partyanimallighting

Well marabaristro, as you stated, the main purpose of taking on this project would be to basically learn a few things. Yes, the cost effectiveness will not be worthwhile,,,but the dabbling and experimentation will be fun I think.

kgallen, did Vari-Lite appropriate Zero88? Did not know this.

Hi malabaristo, my thoughts were that running the driver mainboard off of a DC power supply may be possible instead of the huge and heavy transformer. I'm assuming the the mainboard (can't remember the internals of the unit per se) receives AC voltage (probably 24 ~ 48 VAC) from the transformer and this AC voltage is converted to DC via a bridge rectifier and a regulator and I can power the mainboard directly via a DC power supply, bypassing the bridge rectifier (???). The issue I can't picture resolving is the lamp strike. The ballasts in these Platinum units receive a signal from the display via a 5 pin harness and I'll have to reproduce this signal from the original display PCB (via your circuit design?). I figure that if I can resolve this ballast/display lamp strike signal problem then I can take on the challenge of the mounting of the lamp in the existing housing. If I can get that sorted, then I'll still have the issue of the optics to sort out after.

OK, I went at it again with the variable voltage output. As I mentioned above, I removed the 3296 503 50K pot wired directly to through holes for the 3296 on the PCB but the pot didn't work. So I pulled another buck converter, removed the original pot and soldered on a 3 pin Molex connector to the pot terminals. I then wired the 50K rotary pot to the female Molex and powered up. The output voltage is 24VDC but again, I am not getting any increase in voltage off the DC to DC buck converter via the 50K pot so I'm either doing something wrong wiring wise or the pot is not compatible (???). I wired according to the pin numbers on the 3296 (pin 1 to red wire on rotary pot etc) but no control. I then tested another converter with the original 3296 pot and this pot functions fine so I'm sort of stumped here.

I'm basically letting my OCD flow uncontrolled with this little project. Red meter with red wiring for 12V, blue meter with blue wiring for 24V and yellow meter with yellow wiring for >24V and I'm almost done. The 12V and 24V meters seem to be correctly wired (thin red and yellow to banana socket+ output from PSU+, thick black wire from PSU-, thin black wire ignored and thick red wire to banana socket-). I tested with a LED PCB and diode plate and the voltage readings are correct and I'm getting what I assume are correct Amp readings. I just have to sort out that meter issue (+30VDC on the variable voltage output) and sort out this new issue with the replacement rotary pot. I followed the advice from themadhippy and I removed the 3296 503 50K pot from the buck converter and wired in the 50K panel mount pot and tested but I'm not getting a voltage increase on the output. Possible faulty solder job??

Well, here are the basic specs listed on the web page: Specifications: Working voltage of Meter itself:DC 4 - 30V(The maximum input voltage can not exceed 30V. Otherwise the meter will be burned) Working current of Meter itself:≤20mA Voltage Measuring range: DC 0 - 100V Current Measuring range: DC 0 - 10A Voltage resolution (V): 0.1V Current resolution (A): 0.01A Measure accuracy: 1% (± 1 digit) Display: 0.28" digital tube, Two color blue and red Refresh rate: about 300mS / times Dimensions:48mm*29mm*26mm Operation Temp: -10°-+65° Package Include: 1pcs x Mini Digital Voltmeter Ammeter DC 100V 10A Panel Amp Volt Current Meter Tester 0.56" Blue + Red Dual LED Display

Well, I'm back after a two week trip/holiday and work seems to be progressing smoothly on my power supply. The PSU's fit neatly into the project case but the space is a little tight so I'll have to use right angle spade terminals on the power switch (I went with only one main switch instead of individual switches for each output) and the most difficult task was cutting the knockouts for the meters. Trying to control a drill nibbling tool on such small holes was stressful to say the least so I opted for a rotary tool and hand file. I'm also short one meter so here's the next question. The meters I bought are volt/ammeters and they're rated at 10A/100V so they'll work fine on the 12VDC and 24VDC outputs. However........I'm using a DC ~ DC buck converter, fed of the 24VDC PSU, to feed the variable output supply and neither of the two meters I have available will work because, despite being rated at 0 ~ 100 volts, the pamphlet states voltages over 30 volts will burn the meter. So my question is, why do all the meters I've searched for (same size as what I have for conformity) state 0 ~ 100V when they can only read up to 30 volts?

Well madhippy, I bought a case after countless measuring and remeasuring so everything WILL HAVE to fit! My intention for the build is as follows: a True Con connector on the back panel with leads going to two individual switches mounted on the front panel, one switch feeds a 12V 20A PSU, the other switch feeds a 24V 15A PSU. The outputs from these PSU's will feed two individual volt/ammeters, also on the front panel along with individual banana plug inputs. A separate feed off the 24V PSU will feed yet another switch on the front panel then onto a small buck DC to DC converter and the 50K pot, then to yet another meter and on to this third feed's banana plug inputs. So banana input 1 ~ 12VDC, banana input 2 ~ 24VDC and banana input 3 ~ 24VDC ~ 60VDC. 🤔 .......hopefully........

Well, here's a good example as to the reasons for these questions/queries. I was looking for a replacement ballast for a moving head a while ago. Simple enough. The lamp is a 350W Philips Silver and I've attached pictures of the ballast label and the mosfets from the mover. A supplier from whom I purchased before recommended that I use their ballast but the label on their ballast states 330 watts. Now I have the blown 350W ballast and an old 330W ballast from the same supplier and, to give some sanity to my questions/queries, I checked the mosfets on both ballasts and they both use the same mosfets etc, 20N60C3, STTH15R06FP and FDPF51N25, yet one ballast is labelled 330 and the other 350. To my aged eyesight, these two ballasts appear identical and I even removed to mosfet heatsinks to get clearer pictures to confirm. Once again, back to the original question, will the 330 work instead of the 350 as "recommended" by the ballast supplier? I AM planning to purchase the "original" ballast for the 350W mover directly from the manufacturer but this question still lingers. Will that 20 watt difference in ballast output be the difference between a fully functional unit and a panicked search for a fire extinguisher?

Thanks all. pmiller056, I can easily download the datasheets for the respective lamps but a quick search for ballast datasheets drew a blank......well, not a blank exactly, but data on those big clunky metal halide ballasts, not the smaller ballasts used in movers and these ballasts in movers have practically no information on their labels. Are there any links for ballast data that you know of? sunray, isn't it strange that a 50 ~ 60 watt lamp would cause a 100 watt ballast to fail? I would think it would be the other way around. But, as was stated, the correct ballast for the correct lamp. Very amusing to hear that Martin tested lamps on a plank of wood back in the day though 🤣 musht, I was referring to the actual physical diameter of the reflector. The Osram Sirius 330 is 56MM and the Philips 17R is 58MM. These two lamps appear to be identical but...... I'm just seeking further knowledge on the workings of the HID lamp so all this information and any more information is very much appreciated.

Thanks musht, regardless of what lamp is used, the ballast will only run at it's rated output. So obviously dropping a 350 watt ballast on a 200 watt lamp would be catastrophic for the lamp. Has anyone in this forum ever witnessed such an event or been crazy enough to try it just for s^its and giggles? I've enjoyed having a 330 watt ballast explode while I was checking a serviced fixture and it was spectacular. It also took me quite a while to get the cat down off of the ceiling. So, as KevinE rightly stated, the right ballast for the right lamp. Here's another question based around this premise. Would replacing or rather downsizing say.....a Philips 350 watt lamp and it's 350 watt ballast to a 330 watt lamp and a 330 watt ballast in a unit have any type of detrimental effect? I would think the major issue would be lamp cooling but these two lamps and ballasts are quite similar and I would think that it should function, being fed similarly via a 380W 1 Amp power supply. One issue would be the lamp size as the 330 watt lamp is 56MM and the 350 watt is 58MM. I would "assume" the unit would function adequately and I'm "assuming" the only issue would be a minimal loss of lumen output. Does this sound like it makes some sense? Or will "failure be non-passive"?? 😂

Hi all. I am seeking some knowledge for future reference regarding the Platinum and Sirius series of lamps designed by Philips and Osram and used throughout a wide variety of moving heads available. My question is regarding wattage ratings between lamps and ballasts. Now 5R lamps are rated at 189 watts and 7R lamps at 230 watts which is about a 21% increase in wattage. Yet both lamps (as far as I know and have seen) will function with any equivalent 5R ballast. The same seems to be the norm with the higher wattage lamps, 15R, 16R and 17R, 300 watts to 350 watts. From what I've seen they will function with a ballast rated at 330 watts. Now, from what I recall (I could be wrong but I believe I discussed this in another forum), upon lamp strike, the ballast supplies an extremely high surge to ignite the gases to create the lamp strike and once the lamp strike is successful, that voltage trickles down to somewhere around 80 ~ 90V. In a case like this, would using say......a 300 watt ballast to strike and run a 17R 350 watt lamp put too much load on the ballast and cause premature failure of the ballast? Or the 380V power supply feeding the ballast? Or does the ballast simply supply and stabilize the voltage required by the lamp to function from the 380V power supply which feeds it? In the reverse scenario, would using a 350 watt ballast with a 15R 300 watt lamp cause any kind of catastrophic event? Inquiring minds want to know.

So richardash1981, this reduction would give you even more precise control of the output? And Jivemaster, the smaller pot in series would do the same? Interesting........

Thanks themadhippy! I just want to be sure that I order the correct part. So 50K 3 Pin Linear Taper Potentiometer it is.

Is this type of pot readily available online? Is it that this particular pot does not have a stop but continuous rotation? Similar to the 3296 mini pot on the buck DC to DC converter? Did some searches and I'm seeing linear taper pots and I'm thinking that's what I'm looking for. Please excuse my lack of knowledge. Remember I'm the new guy.

What is it? Why can't we throw out stuff? A couple of weeks ago I found an Elation Opto-Branch 4 DMX splitter in storage. Completely cannibalized and gutted out. Toss it? Noooo!! I took it apart, replaced all the missing encapsulated transformers, put in IC sockets and re-seated 8 75176's, 4 LM339's and 1 HD74HC04P which had failed and was the cause of the unit being tossed in a crate in the first place. I even replaced the power cord with a True Con. Powered up and boom!! No, not an explosion. A fully functional unit rescued and ready to serve again after being packed away since 2010 based on the date on the original picture. Total cost? About US35.00 😁 This is the same reason I'm working on those Acclaim X-Power PRO's in another post. Recycle. Recycle. Recycle.

Well all things considered, I do have lots of old (new unused) stuff lying around such as maybe 20 or 30 honeycomb 12 and 24V PSU's, I checked and the meters I bought are amps and volts so that's another plus. I also have power switches, chassis mount banana plugs in a variety of colors, fans etc. The only things that I really have to buy actually is the DIY case (sunray, I can pick one of the up for around $18.00) and the 50K pot (thanks boatman) hence my interest in pursuing this little project (it'll cost me nothing really) and I know when my OCD kicks in it'll look like a came out of a factory (a Chinese factory that is). My main dabble areas as some of you who have helped me with problems before would know, are LED PAR's and other LED based fixtures so it's basically 12V and 24V, sometimes 28V but rare. The first time I ever tested a high power 300W LED COB was earlier this week and I used the Buck converter to drive it and that's when I saw the need for the variable voltage output. Apart from the PAR's, I'll find myself fiddling around with LED moving heads and the PSU's are the normal issue with these and again, it'll be 12V or 24V, maybe 36V. And then there are my 5R's and 15R's but I've been warned here about messing around with those 380V PSU's and I was told to stay away from attempting to repair them. Just replace them. I understand the advice to buy one but I think I would have a lot of fun building this and, as I gain some experience with my repairs, I will definitely buy a proper supply and downgrade my DIY project to secondary bench PSU status. Can I get an amen?

Soooo, boatman, I'm looking for a 3 pin 50k rotary pot which will be wired directly to the three points where the 3296W is soldered onto the PCB, correct? Something like this? https://www.amazon.com/TWTADE-Potentiometer-Single-Variable-Aluminum/dp/B07GB4WSS3/ref=sr_1_4?crid=MSCYDSD6VC3D&keywords=50k%2Bpotentiometer&qid=1686586951&sprefix=50k%2Bpote%2Caps%2C1227&sr=8-4&th=1 If I use something like this, will there be a limit as to the amount of voltage that passes through it? These little DC to DC converters are rated at maximum 60V and I successfully tested a COB diode tonight with a 24VDC feed into the converter and I got the voltage up to around +-45V and the COB lit up quite nicely but I'm concerned about overload. I actually thought that this COB was blown and didn't know how to test it and did not want to put 24V into it but YouTube came to the rescue. I had bought a few of these converters a while back and tested a couple but they never worked so I just tossed them in a drawer but I had to find a way to test the COB so I found a working converter out of the pile and I realize now that I'll need that adjustable voltage feature for future testing, hence this post to confirm I'm on the right path with this build. themadhippy, I am considering ammeters for each output but that depends on if I have the space on the front panel (and I already bought some tiny voltmeters). I don't to buy too big a case that'll take up a lot of space and a horizontal case will be better for spacing out the 3 planned outputs. As for the soldering iron, once it's not burning my flesh...... Here are a couple pictures of the actual pot on the PCB for reference.

Hi all, I'm posting in the hope that a wise one will point out any unseen errors. I have two honeycomb power supplies (12V 20A and 24V 10A) mounted under my work desk and I connect to them via two XLR's mounted to the front of the desk with loose wires for connection for testing. I'm thinking of buying a DIY project box and installing the two power supplies in this, along with a fan, voltmeters and chassis mount banana plugs out for each voltage. I was thinking about also including a DC to DC converter (fed off the 24V power supply), also to a voltmeter, banana plugs and a rotary potentiometer, to get a higher voltage feed for testing COB diodes and such, along with units that need higher operating voltages (36V ~ 48V). I don't see any issues with this project but I thought it best to post here in case someone sees a potential fire hazard in the making. If I'm given the all clear, the only issue I will have would be to remove the small blue SMD pot mounted to the DC to DC converter to wire in a rotary pot and what value rotary pot to use for the front panel adjustment. Any and all advice will be gratefully accepted.

Hi indyld, I have eliminated the LED's themselves by using a simple 18 x 1W RGB LED diode plate wired directly to one of the Phoenix connectors and I simply tested each individual output with this via DMX. The unit control PCB I'm using is fully functional (from the working unit when connected to it's own dimming PCB) so that also eliminates the multi-pin micros so I've confirmed for sure the the issue lies only with the RED output on RGB outputs numbers 5 and 6. As I mentioned, I've eliminated the 9910 and the LL2705 simply by swapping out with the working GREEN channel next to the faulty RED channel but based on my lack of knowledge, I haven't been able to pinpoint the faulty component on this simple dimming circuit so I'm a little disappointed with this but I'll touch up on the solder points and meter the outputs and see if I can find the issue in the mean time. Based on what I've learnt from you guys, I was really sure that the 9910 for that RED channel was blown and it would be an easy fix but I was wrong. Then I moved on to the LL 2705. Wrong again.....sigh.

Well, I opened up the unit just one more time to double-check. I re-seated the micro-controller (last chance) and powered up. The readings remained the same, 12V and 5V power in from the ribbon cable to the control board and 5V between pins 10 and 20 at the micro so I've read the unit last rites (until I can source the micro) and bubble wrapped it up toss in storage. Thanks for all the help and guidance guys!

OK. I'm back. Let's forget about the LED sticks for a while. In my absence I was poking around in these two defective units and I do have another functional unit to cross-reference but, once again, I would need some advice as to how best to proceed. The unit consists of two PCB's that connect together via 6 separate 12-pin connectors each of which consists of two outputs each of R, G and B + and -. On one unit, when I use a functional control PCB from the working unit, I'm getting full control across 16 (of 18) DMX channels. I'm getting no RED output on outputs J5 and J6 (this would be DMX channels 13 and 16) so there's an issue on this dimmer PCB. Because the two PCB's connect together I find it difficult to test anything with a meter so I decided to go the route of ASSUMPTION. I figured the most probable culprits were the 9910's and the LL2705 Mosfets so I swapped out both of these with those from the next channels (GREEN) but still no output on the RED and the GREEN remains functional. The circuit seems to be simple enough but I'm not sufficiently savvy (or competent, or knowledgeable enough) to solve this problem so far. The circuit seems simple enough. There's an actuator and a cap for each channel on the reverse of the PCB and the dimming circuit is the 9910, the LL2705, a diode, 3 SMD resistors and 2 SMD caps. I'm just not sure how to proceed. There's another issue on the control board for this particular unit but I want to resolve this output issue first then focus on the other issue. Any help to offer?

Actually timsabre, the ADJ and Elation are identical internally, the only difference is the screen-printed brand name on the unit. Same company, same controller. But it being out of stock, availability may be never. Anyway, I'm planning to reassemble the console, give it a got wrapping of bubble wrap and toss it in storage until maybe I come across a junked one for cannibalization but is there any way I can ascertain for sure that it's indeed the "micro" that's shot? If I'm getting 5VDC between pin 20 and pin 40 on the micro and no power up, it that it? Time for bubble wrap? I had the same problem in the past with an Elation Magic 260. Same issue, bad microprocessor.

I did find this in the ADJ Parts Store for $22.00 but it's out of stock and my guess is, it'll probably be out of stock......forever. https://parts.adj.com/catalog/product/view/id/18147/?parent_id=20307

Hi all, following all these helpful posts, I peeled the labels off the "micro" and the MCU below and the microcontroller number is AT89C55WD. I downloaded the appropriate datasheet and, based on what you guys' advise above, I'm assuming that if I'm getting 5VDC across Pin 20 (gnd) and pin 40 (vcc), that means voltages coming into the main control board are fine and this "micro" is fried but please warn me if on the wrong track here. Checking back, I'm seeing that I actually picked this unit up on eBay last year August for $30.00 but I am a little disappointed that I didn't get a year's service out of it......sigh.......