Yorkie

22 hours ago, xllx said:

I was originally planning to go with the lycra sock plan for the multi, and might make up some custom spiders with white PVC cable and paint the 16A ceeforms white!

If it helps, I think these are the least blue (non-black) 16A connectors I've seen. Might be slightly grey though Gewiss GW62004h

I'm not familiar with them but it's not a CLIFFCON is it?

http://www.k-edwards.co.uk/index.html

Off the shelf protective cages: https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/categories/lighting-luminaires-protective-wire-grilles

 

Edit: realise they're not big enough for the ZX3 but hopefully might help someone else down the line

 

Your problem sounds much more like it would be caused by overdriving, some form of inaccessible limiting might be your best option.

Haven't done anything similar but to keep it simple, unless you need them to have adjustable focus, or anywhere near their original brightness (and thus want to faff around with cooling etc), I think I'd find a brass Bayonet Cap lampholder and get an ordinary 15W+ LED lamp in your chosen colour temperature. Easy to try out and see what you think. Other potential easy option is to insert a small LED floodlight within, could be mounted just on some all purpose fixing band. The advantage of something like a big old fresnel is there's plenty of space inside. The caveat is they may have asbestos in their construction; take care.

The British Standard for 5a round pin plugs was withdrawn around 2015 (if memory serves)

BS546:1950 is still current https://shop.bsigroup.com/ProductDetail/?pid=000000000030001587

Forgive the correction, but Neutrik appear to do more than three: here's a couple more that Neutrik claim to be switchcraft-pinout compatible, and they look to be standard-D cutouts:

• NC6FSD-L-1 - https://www.mouser.c...xNIwkoaGQ%3D%3D
• NC6MSD-L-1 - https://www.mouser.c...sYzFIWA0A%3D%3D

My bad, I was looking at neutrik.com rather than .co.uk which wasn't showing anything bigger than 5 pin on the pages for D and DL

Looks like Neutrik only do three connectors with the switchcraft pinout, and the panel female isn't a standard D cutout.

 

NC6FSP-1 https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/?qs=6LylQoPC2SvPCpEKuaRfRQ%3D%3D

NC6MSXX https://www.pennelcomonline.com/en/Neutrik-Male-6-Pole-Connector-NC6MSXX/m-9719.aspx

NC6FSXX https://www.pennelcomonline.com/en/Neutrik-Female-6-Pole-Connector-NC6FSXX/m-9326.aspx

 

Less than ideal I know; one option would be to make some up some short adaptor leads and then attach them to the required panel with a P-clip to save them going walkies https://cpc.farnell.com/pro-elec/pelb0195/p-clip-nylon-6-35mm-black-100/dp/CB21879

My very strange supplier locally has tonnes of odd stuff. no 500w r7s, but they have got 300w.

 

and some interesting LED dimmable ones.

 

https://www.lamportillallt.se/sv/sok/r7s

The 500W was replaced by the 400W with a similar lumen output a few years back, the 150 with 120, etc

So the LIA press release says

Linear Halogen R7s lamps over 2,700 lumens

will be out from Oct '21 yet the government's page of assorted words says

HL R7 halogens will remain available on the market

and the ALD wanted to keep

K Class linear Floods

 

Is there a difference between R7 and R7s? haven't worked it out myself in 10+ years

Are K Class the same or something else?

 

I realise this won't affect d0m35t1c floodlights as they tend to rust themselves to pieces anyway necessitating fixture replacement. 2700lm probably means everything over 120W is gone. Is this the death of the cheap dimmable temporary houselight?

I don't know much about business, or the organisations in question but it does seem rather an odd move. SFL do way more than just sound and aren't just a d&b house

How do they test lighting circuits with out destroying dom3st1c dimmers?

 

On Site Guide says to either temporarily disconnect them or join L & N together and test between that and the CPC.

It's probably wise to use a lower voltage too...

 

Blummin nuisance. In an ideal world you test the whole of a lighting circuit, which is fine if all that involves is switching on all the lights and taking a few BC/ES/etc lamps out of their fittings. In practice, if you've got a combination of ELV halogen with transformers, fluorescent fittings with ballasts, fittings integrating LEDs and some dimmers it's going to be a long process to do a L-N IR test that goes beyond the switch. For an EICR it becomes a limitation. Same happens with other buildings and installations; I have seen church building EICR's done by companies who touched nothing more than 3m from the floor. Problem comes writing out an Electrical Installation Certificate for a board change; Limitations aren't strictly acceptable

I'm on my second CT100, and I probably only used the first for 2-3 hours a month but it did travel about 50,000 miles in a toolbox over 7 or 8 years so I can live with that

As above, grab a Berry CT100, and adaptors for 1 pair XLR5. Yes you have to press a button every time you've plugged in a new cable but given the price and its simplicity yet the very useful intermittency feature I don't think you can go wrong. I use something similar to the OP for NL4s

I have no relevant experience to share but it does sound like rather a challenging scenario. Is this the screen in question? Streetview

Looking to buy used Litedeck

 

1 piece of 2m x 1m rectangle

1 piece of 1m x 1m square

 

Can collect in Northern England. Appearance of top not critical as likely to be covering

 

Please drop me a message including your price and location. Thanks

Looks like the font 'Neon Tubes'

Having unpacked a new X32 Rack a couple of weeks back it comes with a sticker over the AES50 ports imploring you to use an STP cable

I have nothing to recommend personally but these may be options:

 

https://www.designacable.com/site/rubber-bounce-box-mains-disto-termination-junction-box.html

The trapezoid one is pretty keenly priced

 

Thomann have several pre-built options albeit with knock-off connectors. At <£50 each they look pretty cost effective

https://www.thomann.de/gb/adam_hall_pro_port_4_pp.htm

https://www.thomann.de/gb/botex_pts_4_power_twist_splitter.htm

https://www.thomann.de/gb/eurolite_sab_42x_power_split_box.htm

 

genuine Neutriks £69 https://cpc.farnell.com/transcension/powercon-distributor/powercon-distributor-1-in-4-out/dp/DP33301

Can't work out whether the camera you're referring to uses one twisted pair or one cable of several twisted pairs for the video signal. Assuming it's one pair I found the following with some extended googling

 

Twin DMX plus 2x1mm power: (Light grey, 200m drum ~€400) https://gothamcable.com/en/gothamcables/dmxled110ohm/10682frnc2dmx230vacfrncled

Sommer Monolith 2: Twin DMX plus 3x1.5mm power https://shop.sommercable.com/en/Cable/Bulk-Cable-Audio/DMX-Power-SC-Monolith-2-500-0051-2.html

Cordial CDP 2-25:: Twin DMX plus 3x2.5mm power https://www.cordial-cables.com/en/products/cdp-2-25

Syntax 7XD2F315SX: Twin DMX plus 3x1.5mm power http://syntaxcables.valentiniinternational.it/sito/schedaprodotto.php?id=13

Cat 6a plus 3x2.5mm power: https://kelseyacoustics.co.uk/product/kelsey-combi-2/

Twin DMX plus 3x1.5mm power: (seller in China) http://propaudio.com/product/hc02p15-composite-cable-power-3g1-5-2x-DMX-cable/

Cat 6 plus 2x LV power https://tmb.com/proplex-powerdata-lv/

All previous sources appear to no longer be stocking the C15A cable female, there was a thread on it here: https://www.blue-room.org.uk/index.php?showtopic=69487

Not sure if either of these currently deliver to the UK https://www.conrad.com/p/kaiser-792swc-hot-wire-connector-792-series-mains-connectors-792-socket-right-angle-total-number-of-pins-2-pe-10-740481

https://www.tme.com/in/en/details/4771.0110/iec-60320-connectors/schurter/

 

I have a barely used one you can have for the cost of the postage https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1847646715364347

Bridging is where you take two identical amplifiers and feed one with a signal exactly opposite to the other. You then connect the speaker between the two outputs instead of having one leg grounded. Now the maximum voltage is 60V (plus 30 on one leg and minus 30 on the other). As power is proportional to the square of the voltage, doubling the voltage quadruples the power. All this is assuming all sorts of things like ideal amplifiers etc but this is the principle.

 

It should be pointed out that the most common use of bridging in an amp (generally, as opposed to bass amps) is when a stereo amp (i.e. 2 amps in one box to give you left and right) is bridged to send the same signal to all outputs. If you were using 4 front fills along the downstage edge of a stage and wanted to send them all the same mono feed running from a matrix output on the desk, then you could use a bridged stereo amp to feed 2 fills each per channel but all getting the same signal.

That would be bridging the inputs, which I have never heard of being called 'bridging'. DrV's description coherently states my understanding of bridged outputs

Prolight + Sound show in Frankfurt has been put back 8 weeks. www.prolight-sound.com - Some years I visit Plasa Leeds show in May on the basis that it's soon after the Frankfurt show and therefore anything significant and newly released in Europe is likely to appear in Leeds. Not thinking of any particular product right now but it's making me wonder if Plasa Leeds now becomes a less attractive proposition

Only a couple of miles from you so this may be your contact already, but if you can live with XGA at 10k, I think Martyn at Stage Logic still has a suitable Sanyo in hire stock, though it lists at >£400/day on the website http://stagelogic.co.uk/product_catalogue/sanyo-plc-xf45-projector/

Ah yes, that reminds me, the PTE300VP wastes a couple of centimetres of tape every time for no good reason except they want to sell you more tape