Jump to content

Don Allen

Regular Members
  • Posts

    1,197
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

Posts posted by Don Allen

  1. Before you start, make sure it does not have a fibreglass lead.

    You remove the lead screw drive. There is a nut that is removed by a set of flat nose pliers as it is a slotted nut, hold the focus knob when turning the nut. The metal leadscew bearing or support is held in place with three small self tappers. If there is a spacer on the front of the lead screw, held in place with a circlip, make sure it goes back in the same place, as it stops the lampholder getting too close to the front lens. Once you have removed the lead screw you can pivot the lampholder sideways to get at the screws underneath. It is a while since I have replaced a lampholder, I may take out the other non lead screw side as well. I place all of the parts in a line as I remove them to make sure it is reassembled in the correct order, as there are also washers.

  2. Would a reflector be more appropriate if you want to control the spill, to redirect it into the main part of the lantern ? Is your LED source an encapsulated LED which is a lens with a beam angle or a small LED COB that has 180 degree beam angle with lots of spill ?
  3. Have a look at this
    , he uses an Arduino for transmit or controller and an Arduino for receiver so you can see the whole picture but you only need to build the receiver. Lady Ada has good coverage of NeoPixel The Magic of NeoPixels . The DMX receive address is embedded in the DmxSerialRcv code but if you look at my article Arduino DMX Demultiplexer for Analogue Dimmers I wrote a piece of code or sketch to read in DIP switches to create a variable startaddress which I put into the serial receive code on the analogWrite lines as an externally set DMX address.
  4. I was impressed with a 400W LED followspot when in Moscow a few years back, so think a 300W would not be bright enough. It may be an easier starting point to choose a LED Engine, but seeing as you have this as a starting point, allow for an upgrade to 4ooW in your calculations. For cooling, the larger the fan, the quieter it is and one supplier of quiet fans is quietpc in the UK.

     

    You may have to mount your power supply underneath the lamp body. The one suggested is suitable for mounting direct and can be dimmed which is handy.

  5. I was told the Patt 263/264 were designed to take a base up T4 P28S lamp. Nowadays most theatre lamps are burn any position, but in the earlier versions they had restricted burning angle. I cannot find a lamp catalogue that states the burning position of a T4 lamp. A search of my lighting library revealed in A Method Of Lighting The Stage by Stanley McCandless, fourth edition 1958, on page 41 figure 8: Ellipsoidal Reflector Spotlight shows a base up, medium pre-focus lamp, with less angle than the Patt 263/264. This may support what I was told. Thanks to the Internet Archive you can read a copy of this book. In checking my reference I found this Internet Archive link in Theatrecrafts Bookshelf
  6. I have worked on earlier LSC Lighting desks that had the fader boards connected by a serial ribbon cable string to the main processor board. One fix for when fader boards stopped working was to reseat the serial connectors after spraying with CO contact cleaner. In extreme cases you had to solder the wires to the connector. You may have a connector problem even without moving the desk because of connector corrosion. Might be worth trying a reseat ?
  7. Another option is to make a delayed switch on relay using a heady duty relay, such as an Omron, with a DC coil, use a capacitor to delay the coil switch on, use different RC values to stagger switch on times, make as modules with times marked on putside. If you do not have DC control volts, use a suitably rated X2 cap as a compact DC power supply so they can be ac modules.
  8. When the Garrick Theatre My link in Guildord, Western Australia was rewired a few years ago, the heritage advisor wanted all of the old external lighting removed, so we suggested having it replaced with IP65 RGB LED tape under the eaves and small 10W LED floods put in under the eaves to light the pathways. We are able to set the lighting to suit a particular play. Definitely no fast scrolling displays, to suit the heritage look of the building.
  9. As this BR post in 2011 says Megabar No Sound not all functions are available on DMX.

     

    Sorry, read the manual wrong, there is a Flash channel for each mode, which I did not read as Strobe.According to the manual Sound should be at the top end of Channel 1, maybe different firmware version ?

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.