Tomo

You won't get that from a mains dimmable retrofit LED lamp, as none of the 2-wire dimmable mains LED retrofit lamps are physically capable of dimming to and from black. The lamps will always snap on and snap off, and most will "popcorn" as well, as manufacturing tolerances (and degradation over time) mean each lamp switches on (and off) at slightly different times and levels. Reverse-phase/trailing-edge (mosfet/IGBT) is usually better than forward-phase (SCR/Triac), but never anywhere near as good as tungsten. The only way to get a good bottom end in LED is to use 'proper' LED drivers that take hot power and a separate dimming control signal. The 'simplest' is to use a load of 'standard' LED Pars, but that's obviously not feasible for many chandeliers. There are a few retrofit lamps that take hot power and a control signal via radio or the existing load wiring, those are the ones to look for. For example, the ETC ArcSystem lamps are wonderful, especially the fade-to-warm version. As you've currently got a dimmer installation should be pretty easy, you just remove the existing dimmer and replace it with the ArcSystem driver box, and replace the lamps with the ArcSystem lamps. The driver is DMX controlled and provides the 24VDC and control signal to the lamps - 6 to 30 lamps per circuit, depending on model.

"Advanced Lighting Heuristic" is a very strange term. That makes it sound like they don't know that there's actual science involved (mostly biology). ETC Eos, Cobalt, ColorSource, and even Smartfade ML consoles have had internal "absolute" colour for calibrated colour mixing for fixtures with arbitrary emitters for many years. It's the ETC Desire and Source Four LED fixtures that pretty much created the need for it. The ETC system uses actual ScienceTM of human vision and measurements of real fixtures, and is quite accurate for fixtures that have been measured. I wonder what algorithm LightFactory is using though, because that result makes very little sense to me. Adding 70% UV for any "White" is just plain wrong, so it'd be very interesting to find out how they got that! It sounds like they just position emitters around an arbitrary Hue circle, which is a very poor approximation. It would be nice if they follow ANSI E1.54 - 2015, though I somehow doubt they have.

There is, and he turned it off because he was confused about other issues.

Condemn the LED Par until a competent person has had a chance to inspect it. Seriously. If it's leaking enough to affect a monitor, it's probably Pin 1 so a splitter won't do much and the voltages may be dangerous. I've seen quite a few cheap and nasty LED Pars playing silly buggers with Pin 1 (shield). Sometimes dangerously so! Even better, send it to Clive! I'd be interested to see what's inside too :)

Yesterday's RAIB report is very similar, regarding a tube driver who left the doors open between two stations for 56 seconds off 'full speed' running. A passenger pulled the alarm, but that doesn't stop a tube train, only alerts the driver so they continued on until the next station regardless. It was very lucky that the train was almost empty. If it had happened on a busy time/section then somebody would almost certainly have fallen out. BBC: https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-london-48936731 RAIB report: https://www.gov.uk/government/news/report-062019-train-travelling-with-doors-open-on-the-jubilee-line?utm_source=3ed976bc-6e62-4b0e-a947-0b508fe045b8&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=govuk-notifications&utm_content=immediate

Very bad idea, as the slower curves mean large (but not huge) fault currents can flow for much longer, increasing the risk of fire. The wiring must be designed for the longer & larger fault currents. It is very difficult to justify them. I'd suggest no more than 4 luminaires on a 10A circuit. If 9 isn't tripping every time then you might be ok with 6. Very important lesson: LED fixtures will hit inrush and RCD leakage current limits long before they get close to the nominal power limit of the supply.

TMB and Link make a wide variety: https://tmb.com/proplex-powerdata/ https://linkitaly.com/products/eurocable/hybrid-cables/ I'd suggest getting Power/Ethernet instead of just Power/DMX if the price difference isn't much, as Cat5e/6 would give you two DMX runs, or a lot of other things (VGA, HDMI etc) with the appropriate adapters. Or Ethernet of course.

For small PoE, I use the Netgear "xS108P" 8-port PoE switches - 4 PoE, 4 normal. GS108P and FS108P. It's 77mm wider than the 5-port GS105 but otherwise identical - basically the width of the three extra RJ45 ports. While the power brick is slightly larger, remember that it removes the need for the DMX>Ethernet box power brick, so you save space (and a socket!) overall.

2-wire dimmable LED simply doesn't dim fully - ever. (It's effectively impossible.) For "proper" theatrical dimming of LED you need hot power and a control signal, or DC drivers which is effectively the same thing. There's a published dimming performance summary here: http://www.etcconnect.com/Support/Articles/Source-Four-Mini-LED-Dimming-Performance.aspx It's about 20% to full. The tungsten variety dims perfectly of course.

Custom gobos are pretty cheap these days from the likes of Goboland, Rosco et al. The cost is in the setup - first one might be £30 to £50, but further copies cost about the same as standard gobos. Ok, if you want the gobo today or tomorrow or you want a glass one it's a bit pricey, but a steel gobo in a week or two is cheap.

Have you tried contacting Martin directly? This page has a list of the numbers and email addresses. They should be able to help, although I've not managed to find the Magnum 1000 on their site - Magnum 800 seems the closest that is still available.