partyanimallighting

Hi all, I'm seeking some advice regarding programming on a Martin Xciter. I stopped using this console when XP became obsolete and I could not backup/upload shows anymore but I really love the features that the unit offered. I'm seriously thinking about dusting off the console again and putting it back in use so I'm just seeking someone with more knowledge that me programming wise who has some time to spare to offer me some tips/tricks that I don't know about. Any offers?

Thanks again for all the responses. Regarding the new lamps in the warehouse......I've spotted the cardboard box.....but it's totally inaccessible right now so as soon as I roll everything out and get access to the box and a new lamp I'll post my findings.

I'm back. It's becoming difficult to find the time for poking around in these SmartMAC's with Christmas around the corner but I disassembled the head unit and, being Martin, it's extremely easy to tear apart. Two screws hold the entire gobo/color/focus assembly in place along with two multi-pin connectors held in place with four flat head screws. On the other side there's a plate holding the lamp ignitor and that's held in place with four screws. The thermal cutoff is attached to this plate so I eliminated this thermal cutoff as the cause of the problem by simply bypassing it. The issue remains......the unit starts up and resets fine and pan/tilt will run an effects loop without issues but a couple minutes after I strike the lamp, the "HOT" error message pops up and the unit freezes. I then pulled the lamp and it looks fine, a little cloudy in the arc tube area but otherwise in good condition but.........on closer inspection I'm seeing a tiny piece of either glass or metal, about the size of half a pin head, rolling around inside the lamp. Not good. So I will have to find those few new lamps I have, do a swap out and report back here if even with the new lamp, the issue persists.

Thanks indyld. And no, I haven't tried a new lamp as yet as me remembering and finding the lamps I think I have in storage will be a task but that was my next plan of action. If I do find a few lamps, do aswapout and the issue persists, then I'll move on to whatever thermal or optical lamp sensor the units use. Based on the design of these units, using only convection cooling for the lamps, I'm not surprised that heating/overheating would be an issue and I believe Martin discontinued these units pretty quickly. Back to the task at hand......

Thanks you for all the responses so far, I'm very grateful for the variety of answers. I've been dabbling in one unit only so far and the unit starts up fine, the lamp strikes and the unit responds to DMX. Then the "HOT" error message appears, the lamp douses and the unit seizes up, so it basically puts itself into protection mode. I've zeroed the LAMP HOURS but the problem persists so I'm thinking along the lines of a faulty lamp sensor. Seeing that this is the first time I've popped open one of these, I'm grateful for the comments above pointing me in the general direction to find the solution which initially is pointing towards a faulty lamp sensor or possible wire lead damage. Back to poking around.......with guidance.

Great idea indyld. I was considering resetting the lamp hours on one unit first to check if that cleared the error but I thought it wiser to put out a post first as I am completely unfamiliar with these units. I believe I may even have new (old) lamps lying around from my old MX-4's that I can use to test. Thanks and I'll post some feedback!

So I did a little more checking and the fixture's pan and tilt seems to function well after startup until that "HOT" error message appears, then the unit ceases all function.......strange.......

Hi all!! It's been a while since I posted anything in the forum but I've acquired a few Martin SmartMacs for resurrection and I'm having an issue with the pan/tilt function. The last time I saw a SmartMAC was at a gig I was doing back in 2010 (13 years ago!!) and they were used by another vendor but I honestly found that they were quite bright for 150 watt units and I was impressed by their output. Anyway, that was years ago, back to the problem at hand. I've powered up a couple and I've gotten lamp strike and some functionality but I'm getting a "HOT" error message so that's probably the lamp thermostat which should be an easy fix but that in itself is not the real issue. The real problem is that I am not getting pan/tilt function via DMX. The units start up and home properly and pan and tilt functions fine during reset but at the end of the cycle I get no control of pan and tilt via DMX but I am getting all other functions (shutter, color, gobo, focus etc). I have one unit completely open without the hatch door doohicky in place and another with the hatch door firmly shut and the problem occurs in both units. Before I poke around any further I'm thinking that the hatch door has a sensor or switch to send signal to the motherboard that the hatch is open and thus pan and tilt is disabled so I'm thinking that searching for this sensor/switch in the general area will be a good start but I thought it best to post to you wizards who have actually had dealings with these units in the past to get some valuable feedback to provide me with some definitive guidance. Hope somebody bites and gives me some feedback. Thanks all!!!

Soldering directly to the motherboard isn't an option but I'm thinking the the burnouts occur on the two +ive pins so I can always patch in a heavier gauge of wire with a two pin disconnect and simply cut the existing Molex connector, reducing it to 6 pins down from 8 pins. That way, I can disconnect the 2 pin +ive connection and the Molex and have the disconnectivity I need. Something like this connector that's used on the existing motherboard for the 24VDC input.

Hey guys, thanks for all the responses! Tomo, I believe it's a combination of everything mentioned. Cheap workmanship, cheap materials, undersized wire for the load, the heat factor as these are outdoor rated thus only convection cooling and the moisture factor from heating up and internal condensation. musht, changing out the entire harness with a better AWG is one solution but soldering directly to the PCB isn't possible without a connector like the XT60 you recommended midways in the harness assembly so that the diode plate assembly can be disconnected and removed. Something like a 8 pin DT connector in a suitable AWG would be great. adam2, I would suspect damp silica gel but I couldn't find any packs inside these units. Maybe they dissolved a while back. Overall, they're just poorly designed units meant for the cheap side of the market. I believe these and dozens of similar models are available for around USD60.00 ~ USD100.00 per unit anywhere on AliBaba. I have a similar unit, smaller build, MUCH BETTER quality, from Longman Lighting and this particular model has served me so well since I first bought them 10 plus years ago. I might have changed maybe a couple constant current amperage PCB's and power supplies in these units over the past 10 years. Practically bulletproof. I really appreciate all the feedback to add to my knowledge base.

Hi all, I'm just seeking some advice/feedback concerning burnouts I'm encountering on some RGBWA+UV LED PAR's. The burnouts are severe to say the least and all are occurring at the two positive pins on the motherboard that feeds the diode plate via 8 wires (+,+,R,G,B,W,Y,UV) as these two wires handle the entire load for the 6 individual colors. I believe the actual harness wire is the fault as the gauge is pretty thin (seems to be around 26~28AWG) so I'm thinking that the current draw is too much, the wire heats up and burns the Molex connector, the actual wires themselves and the two positive pins. I've cut off a few centimeters of the positive wires and patched in 22 AWG wire and replaced the burnt out Molex connector on the motherboard and I'm hoping this will work. Oh! And yes, they're cheap Chinese outdoor rated PAR's. Any feedback or a better solution thrown my way will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Tom Baldwin. I did see this during my searches but because I already had an available voltmeter and the voltmeter hole was already cut out and the hole drilled for the pot on the front panel I didn't consider this type. Space would be the other issue as I will have to fit the module itself inside the project case and this display is larger but I can cut the display knockout on the front panel larger. I had originally drilled holes on the back panel to mount the other buck converter (which is a lot smaller) so I'll have to see if I have enough depth from the inside of the back panel to the edge of the two mounted power supplies. Aesthetically, the original planned small buck booster connected to a similar sized voltmeter would have been perfect but if that's not possible...... If I can't get the mounting space, the search will continue. I'd love to get some feedback also as to what I could have done wrong with my initial conversion from the 3296 to the 50K external pot.

These are the motor controllers I am seeing on AliExpress and Amazon but I'm not sure that they will work for the purpose I intend to use them for. They do have the external pot that I require and these pots seem to be wired in exactly the same way that my external pot was wired but my wiring did not work. I really hope someone will steer me in the right direction so I can finally finish this little project.

Here are the images of the buck converters I intended to use, the 3296 pot that was removed and the 50K pot that was tested. As you can see, I simply removed the 3296 and installed a Molex connector with a harness for the 50K pot but that never worked. The harness is obviously necessary for mounting on the front panel. I mean, there's a hole there already, right?

Hi all, I posted on this topic before and I think the post got lost in the flow of other posts by different forum users. In my original post I mentioned that I was building a bench-top power supply with 12VDC, 24VDC and a variable voltage output from 24VDC up to about 48VDC. I partially completed the unit but I was stumped on the variable voltage output. I used a 12VDC and a 24VDC power supply and my plan was to use the 24VDC output to power a DC to DC buck converter with a pot attached to get the voltage variations. I tested the buck converter off the 24VDC PSU and I got the voltage adjustments I required off the 3296 pot on the converter but when I connected an external 50K pot I got no adjustment and I ended up frying the buck converters that I had. I tried different wire orientations but no positive result and I wired leads directly to where the pins 1, 2 and 3 for the 3296 were removed to the external pot. The power supply works fine, I have my 12 and 24VDC outputs but there's a gaping hole in the front panel where my variable voltage meter is supposed to fit and a hole below this for the pot to adjust voltage on that output. I've searched on Amazon and AliExpress (I'm in the West Indies so this is the best source for me) but I can't find a suitable DC to DC step up voltage regulator with an external pot. The only thing I've found that I think may work are DC motor speed controllers but I'm looking for some guidance here once again. Please excuse my craftsmanship in the pictures below as I did not have a nibbling tool and I used a rotary tool to cut the meter knockouts.

Well, I certainly learnt something today. I've never come across soda crystals as far as I can recall but you have to remember I'm in a small island in the West Indies so that says something. Based on what's stated above, even if I source these crystals, I doubt that it can be used on the newer models of fog machine because the tubing is very thin and it seems to be made out of either aluminium or stainless steel but I'm more inclined to believe it's stainless steel because of the temperatures involved. Even the Antari M5's carry an aluminium block (one smaller cylinder welded inside a larger outer cylinder) with a heater rod inserted in the middle so these crystals would corrode the block itself. The Martin MP-2000's do however carry copper tubing but these Martin heaters rarely clog or develop any sort of blockages.

Hey guys, thanks for all the responses. ImagineerTom, we're 120VAC locally so 99% of the machines used are 120V. The idea that the guitar wire could cause scratches inside the tubing and create an abrasive surface that could create further blockages seems quite sound actually. Contrary to your doubts about compressed air I have used this method with success and there's normally a loud expulsion of pressurized air once the blockage gives up resistance and blows out the other end. After that a good flush is all that's needed ....... and the compressed air won't cause scratches on the inside of the coil. sunray, great bit of "back in the day history" there. A couple questions though. What would cause the heater to run cool? A faulty/failing heating element? A faulty thermocouple? And flushing with soda crystals?? Can you define and describe this? Are we talking bicarbonate of soda here diluted in water I presume? themadhippy, this method also works but most times not on an absolute blockage but on the type of blockage where there's still a "dribble" of output from the other end of the heater. My "heating and whacking" method normally works with these partial blockages. Based on all the comments received on the post, it seems that the one surefire way to resolve the problem is to buy a new heater block 😁😁 Thanks all!!!

ImagineerTom, I've had issues with even the better brands such as Martin actually. I believe I have two Martin MP-2000's packed away for a few years because of faulty mainboards/remote controls. My best luck however has been with Antari (especially the smaller Z1200 II model) as higher end units like Rosco, Le Maitre, Look Solutions etc have never been within my budget range. The priciest units I've ever had in my inventory would be those MP-2000's and Antari M5's and even these M5's were problematic at times. A truly great feature of the Antari Z-1200 II's is that the heater block could be completely disassembled and the inner spiral tube could be removed, cleaned and the heater reassembled. All of the newer models of the cheaper DJ brands seem to now carry a solid aluminium heater core with the element and the thermocouple cast into the mold. I totally agree with you, proper maintenance is a must along with a good flush regularly. And good fluid. The best fluid I've ever used would be Martin Pro Smoke. I used to order this by the 55 gallon drum and never had issues with any of my machines with this fluid whereas I've had machines brought in with output problems and when I inquired, the users made a simple mixture of distilled water and over the counter pharmacy glycerine and used this with "great success" and then wondered why the units clogged after a few uses. None of my de-clogging solutions listed above ever saved these clogged machines. The post was really to see if there were other ideas floating around out there to add to my de-clogging list of treatments but nothing has popped up as yet but thanks for your comments.

Hi all you wizards, I was wondering if anyone has any semi-foolproof methods for clearing blocked heaters in fog machines? Most times these blockages occur deep inside the fluid coil windings so there's no way to clear them. Here's my method list and I was wondering if anyone had any other methods that they would be willing to add to this list. 1. I would normally first try probing inside both ends of the heater block to see if the clog is reachable with a piece of wire. Failing that I'll normally try some guitar string to see how far I can get it into the coils of the tube then run the pump reconnected to the heater to see if the blockage was at least partially cleared. Unfortunately I've had guitar wires stuck inside the coils, never to be removed again. Heated dumped. 2. I'd use a syringe with acetic acid or very diluted muriatic acid to try to get into the coil by positioning the heater upright, leaving it overnight and hope that gravity takes effect and the acid finds it's way down to the blockage. I actually have had success with this method and next day there would be a small puddle of crud on the output end of the heater block. After that clearing was simply a matter of flushing thoroughly. 3. I've tried connecting the pump directly to the heater and running the pump to see it the pump pressure clears the blockage. I normally try this at both ends of the heater and I have a collection of adapters/connectors to fit various heater types. If this doesn't work, while the pump is pressuring the heater I would connect the heater directly to an AC source, let it heat up a bit and hit the heater block so lusty blows with a hammer in the hopes of dislodging the blockage. I've also had some success with this method. 4. Failing all of the above, I would connect the heater to an air compressor using my collection of connectors/adapters, and apply some serious PSI to the heater block. Again, with some lusty blows with a hammer, and then try again with the heater connected to AC and heated up. This method has also worked for me. I have had success with these methods with a variety of brands but unfortunately manufacturers have now moved away from a heater core with a removable spiral to a long aluminum or stainless steel spiraled tube encased in a solidblock of molten aluminium with the thermocouple and heating element encased inside the block, totally non-removable and totally non-repairable and my success rate has dropped with these newer models. And let's not mention the cost of a replacement heater from the manufacturer. Any hints or ideas or solutions that might help?

Well, here's the 2/3's of the way semi-completed power supply. The empty rectangular hole on the right side is for the missing meter for variable voltage output and the hole below this is for the 50K rotary pot to adjust that voltage. The 15A 12VDC power supply is visible through the hole for the meter and the 24VDC power supply is mounted (on 7CM spacers) below the 12VDC power supply. I've basically stalled however because I haven't resolved the problem with getting the DC to DC buck transformer to function when the 3296 was replaced with the 50K pot but I had no choice but to assemble as is as I needed to have DC voltage available for testing. If only I could get that 50K pot issue sorted out.........

Yup. Sourcing lamps for older conventionals is becoming a major headache. I've been searching for branded GLD750's for some time now with no success. I was fortunate enough to sell of my 1000W Par Cans and dimmers a few years ago.

Not UK based but I've gotten great service from Elation splitters/boosters. If an output went down it was a simple repair via replacing an encapsulated transformer or a blown transceiver. The Chauvet Data Streams are fairly reliable too.

You can remove the locking pins from any old small moving head hanging bracket and drill out two holes on either side of the motor back plate and bolt on the bracket. You'll have the centre hole of the hanging bracket to accommodate any type of clamp. I used 2 10MM bolts with lock nuts on either side. A workbench vice and a hammer will solve any issues if the moving head bracket is a little wide for the motor plate.

Hey all, I'm looking for some basic feedback on 5R beams. I'm trying to recycle a couple of old Beam units (Chinese no less) that had faulty power supplies. These units are really basic and I've fiddled around with a variety of different models in the past and it's basically a power supply, ballast, display, mainboard and lamp and of course, some builds are better than others. My basic knowledge from past experience is that if there's no lamp strike, check the 380VDC into the ballast. If that's fine, check lamp wires and thermo. If those are fine, then it's either lamp or ballast. Swap out the lamp. If there's still no strike, change the ballast. My first question is ~ Is this standard modus operandi? Is this what everyone does? Anyway, back to the problem at hand. I got new power supplies and started the swap-out and I tested without the ballast connected and both units started up fine and functioned via DMX (noisy and dusty yes, but functional). However.....when I connected the first ballast and lamp harness, the power supply blew out, not violently, just the fuse blew out. I tore apart the power supply and bridged the fuse with a single strand wire and that blew out on power up, so there's some damage further along in this power supply. Now, my second question is ~ I DO NOT want to risk the other new power supply so I'm seeking some advice as to how I can go about testing this ballast and the ballast in the other unit and also any ballasts in the future without any further blowouts. I do have single output 380VDC power supplies available but I do not want to put these at risk either. And the third question ~ when I was running the original test to strike the lamp, I "forgot" to connect the 5 wire harness from the display to the ballast. This harness feeds to the display and I believe it sends a signal to the display upon lamp strike (most of the displays on start up state, "waiting on lamp strike" with a counter) so the fixture can start it's RESET process. Would my omitting to connect this harness cause the blowout of the power supply? This I doubt because it would be the same scenario as having a bad lamp or ballast but I'm befuddled as it is plus I'm out one brand new power supply. You guys have always been so helpful in the past and some or any advice for future reference would be greatly appreciated.

Hey all, I've put a Molex terminal on the new rotary 50K and metered it disconnected from the buck converter. On the new rotary pot I'm getting 2.2 ~ 50K across pins 1 and 2, a constant 50K across pins 1 and 3 and 50K across pins 2 and 3 and a reading of 2.2 with the probes reversed. The original 3296 is giving me basically the same readings 2.2 ~ 50K across pins 1 and 2, a constant 50K across pins 1 and 3 but 50K across 2 and 3 with the probes normal and reversed. It seems that the pots (both original and new) seem to be fine but when either one is connected to the buck converter there is no voltage adjustment at the output. Maybe I've damaged the solder points when I removed the 3296 to install the 3 pin Molex? I doubt that because I'm getting continuity at the pins to the relevant solder traces. Two are bridged at the solder point itself (pins 2 and 3) and pin 1 feeds a small 8 pin IC below the converter. I was even considering removing the Molex pins and resoldering the 3296 back onto the buck converter but the attached Molex connector is basically the same as resoldering it back in place. I have more of these converters lying around but I thought it best to seek some advice from you guys before I "destroy" another one.