dosxuk

Quoted for emphasis - I can't agree more. And it's missing the key question - would you use/buy/install this product. I couldn't care less about the colour palette or logo since I don't think it's a practical product in the real world.

No, it isn't. The MADI-USB card is used to expand the number of sources available on the mixer. The ethercon socket on that card is for the MADI over CAT5 audio connection. It's not able to control the mixer or provide tablet or iPad control. The only control data passed over that port is the remote headamp control data between the mixer and stagebox.

Are you sure you connected to the MADI connection not the HiQNet connection on the back of the mixer? As above MADI is not ethernet and can not be connected to a router, switch or any other off the shelf networking hardware. It also doesn't provide remote control of the mixer. As for the HiQNet port, that is just standard networking so any patch cable (pin out is freely available) will do the job.

I've found a proper loudness meter to be invaluable for getting proper streaming levels right. I've now got my own one of these - https://m.thomann.de/gb/tc_electronic_clarity_m_stereo.htm - coupled with a blackmagic SDI-HDMI converter being used to output AES to give me proper metering from the any SDI feed. On the mixing side, it's all down to compression strategies. It feels wrong coming from a live sound perspective to stick so much gain and high ratio compression on, but it's what I feel I need to keep things in the right region on the stream. (I'm also hoping for some tips and tricks on this thread as I'm never entirely happy!)

Some USB power supplies have functions to turn off the power if not enough current is being delivered. I guess the idea is to turn off when batteries are fully charged / equipment is turned off, but with some small devices it just doesn't work. I've had the same problem with arduino's shutting down. Never had this as a problem when powering from some other device though. The BMD SDI-HDMI converters also act as buffers on their loop output, reclocking the incoming signal, so they can be used as handy boosters on long (or questionable quality) cable runs.

It should probably work (not tested!) as the usb-c is designed to power hard drives and the micro converters don't pull much. That said there's some major BMD stock issues going on at the moment. Getting hold of anything is a challenge, the micro converters were just changed and nobody in the UK seems to have much in the way of stock.

Building we're currently doing an install at is undergoing a major refurbishment. At the start of the project a plan was sent out with the results of the asbestos survey. Every single room is marked as "asbestos confirmed" or "unable to access, asbestos presumed". Whole project was delayed by over a year while the situation was cleaned up. 1950s construction is amazing.

I don't think that implies that it has to carry on working as intended while subjected to the interference, only that it doesn't self destruct. A radio mic receiver can pass an EMI test, but if you blast it with interference in the frequencies it's trying to pick up at then it will struggle to give you a clean signal from it's intended microphone and I wouldn't consider that to be a failure of the EMI test. These sort of things happen quite regularly. I know of a nearby case where a faulty outdoor discharge lamp starter circuit was causing an entire village's broadband to reset every night. The faulty light was also on a light sensor rather than timer so it was even harder to work out when it would happen.

Although your measurement of reliable may vary with the teradek kit. I'd never use it for anything show critical.

There are also issues with computer monitors not liking YUV format pictures (vs RGB). I've seen plenty of computer monitors that don't work, but never a TV that won't display a picture from an Atem output. With regards to the audio level shift, Atem's always seem to be a bit quiet, so the level difference may not actually be that much of a problem. I've given up on the built in metering and use a proper loudness meter on it's output to get a proper idea of levels.

Is there any cable designed specifically for the neutrik 10 pin XLRs, as IIRC they're designed for network+power.

Just had a quick measure up here of Neutrik 3 pin male and female connectors. Both were approx 23.3mm maximum diameter from the rear. The male was approx 23.4mm diameter at the front and the female 23.6mm diameter.

No multiview on the Atem Mini (the new Pro version has added it though, but with the same limitation of only having on HDMI output).

Without going into detail here, because of the many dodgy reasons for removing HDCP, all I can say is it does work. There are plenty of links on Google for people using cheap splitters in this way. With the Atem - it would be the display in the chain, it wouldn't be passing data to a display for HDCP purposes - after all most of the models only have SDI outputs so there is no way to do the HDCP handshake. The Atem captures the exact pixel data into a frame buffer to do what it wants with, it doesn't treat incoming HDMI as just a data stream that can be switched to an output. On all of the Atems , bar the Mini & new Mini Pro, if they did support HDCP, then they could be used to get exact copies of the incoming video signals, in a format with no copy protection available (SDI). Therefore they don't support it.

The licensing folk shouldn't be bothered, provided you've got the bit of paper (/ email) to say you've got permission to show the protected content. After all, HDCP isn't there to stop people showing unlicensed content, it's there to stop you being able to rip bit-perfect copies of media, and in this case you're not trying to do that. The cheap splitters do work with the Atem's to do exactly this, although it can be a bit hit and miss whether they remove the HDCP protection or not - you may need to try a couple before you get one that works suitably. Look for options with decent refund options, or that are cheap enough to throw away if it doesn't work.

None of the Atem devices support HDCP, and further than that, none of the Blackmagic kit supports it.

Why not just unplug the current desk?

It's not about the marketability, it's about actually having a target. Your concert pianist does scales in order to become a good pianist. With this project, you could add features to run chases on 4 led units, or sound to light changes - a goal you can actually see and understand. It doesn't need to be a marketable product. Or, you can buy a DMX merger, learn all about HTP and LTP channels, learn how to configure the merger, plug the two together in order to, errr... ???

What exactly are you trying to achieve by connecting the controllers together? Is it to control some lights off one and some off the other, or some controls of some lights off one and the rest off the other. I'm just very confused as to what the point of this is. If the student has got a controller capable of controlling one light and wanting more features to add, I'd be looking at ways to add multiple fixtures / chases / fades / memories, that way you can use it as a standalone thing with an actual purpose rather than a one-off expensive bodge that it doesn't seem like either you or the student really understand what you're doing with. Sorry to be blunt, but I've never understood, even as a kid, the value of doing things for the sake of it, rather than because it actually has point to it. You / your student may well feel differently and I won't disagree.

I've had a DJ mixer rejected by a "production manager" for a DJ for the grave fault of not having a genuine A&H Xone embossed fader cap on one of the channel faders. Had something silly like 24 CDJ's and 16 various mixers on that job, all working perfectly yet he still found something to have a strop about (and yes, he did have a strop).

What kit do you use, and what do you mean by outside? You need to take a lot more precautions if you're talking about lights outdoors by the sea for six months than you would in the roof of a decent sized festival stage.

I have to say, as a piece of industrial design, that's horrific. While I can think of loads of uses for a device like that, I can't imagine many places being happy with sticking that on the wall except in a cupboard where nobody can see it. Just for a start, why is the LED for each button in a different relative place to the button?!

I've seen this done numerous times - by people with a folder full of paperwork and calculations to show it's safe. If you're asking if it can be done, then yes. If you're asking if it's safe, then it depends on the numbers you come up with.

I would also be very surprised if there was actually no signage up.

I much prefer the Brother machines to the Dymo ones - the tape cartridge seem much more robust, we're constantly having problems where the "print" tape gets cut by putting the cartridge in the machine, meaning from then on you have to manually remove it. Never had a similar problem with the Brother EZ tape. Also look out for a "clear all" button / function. The cheap Dymo ones don't have it, so the only way to get rid of your long print to do a new one is to keep pressing backspace.