be dimmed by any standard dimmer, you will probably need a minimum of two lamps per dimmer. The similar looking LED lamps can not be dimmed, in general. These lamps are often desired for decorative effect in the home, therefore you might be able to sell them afterwards. Alternatively, someone involved in the production might be willing to buy the lamps at their own expense and lend them for the production, and take them home afterwards. For later re-use d0m3stically, the LED type are often preferable due to reduced energy use and longer life.

A plan being considered near here is for one representative only from each relevant group to walk up to the memorial and place a wreath. Having placed the wreaths, those attending will stand facing the memorial, but keeping two meters apart. After observing the customary silence, a small band will then play suitable music. Members of the public not representing any particular group are welcome to attend, but will be asked to keep further away then is the norm.

Both ozone and UV-C are of proven effectiveness but are far from a magic cure. Both are dangerous if misapplied, and ineffective in some conditions. Alleged anti viral fog MIGHT work but I would be very doubtful indeed about most such products, especially from on-line suppliers of doubtful reputation. Chlorine dioxide is an effective sterilising compound, but is very toxic and damaging to furnishings. I doubt that any such product cures AIDS, hepatitis, impotence, autism, cancer, or poor exam results.

LED lighting has many advantages over low pressure sodium lamps, including lower energy use, better quality lighting, better optical control and longer lamp life. I am however surprised that it meets with approval from astronomers. The almost monochromatic sodium light is readily removed with filters fitted to telescopes. The broader spectrum from LEDs even if of lower intensity, and even without any blue, ant be effectively removed. Lighting near observatories really needs to be low pressure sodium, which is sadly no longer an option.

So far as is known, no one anywhere in the world, now makes these lamps. The long run up time and almost monochromatic deep orange/yellow light makes such lamps a most improbable choice for production lighting. If however your venue has any low pressure sodium lamps in car parks, loading bays or similar places, or if you are involved in any other business that uses these lamps, time to either buy some spares or consider LED alternatives. Some stockists may still hold limited stocks, but production has ceased AFAIK. Historically low pressure sodium lamps were used for special effects in film studios. Similar to todays "green screen" techniques but with orange sodium light instead of green. The pure almost monochromatic light and the high intensity from modest power consumption and limited heat production was useful.

I lit my home largely in red, at least for outdoor lights and those indoor lamps that are noticeable from outside. Mainly red LED "filament" lamps, about 20 used in outdoor mains voltage festoon, and a few in the bathroom, toilet, spare bedroom etc. Very similar to the "NHS blue" display in weeks gone by, but simply substituting red lamps for blue. These new coloured LED "filament" are very impressive and produced a striking effect for only 4 watts per lamp. Subjectively brighter than a 60 watt red coloured incandescent. Several brands are available, I favour those manufactured by BELL lighting.

Agree, 0 to 10 volt is very common for architectural lighting, including these ceiling panels. Operating voltages vary a lot, there seems to be no standard.

Ask a suitably experienced person to check the power supply into the dimmer, this may be a three phase supply with only two phases working and one phase not. There may be a blown fuse or defective connection, a suitably experienced person can then either correct this or send for an electrician. There is no point in calling a dimmer service technician if the fault is in the power supply into the dimmer. I would suggest that the experienced person should use an approved type of test lamp and not a test meter. High impedance meters can give misleading results. If all three phases are present into the dimmer, then double check that there is still no output on 4 circuits. Are there any intermediate plugs and sockets between the dimmers and the lanterns ? that could be accidently unplugged ? Are there fuses on the dimmer ? double check that these are sound, by testing or by swapping them for the fuses in working channels. Make certain that the fuses are the correct sort. If none of the above, then yes call a dimmer service company.

For a large or complex building I agree that a suitably experienced HVAC contractor should be asked for a quote. DIY is in my view reasonable for a small or simple venue, I did one years ago and AFAIK the installation is still in use. Rather than one or two large extract fans that might produce excessive airflow or be too loud, I installed 16 d0m3stic extract fans. Wired as one circuit of 6 fans and another circuit of 10 fans thereby giving 3 levels of ventilation. Eight fans each side of the building at high level. This was a church hall used for small stage productions, wedding receptions, sunday school, and meetings or lectures of all sorts. Remember that extracted air has to be replaced by fresh air from outside and that this air may need to be heated in cold weather, in the above situation, hot air curtains were installed over external doors total loading was about 20Kw. I stress the need for expert involvement for all but small and simple venues.

Or simply upgrade the lighting, with chandelier type fittings this can be done very cheaply. Simply replace the existing lamps with higher output LED lamps. Or obtain a couple of cheap LED floods, plug these into existing socket outlets and direct them upwards to give an indirect light reflected from the ceiling.

Yes, I expect better standards of ventilation to be expected in all but the smallest of public spaces. Decades ago, William Sugg and company made a dedicated gas fired hot air heater for smaller theatres, cinemas and the like. This was designed to supply 100% filtered fresh air, heated as needed, to all public areas. Use of these units was said to greatly improve public health as it ensured fresh air. The odd large or grand house was fitted with one of these. This resulted in the development of the "halcyon" forced hot air heater for the d0m3stic market. Digressing briefly to meat processing plants, these often have almost no fresh air so as to economise of refrigeration costs. Many such facilities misuse walk in fridges as work spaces.

UV black light lamps are NOT effective against viruses and bacteria. These lamps which are black or deep violet in colour when not lit produce near ultraviolet light only just beyond the visible range. They have many uses in the entertainment industry as they cause fluorescent pigments to glow. Also used to detect forged banknotes, altered documents, urine stains, and hidden laundry marks on hotel linens. If used with common sense, blacklight lamps are reasonably safe, but they are NOT effective against viruses, or bacteria. To kill viruses and other nasties, germicidal lamps are needed, and preferably ones of reputable brand and obtained direct from a recognised UK based lamp wholesaler.

The higher wattage germicidal lamps work fine at several meters mounting height, a prolonged exposure makes up for a low intensity.There used to be a design of fitting that used a pair of 36 watt lamps, intended to be wall mounted and pivoted. Lit 24/7 and directed upwards during working hours, and downwards outside of working hours. Manually adjusted by a pole with hook on the end. The person doing the adjusting would be briefly exposed, as would be any night watchman or fire patrol, but no one worried back in the day. Shadowing would be a problem, so germicidal lamps are NOT a cure all but are a relatively cheap "extra line of defence" In the USA, d0m3stic clothes dryers often contain a small germicidal lamp to sterilise the laundry as it dries. A precaution unknown d0m3stically in the UK, though some industrial or coin-op dryers do contain such lamps. I am only aware of one accident involving these lamps, and that was deliberate misuse rather than a true accident.

Less dangerous than X rays, so precautions could be slightly less strict. Presence detection that latches off, NOT self resetting. And a time switch. And perhaps warning strobe lights.

If germicidal lamps are to be used to disinfect an auditorium, then fool proof systems are needed to prevent exposure. One way would be a combination of PIR presence detectors and intruder alarm contacts on the doors, but wired such any triggering of these devices causes the lamps to "latch off" and require a key or code to reset. No question of the lamps coming on again if someone goes to sleep. As a THIRD line of defence, use a time switch to only energise the lamps only when the premises should be empty.

UVA light is effective against the virus, but the light is DANGEROUS to skin and eyes. The lamps that emit this light look like fluorescent tubes, but completly clear without any phosphor coating. Generally known as "germicidal" lamps. They are widely used to sterilise water, for drinking, or to control Legionela in cooling towers, or to improve the health of fish in aquiria. The lamps are inexpensive and available from all good lamp suppliers. Despite the danger to skin and eyes, germicidal lamps may be safely applied in at least two ways. Firstly germicidal lamps may be installed in air handling equipment to disinfect the air as it passes through into the auditorium. Care must be taken that persons servicing the equipment or replacing the air filters cant be dangerously exposed. A very small spyhole is often considered to be acceptable, for simple visual confirmation that the lamps are lit. Alternatively, germicidal lamps may be installed to light an auditorium or other space when empty. Careful design is required to ensure that the lamps cant be lit with anyone in the area, and will be automatically extinguished if anyone enters unexpectedly. Both the above are accepted technologies in food and pharmaceutical factories. Years ago I installed numerous germicidal lamps in a hospital laundry, not to treat the actual laundry but to sterilise laundry hampers and trolleys. O/T trivia, years ago BR used ultraviolet light to sterilise the water supply in buffet cars and restuarants on trains. The water tanks were filled from a drinking water supply, but extra treatment at the point of use was considered prudent.

I don't expect much fundamental change in LED technology. Cheaper, yes due to mass production. Better dimming at low levels, yes due to improved control circuits. Better colour, yes a bit but mixing say 7 colours is always to cost more than 3. More efficient, yes as old stock works it way through the supply chain. LED lamps are available right now with 200 lumens per watt efficiency, and improvements much beyond that seem unlikely.

I am pretty sure the Strand Sunset dimmers I used in the 1960/70s would dim white LED lamps perfectly well as they would reduce voltage without adding any harmonics (unlike electronic dimmers) - shame we can't try it for real! See http://www.theatrecr...lighting_69.pdf for the sort of dimmer I am talking about. I rather doubt it. Most LEDs use a switched mode power supply that gives constant current into the LED array at varying supply voltage, reducing the supply voltage will give constant light down to a critical point at which point the lamp either goes out or starts to flash on/off. Many types of LED driver are multi voltage and will give full output down to about 90 volts (Japanese 100 volt nominal supply, less 10%)

Or what about an array of 12 volt MR16 style LED lamps or 230 volt GU10 style LED lamps ? These are now very cheap and purchase of a number affordable. Seven lamps would fit neatly. A choice of lighting levels could achieved by selective switching, 1, or 3, or all 7 lamps lit would give three well spaced lighting levels. Mount the lamp holders on metal mesh rather than on a solid surface so as to give plenty of ventilation. Earthed if mains voltage.

Don't know whom makes these, but they DO exist. Used for large Christmas lighting displays in which complex effects are obtained by dimming numerous circuits each of which has only a modest load. Usually 120 volt for the American market, but I have seen a German one for 220/240 volts. Each channel protected by a 2 amp mini fuse and input via a 16 amp blue ceeform.

I agree that any improvised way of trying to get THREE charged cells by using a charger that only charges in pairs is doomed to failure. Sooner or later some cells will be charged twice, or different types will be discharged in series, or charged and not charged cells be used in series. Simply buy a charger that handles three cells, or preferably multiples of three at the same time. I am not familiar with the product to in an earlier post, but it looks good.

Thanks for the suggestions, I think that I will go for the cheap and simple Thoman DMX controller suggested upthread. I have tried the remote controlled LED lamps and been disappointed with the output, and the poor reliability. Also have a couple of LED PARs.

Far too many buttons ! The Thoman product looks much more suitable.