CalebDonovan

7 years late...but easy fix for anyone else looking for the answer. The thermo coupler has been wired pole-reversed back at the PCB. (The green and white 2 core cable on top of the block) trace it back to the PCB and reverse your polarity and it will magically start working. Hopefully you haven’t melted your heating block by this point. ???

Just as a bit if information, albeit a few years late...an air pump is essentially a transformer and a magnet. So if it sounds like a transformer is running in your unique, that is the correct sound. The air pump should be running all the time to keep the block from getting bunked up. It’s a great feature in the unique.

Thanks for your reply, Tim. The F7 is a combi faze/fogger. You can flip it to fog mode, and a solenoid closes on the front of the air line, which then enables it to work as a pure fogger. This function works, block operates perfectly, and a thick fog comes out. Unfortunately, with the air pump not operating properly, the faze mode (which is more desired) isn’t working. I’ve opened up this air pump, and after cleaning all the rust and haze fluid out of it, I can’t see a flap at all...I’ve contacted the dealer and apparently they stock this component for the air pump itself. Which is a win. Hopefully this fixes the problem, and we’ve just had a cheap fix.

Hi brains trust, I have an F7 Smaze on my workbench currently, that is only emitting small amounts of haze, and usually in standby/clean mode. The block is working fine, it appears to be clear of obstructions, it pumps ok, but when it pumps, all the fluid appears to pump back out the airpump line and into the air pump itself. Which then spills out of the air pump and onto the floor. I would naturally assume the air pump is toast, as it is full of fluid, but before I replace that component, I would like to be sure it won’t happen again. I can’t see a check valve in front of the air pump. Should I be looking at installing a check valve?