Bazz339

Anyone used these Pro Signal units ?

I am looking at a video installation for a church, probably to 2 pairs of monitors at the front of the church (Distance approx 30M) and one at the rear of the church (10M) so 2 or maybe 3 separate feeds with local distribution/splitting as necessary. I have not been actively involved in video for a few years now. The last event I worked on, I seem to remember using a system utilising coax cable of some sort to adapter boxes (to HDMI) by each monitor. What system might that have been? What other systems are there now? I should mention that the whole of the system will be within the field of an audio frequency induction loop system so the signal and cables needs to stand a very good chance of being immune to magnetic interference. The main run(s) to the front can be accomplished in the under floor heating duct down the central aisle, so some distance from the AFILS cable as will the monitors be. The comfort monitor at the rear, if placed in the ideal position will be extremely close to the loop cables which is doubled at that point so some experimentation as to position will be needed there. T.I.A. Bazz

It took a lot of effort (Vice and Pipe grips) to open the mic. The battery inside was if I recall correctly dated too 2027 and not leaking which was a surprise. However there had defiinitely been leakage in the past and the -Ve terminal disintergrated. I valliantly fabricaated a replacement to no avail, the mic was dead and could not get the case back on the mic. All 3 static mics (Of diiferent types) have suffered the same fate. Installing a small band style mixer amp without phantom power where condenser mics might be the best choice (Church with Induction Loop) is not the best option IMHO. The installaton was done many years ago but I doubt pre-dates readily available mixer amps with phantom. I suspect the whole system may end up being replaced, the speakers are knackered as well.

As footnote to this thread, having built the cicrcuit , I used the microphone for a job. It was working fine and then failed after an hour or so. Today I tested it expecting it to be the phantom to T power adaptor that had failed. A brief test with a multimeter seems to suggest that may be OK I.e +12V on Pin 2, OV on pin 3. I have not tried passing audio through the circuit but it looks like the mic may have failed. It was the first time it had been used in probably 25+ years. I will investigate further out of interest. I doubt I will investigate getting the mic fixed if it is faulty (Sennheiser 415T probably 40 years old). Attached is the circuit used redrawn to fit veroboard. The piece I had did not have continuous copper strip, there were 7 holes then a break in the track and another 7 holes. I used 5 rows. If you are going to use it please make your own evaluation as to its suitability. As stated my mic appears to have failed after an hour or two's use but it was an old mic and I have not fully investigated yet. All credit for the original circuit to Rick Chinn T Power Adaptor.pdf

Thanks for the reply, the manual I had already read, but the ebay photo was instructive. I don't know that I noticed the second lower ring on the mic body, the light was not good, I also suspect the battery may be swollen, a label on the mic said AA fitted 2008, no idea if it has been changed since! If it hasn't probably a write off.

Went to recce a church for an external PA. The sound system has not had anyone looking after it for some time (Years?). It has a sound system which looks like it has been installed fairly well by a company with a DIsco/Small band shop background with KAM mixer amp with no phantom power and condenser mics that need batteries changing regularly. The system is reported as not being very good/not working, I would consider myself lucky if a (non diversity) radio mic receiver with attached aerial in a rack case in the vestry separated by a stone wall and the organ from the transmitter worked at all, never mind reliably. Has anyone had any experience of changing the battery on an ATM31A mic? I expect(ed) the lower part of the body to unscrew to reveal the battery compartment (AA Size I think). Whilst the top of the mic unscrewed revealing the capsule a battery compartment was not apparent or I missed it. I suspect the bottom of portion of the mic needs to be removed and that it may be seized by a corroded battery. Can anyone confirm whether this might be the case? I have read the User manual but seek clarification from anyone with experience of these particuar mics. I was not able to spend much time on a problem that was not mine at the time. Sometimes it might be good to have a hand with these jobs. Anyone in the Macclesfield area interested in teaming for ooccasional jobs? Not full freelance long day rate but sensible none the less, easy work and what I would be prepared to do similar for. If you are interested PM me.

It would be a pretty poor job if something that has an XLR mic Level output on it and intended to be plugged into a mic level input on a mixing deskwas not designed to cope with 48V phantom power and to be honest I have never given it any thought. These are pretty versatile low price readily available stereo DI boxes. It would be best to make sure there are no 3.5mm jacks to MXRL cables around or indeed jack or phono to MXLR adaptors. You will need a 3.5mm stereo jack to 2 X 6.35 mm standard mono jacks.

That's a blast from the past, Norman Rose- Ardwick Manchester?

I have one, if anyone has belt packs languishing somewhere and wants to use them. I presume it is working but don't have have anything other than a multi meter to test it with. Happy to post for cost plus a pint. I know not many of these belt packs were made but hey ho, I would rather pass on if it is of use to anyone.

You are not wrong, 2 similar circcuits floating around by the same chap. One with a transformer, one without. I thought I had seen the one without a transformer but when I searched for it again could only find the one with hence my query, subsequent to posting I realised the circuit I had linked to did not have a transformer, I could not find a way to delete my post. The components arrived today, about £2 plus postage from Bitsbox. Could someone confirm the PIN out for a Sennheiser MKH 415T with 3 pin XLR please? I think the + 12V should be on Pin 2 (Via 180R resistor) (With 0Ve to Pin 3 via 180R resistor to pin 1 and ground).

Sorry, I don't seem to be able to delete this thread which is now irrelavent. I posted: "For many years I have had a Sennheiser 415T micorphone, I do not know whether it works. Some time ago I asked about a power supply for it but connect access the thread. Does anyone have a circuit diagram for a cheap "T" type power supply for it either from battery or to convert from 48V. I have this diagram for one by Rick Chinn but for ease and lack of expense would prefer one without an audio transformer as it is primarily to test the mic." The circuit diagram I was looking at had a 1:1 150R Audio transformer where the 2 X 100uf caps are. The circuit diagram I linked to does not so I am happy to use it.

Don't worry they weren't taken that way. Have a good Christmas everyone.

It looks fine in the flesh. Pleased to have effected a modest improvement on what was already there for minimal cost and effort.

I didn't put a picture on a pro lighting group web page page because I was embarassed to, ultimately it is a village christmas tree with readily available battery LED lights on it. It looks pretty enough and has a pleasant understatedness that those (Including us) who look out on it like. Unfortunately because they are relatively low powered leds and on either flash (White) or fade (Coloured) it is hard to get a decent picture. My neighbour took this which gives an idea. The camera on my phone is not good in low light. What I did notice what that it appeared to be a lot brighter when it first switches on in the evening (At least it did last night) even though the ambient light level was higher at that time. The cynic in me wondered whether there might be some programming to reduce the brightness after a while in order to give the phenomenally long (72 Days!) quoted life off AA batteries (I will be happy with 7 days at reasonable brightness), the other part of my cynical brain says "No" you read too much into this, it is just the way batteries behave when they have rested for while. I may get a step down circuit and see if powering them off a car battery maintains the brightness better, that might be a job for after Christmas. It would also give the option of a trying a slightly higher voltage (Say 5V). I have to keep it simple because I am not necessarily around to look after it. Another consideration is that a car battery is more nickable. MIght NiMh AA batteries recharged ever 3 or 4 days be a better bet? When I have the time and inclination I will take some current readings. There are now 6 sets of lights on the tree, 3 X200 cool white and 3 X 100 coloured, runnig off 6 X battery packs each with 3 XAA Batteries in them.

Thanks for the information and input. I will have a look at the buck and boost circuits for the future. For the time being I went for the simple option. The tree is about 4M high from the top of the fence around it and about 2m around at the base, so not that big. It has been lit for the last 2 or 3 years with 3 X 200 Led Cool white strings each powerede by 3 X AAs, these are wrapped around the tree and set to step through all the available effects. I simply added 3X strings of 100 coloured LEDs equally spaced (ish) around the tree going up over the top and down the opposite side (6 vertical runs in all). These are set to slow fade. It is primarily viewed by people walking or driving close by it. For the cost (£30 plus batteries) and effort (fairly minimal) people, incuding myself seem pleased with the effect as the vertical runs give definition and a bit of colour and shape to the tree. I quite like the fact that it is not overly bright and just hope the current brightness lasts for a reasonable time. I woud regard changing the batteries once a week as acceptable, I might look at rechargeables or the car battery option. I did enquire whether they were the same LEDs in each string, I wondered whether the 50 LED strings might be brighter than the 100/200 strings. The 50, 100, 200 LED strings of the same branding (NOMA) all run off of 3 X AA batteries all quoted a battery life of 60 /72 days (Non Flashing/Flashing) The suppplier was of the opinion that they were the same LEDs. I bought the 50s first but changed them for 100s and did not (Subjectively) notice a difference in brightness. I did not have time to investgate further.

That looks very good but the power consumption looks too high for my purpose, is this using mains powered PSUs? The insurance/liability implication is the reason I am not looking to run a cable across the service road. I would happily do it for a day or two if I was around but not for the weeks it needs to be active for. Overhead is not an option. Likewise I don't want to be forever charging batteries because of other commitments, I am happy to do it once or twice a week. I am struggling to find a DC-DC converter offering 12V to 30V conversion.

On an install we used white heat shrink on socapex cablev(Off site and before terminating the cable). I can't remember the length 5 or 10 metres, draw cord through the tubing and somehow we blew air through the tube from a powerful blower with a nozzle intended for removing dust, I think it must of been the end with the draw cord coming out.

Yes, they would be of interest might need to get approval for the expense. I am prepared to give my time and some money but probably not as much as it will cost. I already cop for PAs for the switch on here and in the adjacent village and the Rememberence Sunday service for free all of which take time and effort. Couldn't find the wattage per length on the website I will have another look. 100 would be sparse, however I would look at several strings and maybe use them in conjunction with the existing lights. Would you glue on the outside of ping pong balls or drill and mount them pointing in? Thanks folks for not shouting this thread down as being too "Domestic". Some interesting info has come out.

Having spent quite a lot of time doing LED wiring over the last few years I really should have a solution but don't. Our village doesn't have a power source where the Christmas tree goes or nearby. I think they used to use 12V car batteries possibly with filament bulbs. Latterly they have been using 4 5v AA powered led sets of 200 bulbs but they are pretty dim. The tree is opposite my house separated by a service road, I don't consider running a cable across the road even at low voltage and with protection to be viable as aside from being used by the 6 houses on the Crescent it is also used by delivery vehicles and people using it as a turning loop. It would seem that most of the right Wall wart powered domestic sets are 24 or 36V, does anyone know and have experience of 12V powered sets of maybe 100 or 200 bulbs ? I have searched on line but am really looking for recommendations and experience. Has anyone successfully rewired a 33V set to 12V? I don't want to use an inverter because of power demand. I am looking to recharge the battery say 85AH once a week. As another alternative can anyone recommend a bright set of 4.5V lights?

My first thought as well.

Rightly or wrongly I opted to copy the various clips (Having roughly catalogued the tapes) to digital in the MP4 format. These I was able to edit using NCH Video Pad Editor. Subsequently I remembered Microsoft Movie Maker, now superceded in Windows 10 by Video Editor within the Paint program this actually did what I wanted very simply which was to string the clips together with a simple caption in between.

Thank you for taking the trouble to reply. Quality is not a major issue one tape was made at about 45 degrees to the stage, the others from the back of the room. Audio from the camera mic. The tapes are 19 - 25 years old and of a village revue show. The participants are starting to pop their clogs, 3 gone this year. I just want to keep the shows for aas long as possible. I have a Pinnacle Dazzle interface. L&R Audio & Composite Video on phono sockets. The Pinnnacle software is not friendly and records to I think VOB. I have NCH Debut software which is kinder and gives me various otions for file type to download to including MP4, MPG (which I think is 2), MOV, AVI and host of what I take to be phone formats. The clips I want for the upcoming funeral I have tried in various formats, none of which I can get to DVD easily so iit is going to be MP4 replayed via computer. The chap who died was a very talented comedy chronicler or village life who gave us some memorable sketches not least for the mechanics of achieving them in a village hall. The need to edit is not great, the ability to copy various clips would be good, and then add fade in and outs. Could someone give me an indication as to file size using MP4 and AVI for a 3 hour video (Total), I may of course record the show in a 2 or thre sections. Many thanks for the help with a fairly basic request. Video is not my field and there are so many different formats these days.

I would like to copy 3 off 3 hour VHS tapes to digital, original quality is poor. I have an interface, what would be the best format to store them as? I want a reasonable compromise between file size and quality. I would like to be able to copy them to DVD such that they will replay in a DVD player if neccessary but that is not absolutely essential. I have done some clips as MP4 and again as MPG (2 I think) I have various other file type options. Video and the various formats are not my area of expertise what would people suggest please, It has to be simple.

The fabricator needs to be aware that they must not rattle when used. They might need some extra bracing.

There is a further conversion in the chain because to minimise interference on cabling to the projector which runs closer to an induction loop cable than is desirable it goes via an Aten VGA to RJ45 box and is converted back at the projector. As it was re-acquainting myself with the display settings on the computer as above resolved the original problem. It is not perfect but ok.