Bazz339

So my caution was justified. I do seem to remember making up a mini jack to MXLR lead with some capacitors in the plugs for something. Not best practice but needs must sometimes.

Yesterday I used my Windows 10 Acer computer as an image source for a fairly old Sanyo PLC-XU?? projector via a genreic HDMI to VGA adaptor. The image was subatanitally offset to the left. I had seen the projector in use on Sunday with an Apple PC which uses the same VGA arrangement and it was fine. I am fairly certain I have used my computer in the past as a source using the HDMI to VGA adaptor without a problem. I set my computer up at home to feed an old low res TV with VGA in and again the image was substantially offset to the left. I did take a photo of it but can't get it to upload. Has anyone experienced this? Does anyone have suggestions as to what might sort it? I am thinking there might have been something in a W10 update which might be causiing this problem with the HDMI to VGA adaptor. Usng the VGA out on my old computer also running W10 I get the TV monitor to display the Taskbar on the bottom but not any icons or what was on the screen above the task bar. I kept getting "Out of Range" messages on the TV monitor so suspect that may be a resolution issue. This computer would not output via the HDMI socket and I could not find out in Device Manager whether it was switched off somewhere. It was showing 2 Generic PNP monitors. Unfortunately video and projection is something I never did much of and do even less now. It may be something I did less and do even less of now but I have got somewhere. Working at home a dodgy VGA cable and a very old TV monitor did not contirbute to fault finding. On slightly better monitor and sitting comfortably I worked through and hopefully sorted it for me. I wrote this crib sheet so when I come to do it again in 9 months I might not have ot work it out again. If anyone else feels the urge feel free to cut and paste at your peril. I have not tried it on site yet. Like so many things simple if you know how and do it regularly. Instructions for using HDMI adaptor with Windows10 Computer Plug in adaptor to computer and VGA cable Toggle screen select to ExtendGo to Display Settings- Right click on Desktop Screen. Select Screen 1 or which ever is identified as the computer monitor screen. Scroll down to Multiple Displays. Select Extend these displays. Assuming the computer display is selected at 4. Select Make this my main display. On column on the left select Sound.Select choose your output Device. Select appropriate output device (Real Tech Loudspeakers to output via 3.5mm jack.)Go to Power/Related Settings/Additional Power Settings Select an appropriate plan.

I used to maintain Kodak 2050s on site for multi projector installations. I still have some projectors… probably a maintenance manual (white on black on photographic paper if I still have it) and goodly box of parts which I would be interested in selling as a job lot if anyone is interested PM me and I will make a list.

Plugging Keyboards, phones etc into mic sockets that have phantom power on them. Many of the cheaper desks only have global phantom power on the mic inputs, I am fully aware of DI boxes, balancing and other interface boxes and use them. Yesterday someone plugged a keyboard into a phantom powered mic sockets using a MXLR to Jack lead (No idea of wiring) No damage to keyboard and did work but an interesting extreme oscillation when a brass band kicked off presumably caused by the induction loop that the keyboard was in the field of. Inserting a DI box got rid of that, however it set me wondering. Has anyone ever damaged an item of equipment such as keyboard, phone, walkman by plugging it into a socket with phantom power on it? I have always assumed damage to equipment was something that was theoretically possible and sought to avoid the situation.

Thanks, Optoma was where I got the Coretronics name from.

Whilst "Locked Down" I am looking at an Optoma HD141X projector for a friend and neighbour. I have for the third time had to glue flags back onto its colour wheel. Unfortunately this time another flag got broken by the one that came adrift. I am trying to source prices for a replacement colour wheel, eBay has a range at various prices from £22 or so from China. to £60 for one claiming to be OEM and supplied from the UK. I am trying to find an authorised Optoma parts reseller by way of comparison, apparently Optoma UK do not supply parts, anyone know who the authorised reseller is? Optoma sas a company called Coretronics or similar but I have been unable to find them. Would you bother or would you just get one of the China ones and hope for the best? I can't imagine there would be that many factories churning out such an item so would have thought it was fairly likely to be OEM anyway, I bought an EGR valve for my car (Advertised as from UK but Chinese company and made in China) £60 as opposed to £300 from a motor factor and it came well machined, fitted perfectly and my car passed its MOT so not completely averse to recommending that path.

3rd Tranche of SEIS grant needs to be applied for now.

Yes I know search engines are my friend and I have searched and come up with some options incuding these but can anyone recommend from experience a decent set, maybe a bit more pro and ideally reachargeable. The village christmas tree sits on a crescent of grass in front of my house. There is no mains power available (At least without running a cable across a small road which apart from the liability/legal aspect I would be quite happy to do) A couple of people have looked after it but one has died. They originally used a 12V battery and latterly some sets powered by maybe 3 AA batteries each. There could really do with being more and brghter, I have been asked in a tangential way to have some input. The set I have linked to used D cells with a timer which will obviously last longer but are there off the shelf rechargeable pro-ish sets? Ideally I would like 30M (Or more) and would probably use a couple of sets. It is well within my ability to make something but it is bit late now. Mind you, it is probably a bit late to buy something as well but maybe for next year. T.I.A. Bazz

I have a spare PSU board for Live 16/4/2 if anyone is interested £10 including postage & packing (Basically signed for postage plus a pint) It says I replaced the bridge rectifier, but that it cut out under test, I had not put it back in the box or attached the heatsinks (other than to the BR) so sold as spares or repair. PM me if interested. Bazz

Self Employed Covid 19 Support application now live here You will need: Tax Reference, National Insurance and Government Gateway number as well as your Gov Gateway Password. After finding the site, the application was straightforward. Bazz

As per title, can anyone point me in the direction of a source for some HT cable. It is for the lamp wires in some Clay Paky movers. The existing cable is single core double insulated, possibly silicone covered, very flexible, approx 1mm in CSA and able to withstand the high temperature of a discharge lamp . Not sure of the voltage rating but 25KV was mentioned. If anyone can confirm the strike voltage, that would be appreciated. I have looked at RS, CPC/Farnell and searched on line.

That's interesting because I have always regarded the Sony units as the gold standard. So they cope with most formats, e.g. WAV (I would hope so), WMA, MP3 ETC.? From the picture it looks as though they do not have a Cue function. Is that correct?

I need to replace a Citronic USB/SD CD player that was too complicated and did not read some CDs reliably. I am considering a Clever Accoustics or Pulse plasyer, they look very similar if not identical. I thing one has phonos as well as XLR outs the other only has XLRs. I have also used this Teac CD player in some installations. Has anyone used the first 2 players? Are they reliable, able to read different format CDs (As stated) and simple to use? Other suggestions gratefully received , budget £150 plus VAT.

I have a Yamaha D2040 2 in 2x4 out delay line/ crossover/ splitter which I intend to sell. Full Spec. Here It is missing a Mute button cover and actuator for the PCB momentary switch behind it. All other functions including the motorised faders work. I always liked this unit, it did what was required and was easy to use, but have no idea how they were or are regarded in the industry. The button is likely to cost in excess of £25 to replace, can anyone give me a guide as to what the unit might sell for? I don't suppose anyone has a mute button cap with lens and surround knocking around do they?

I apologise if my posts are wrong which they may be. My PSU is mounted and I cannot get to it easily. 18V-O-18V could probably be rectified, smoothed and regulated on board to give 48V for phantom power. I do seem to remember coming to the conclusion that rectification etc. was in the desk rather than the PSU.

I don't think it is V-0-V type PSU. As stated in my original post.

Good Day Cry ss They are good little budget desk but the power supply connector is not the best and I think it is a connector unique to Soundcraft. If you are able to and have access to the tools and connectors I would replace it. Your other option would be to wire the psu to the mixer permanently. I would suggest you buy a new power supply intended for the mixer if possible, There are at least 2 voltages on the connector, probably 48V for phantom power for microphones that require it and maybe 15 or 17V for the audio electronics. I note that you are in Romania and that purchasing such an item may be difficult but you may be able to purchase one on Ebay but there are none listed at present in the UK. You can look up the Power Supply here Soundcraft dealer in Romania is listed as: Electrovox Co Ltd 192-D Republic ii Boulevard PO Box 3-3 2000 Ploiesti (t) +40 244 567 230 (f) +40 244 567 231 (e) director@electrovox.ro (w) http://www.electrovox.ro/