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Yorkie

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Posts posted by Yorkie

  1. Probably easiest to assume that extending radio aerials down the multi is a non-starter.
    The rest of your conundrum is typically (cost effectively!) achieved by taping a mains cable to an XLR loom, although hybrid cables with mains and one or occasionally two XLR lines are available by the metre or pre-assembled. I say 'XLR' - Cable designed for AES (digital audio) is also suitable for DMX and analogue audio. Cable designed for DMX is also suitable for analogue audio. Cable designed for analogue audio is technically unsuitable for DMX, although those of us doing small scale, simple or amateur productions have probably used it anyway for years and generally not had any trouble.
     

    https://www.vdctrading.com/shop/Van+Damme+Cable/Hybrid+Cables
    https://www.thomann.de/gb/the_sssnake_dms_222_50_cat_multicore.htm

  2. 1 hour ago, sandall said:

    I suspect the Thomann is actually 2.1mm (which would suit most makes), suggesting the XSW is 1.7mm, but the only way to be sure is checking with 1.5mm & 2.0mm drill bits. Yes Ray, I did measure my drills first (all within 0.01mm of nominal).

    When was your micrometer last calibrated? 🤣

  3. Not sure why I didn't see this thread before, but a definite yes.
    (I've tried to call 'PAT' 'appliance testing' for several years, even before the 5th CoP came out)

    For me a mechanical timer would include a visual (including does it rattle - has anything broken inside), followed by earth continuity, polarity and basic functionality. A full test of functionality - determining whether it actually takes about 24 hours to rotate is generally outside the scope of the testing I undertake 🤣
    I think I have previously failed an old one with removable tappets as they were all missing and it was therefore not functional as a timer

  4. Whilst there are brand specialists and service centres, I suspect there will be someone within an hour's drive of most of the UK who has the relevant diagrams and is used to repairing amplifiers of different makes

  5. On 12/5/2023 at 6:58 AM, oligoon said:

    I need to get a Chevin A1000 and Q1004 repaired - any suggestions?

    If you put your location in your profile, you may get more relevant recommendations

    • Upvote 1
  6. 2 hours ago, timsabre said:

    @Yorkie, those dimmable floods look interesting, report back if you try them. You will probably find that dimming is a bit rubbish with Triac dimmers, but acceptable with Trailing Edge/Mosfet dimmers, at least that is what I am finding with most "dimmable" fixtures.

    I'll probably try a couple on a spare 20 year old Anytronics wallpack

  7. Bizarrely that model number rings a bell... just found documents from thirteen years ago, with a paper I wrote for a church:

    Receiver: TOA WT-4810 D02  - Back panel 13-18V DC 250mA, Manual 12V DC 130mA, Polarity and size not stated
    Beltpack Transmitter: TOA WM-4310 D02

    Frequencies:

    • 0 - 854.900
    • 1 - 855.275
    • 2 - 855.900
    • 3 - 856.175
    • 4 - 856.575
    • 5 - 857.625
    • 6 - 857.950
    • 7 - 858.200
    • 8 - 858.650
    • 9 - 860.400
    • A - 860.900
    • B - 861.550
    • C - 863.375
    • D - 863.925
    • E - 864.375
    • F - 864.725
  8. On 1/15/2023 at 4:27 PM, DanSteely said:

    He is not technical and I've been explaining about balancing phases to not put undue stress on the gen and neutral line.
    ....
    Any thoughts?

    It's not possible for anyone to simultaneously be:

    • non-technical
    • responsible for this system
    • compliant with section 6.1 of BS7909:2011

    (Short answer; I'd concur with the suggestion of 5-6 screens per circuit. Electrically compliant panels would generally be good for 16 or 20A, even if these aren't compliant, for the sake of standardisation I'd suggest 16A single phase circuits each with 30mA RCBOs, and either a 16A Cee or a True1. If screens are 32/32/12 panels then particular emphasis needs to be put on balancing across phases rather than having a screen per phase. But I'm sure you knew that)

    • Upvote 1
  9. I understand there may be all kinds of A&H supply issues at present...

    Does anyone have or know of any DT168 in stock for sale or a few months hire?

    Or suggestions of alternative Dante stageboxes to provide the same functionality with an Avantis?

    Thanks

  10. I'm told that one of the UK divisions of Solotech may have several QL1's in their sales stock. I'm not hugely familiar with different manufacturers' digital desks but have found the A&H SQ5 great to use

  11. 15 hours ago, Bryson said:

    We tend to use RDL stuff for this purpose, but not sure how available it is in the UK:

    https://www.rdlnet.com/product.php?page=712

    The website says Canford sell it…

    Edit: just realized: your electrical boxes and cover plates are a different shape/size, so this might not be much use.

    Edit again: Here it is on the Canford website:  https://www.canford.co.uk/Products/2025371/57-2503_RDL-D-CIJ3D-AUDIO-INTERFACE-Input-stereo-1x-dual-RCA-phono-3.5mm-in-terminal-out-white

    Thanks, that is exactly the product. If it was reasonably priced and available with a UK bezel I'd go for it. Shame the new ones on eBay for £13 delivered are only mono output

  12. I'm working on a church hall refurbishment project; there will be an X32 Rack hidden away in a storeroom, with a couple of analogue multicores run in the walls to flush stageboxes for balanced inputs and outputs. The only other input needed is for laptops/phones/DVD player etc, which would need balancing to run about 20m to the X32. I think the ideal solution would be a wallplate (ideally fitting a 1 or 2 gang flush electrical box) with a pair of phonos and/or a minijack socket, then stereo balancing transformers on the back of it. I assumed something like that would be an off the shelf product from CPC or Canford but can't find anything. Anyone know of a suitable product, or have recommendations for transformers if we have to assemble our own? Thanks in advance

  13. 22 hours ago, xllx said:

    I was originally planning to go with the lycra sock plan for the multi, and might make up some custom spiders with white PVC cable and paint the 16A ceeforms white!

    If it helps, I think these are the least blue (non-black) 16A connectors I've seen. Might be slightly grey though Gewiss GW62004h

    • Upvote 1
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