timsabre

... and the Bluetooth range is 100ft - 2½ times the Radial's 40ft ! Yeah right, I bet it has a power rating of 20KW PMPO too,

I'm sure we discussed bluetooth DI's on here a while ago, but I cannot find the thread. I'd never heard of them before that.

It's also probably worth saying that you are actually looking for IP44 (Protected against spray up to 60° from vertical) or IP43 (Protection against water droplets deflected up to 15° from vertical). IP65 is more than you need for rain proofing. The first digit is solid objects, 6 is dust proof, 5 is "fine tools up to 1mm dia", 4 is objects up to 2.5mm dia

The trouble is with any enclosure you run into ventilation/cooling problems. Not as bad with LED fixtures as with discharge lamps but still needs considering. This thread has intrigued me because it appears that (apart from some claims from chinese suppliers) there really are no outdoor rated moving heads except the G-spot. I have seen it done with polytunnel type arched covers which are open at each end, this keeps the rain off but still allows ventilation. But for a 2-month install they would need cleaning very regularly.

In his original post he said he already has, and it is too expensive

Not for 2 months install. Inflatable domes are ok for temporary jobs but a bit of a maintenance nightmare.

Er yes, but they don't use a transformer/rectifier as the power supply. The controller does the polarity reversal.

Are you sure, I don't think this is true. All christmas lights I have seen for 5+ years have a little switching regulator in the power supply box.

"This listing (152079610855 ) has been removed, or this item isn't available."

Just to complete this story, I fitted the new power module today and the desk was restored to life. Fairly simple fix apart from the million screws holding it together. Why it failed is another story, could be just age (3 yrs is not too impressive though) or maybe a power problem, though nothing else has been affected. While it's been down we borrowed a newer X32 from a local school and it was interesting to see the changes made in the design. Screw heads all over the front panel and rubbery buttons were the most obvious changes, could not tell if the faders had also been updated.

Electronic Music Services in Southend have come up trumps, direct drop ship from Behringer, hooray.

Thanks I'll try some phone calls in the morning. Usually work better than emails...

not pc at all, totally bespoke

Our X32 has just died... just after the 3 years warranty expired. On power up there is a very brief flash of a few buttons, then nothing. It appears to be a fault with the power supply module which is an easy swap, but I cannot find anywhere to buy a replacement (except from USA) and Behringer say it must be returned to an authorised service centre. Does anyone know if it is possible to buy replacement boards/modules in UK?

Indeed, N-channel fets used to switch the ground side are usually 60V. I wouldn't be too surprised at 31V, everything has a custom switch mode supply these days which is inherently regulated, so maybe 31V just works out best for the LED stack.

You'd be better off with a DMX-pwm dimmer module in between the psu and the led string. Most rgb dimmer modules will probably do 30v even if they say 24v, the limit will be the regulator used to make 5v for the microprocessor. Dimming the mains will be disappointing.

That device should work. Most desks that use floppy have ordinary computer drives, with a floppy connector and 4 pin floppy power connector. Just unscrew the old one, insert a USB emulator one, and it should work straight away! This is not necessarily the case, we are not talking about a PC here, this is a very old console from the days when the floppy drive was the latest thing and a microcontroller of that time had to use all sorts of tricks to be able to read the data off it fast enough. Avo consoles used custom motherboards and will have had bespoke software to control the drive, which may or may not work with a floppy emulator.

I would try telephoning Adam at Avolites as suggested in that forum post. A lot of the Avo people have been there from the start and will know the rolacue desks, but their main support system is understandably for their current products so you may need a bit of persistence to get through to someone who knows. Individual email addresses are on their website too, but I would try phoning if you can.

This is my experience with mains dimmable LED on all triac dimmers I have tried, and I've tried most of the professional brands. The problem is the triacs latch on due to the capacitive load rather than switching when they are meant to. Trailing edge (IGBT) dimmers work much better, I think ETC do have a type of IGBT dimmer so maybe that is what they used to test. But you still can't dim below about 20%.

Sorry yes, terminology wrong. But, yes, DMX driven. Should dim smoothly to 0% if it's DMX. What Tomo was saying applied to mains-dimmable drivers (which is presumably what you had before)

edit: sorry... duplicate post

Those aren't dimmers, they are LED drivers. What are you controlling them from just out of interest, DMX?

It's physically big though. Hard to fit in a S4 mini. A mains-dimming LED driver, which works out the dim level by measuring the cutoff point on the mains waveform, is fairly simple in concept. In real life it's hard because the mains waveform is often badly distorted and a lot of mains dimmers are rubbish and can't handle a very small very capacitive load.

Not familiar with that desk, but when this happens to me it is usually a master fader somewhere set to Off. Is there a way to view the memory contents so you can see whether it has actually recorded the intensity?

No.... it's a DC power supply. You need an AC power supply with centre tap, basically a transformer in a box.