alistermorton
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Everything posted by alistermorton
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A particularly effective scheme one of my colleagues used for the night-time cliff top scene in Daisy pulls it off was a surprisingly brightly lit stage. He used a very low level from the FOH bar with a neutral wash that doubled for his indoor light - 152+744 - to pick up the faces, then the main wash was just 4 Cantatas in 716 and 4 743s in 601 - it gave a very believable nighttime feel without being hard to see what was going on.
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Deadkitten instead?
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Try L147 from one side, L118/117 from the other, and for face L200 at low level (yes, I know it's supposed to be "sunlight" but at low level it's bluey green) or L601 for a sort of murky grey but that allows you to see what's happening.
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Also known as a coffin lock key, aren't they?
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That rings a bell, Tony.
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There was a low fogger being demo'd at ABTT that didnt use CO2 or ice so an alternative to the glaciator but can I remember its name?
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We used to do the same with a Samsung camera.
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Yes, we currently have a show in the theatre (opens Thursday) with a camera on the conductor relayed to monitors facing the stage and the stage monitor camera relayed to the conductor, because the band are in the wings on a mezz. Analogue both ways and the conductor is happy and the cast are happy.
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So the camera we use is DS-2CD4A26FWD-IZHS which is a low light 2MP bullet camera with both analogue and IP outputs, zoomable, and with manual switchover between colour and mono/IR Cost about 300 quid when it was new, apparently. It's been superseded already AFAIK
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I can see that being used a lot. Like you, I ended up writing my own little harness to send and receive messages to check what was going on, but not everyone can just fire up the dev env and rustle up an application.
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I'll try to find out over the weekend - I'm in most of saturday and Sunday for tech on A Little Night Music.
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We use a HikVision too - not sure of the model - but we have it set up so that it will flip into IR B&W mode immediately on receiving a 12V signal, which is supplied via a DMX relay, thus we can force it to IR during a blackout, which is much quicker than letting the camera do it automatically, and avoids the real estate (and expense) of having two cameras and two monitors side by side. Works for us.
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Probably won't be until mid July ...
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We're going to be doing a side by side with tbe ovation and both colorsource and lustr+ and possibly the new Martin profile too. I'll pass on our findings.
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I did a similar purchase at our local Homebase with boxes of 6 x MR16 at a quid each so I bought ten. Should keep us going long enough until we can find a decent LED lamp for our birdies.
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Might also be worth being able to receive OSC commands, too. e.g. /mplay/cue/4/go
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I'd second what Shez said - a decent enough picture with low latency and good performance in low or IR light is more important than absolute "I can count the stitches on the costume" pin sharpness in perfect light.It's a trade-off.
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I found the references linked from ETC site to their stuff about OSC was very useful, and the sample code also helped. I was able to write my own interface between a midi surface and EOS, just as luminosus came along and made the whole exercise moot.
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As someone who has had to interface lots of serial stuff in the past, I'd day it's a questionable omission to assume 8B1SNP and so I'd allow the options to be selected. Even assuming 8 bits is questionable. Likewise, I've had to interface to stuff with no handshake at all, full hardware handshake, software handshake (XON/XOFF) ...
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Good average price Hazer advice please
alistermorton replied to Uriahdemon's topic in Effects & Pyro
We've had a unique 2 for years and it just keeps working. Ours needs a bit of TLC now, but it must over ten years old - only problem is a bit of a buzz from it. Use the right fluid and it just keeps churning out the haze. Arguably not as good as some, though, depending on your budget. -
Halogen GU10s (decent ones, at least) are getting like hens teeth. Even the good ones are fragile.
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Chances are the tape has a 4 way 0.1" pitch connector on it that goes into the IR controller. As musht said, it can go straight into a 3 channel DMX controller. It can then appear as a RGB 8b fixture or three dimmers for R,G,B. You'll need to supply 12V to the controller - you can butcher on a connector to the supply that you got with the tape.
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My understanding of CRI is incomplete, TBH. I'll look into it some more. I'm not sure if the red shift as you lower the colour temperature affects the CRI - I'll do some more reading.
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True, but I thought we were discounting tungsten ... my mistake. Also, does a 300W PAR56 have the same CRI as a 1000W HPL, for example? The spectra of the lamps is different due to the different power consumption and hence filament temperature, surely?
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I'd expect sockets - I'd expect the male part to mean the multi-pin plug.
