timsabre

Also of course if the jack gets plugged into a mixer input rather than a DI, most mixers have balanced jack inputs so a stereo jack cable connected to a mono jack socket at the source end would give some weird half balanced signal which would not sound right, as the ring terminal would just be floating about.

Wire them unbalanced/mono - short ring and sleeve together. Guitars with active pickup (battery) sometimes use the sleeve of the jack to link the ring+sleeve terminals to power up the pickup/preamp so will not work with a stereo jack. Mono/stereo detection on keyboards sometimes works the same way. Sometimes they use switched jacks and use the switch terminal to do this in which case stereo jack would work, but if you want to be sure then stick with wiring like a mono jack.

That's what I was thinking... And you do lose quite a bit of brightness going through a mirror, apart from all tge difficulties rigging it and lining it up.

If yoy can find an old overhead projector, use the mirror assembly off that, they are surface silvered. Though many projectors can be used vertically and you might be making this harder than it needs to be.

EV is a good make yes, possibly on the pricey side as a "brand", but there are about a million options. Alto Truesonic powered range are well regarded as a cheap option. In the meantime the main thing you need to avoid is people driving a distorted signal into the speakers because that's what kills the horns / HF drivers. This happens when they can't get enough volume so they crank the volume on the source / input mixer / whatever you've got on there and it clips. So you need to get a good gain structure set up so that when someone plugs in their phone or tablet they get a good volume out without having to turn everything up to max. If it's a sports hall you might not be able to do this as the speakers won't be loud enough to fill the room...

Do you really find that works though? They normally just redline some other part of the system to get the volume they want and now everything is a square wave.Paul is right, it needs to be a loud enough system that it can run comfortably at whatever input they throw at it. Reasonable quality (i.e. not disco) powered speakers which have inbuilt protection have worked out best for me.

Powered speakers usually include limiters so are much harder to destroy, but that's only any good if you have budget to replace the whole shebang.

You can do that and some of the PMR/walkie talkie interfaces use call light to trigger TX mode, but it can quickly get confusing when people press it accidentally (which seems to happen a lot as people fumble for the mic switch). A push switch in the signal path should work if local control is all that is needed.

Have you tried turning up the dimmer channel to full a few seconds before you need it, but with strobe channel set to 0? (which according to the manual should not strobe) . Or the other way round, but I would have thought the Pearl will have the Strobe channel as LTP so that will probably have a value set on it anyway. I don't know if that will help, but if it's gone into some sort of standby mode because both channels are at 0, that might wake it up.

Blown triac usually manifests as channel stuck on full, can be caused by lamp blowing - do you know the history of the fault?

As far as I remember (and it's been a while) there is nothing to snap off, the PCB itself is the sensor, it does some sort of conductivity thing with the fluid.

I presume you have asked Avo. I wouldn't be surprised if they still have the parts in a drawer somewhere.

It is not a standard part, it was a custom PCB assembly made specially by Jem in the pre-Martin days. The Jem manufacturing facility is still operating in the UK (one of the very few) under Martin management so if the official Martin disti does not turn anything up, it might be worth a call to them - Martin Manufacturing in Louth, N Lincs.

I haven't used those exact ones. Have a look at this page which describes how you set up that type of module I linked. Basically you have to connect it up to a serial port to set fixed IP address and Wifi network details using a PC application they provide. https://www.hackster.io/makerrelay/esp8266-wifi-5v-1-channel-relay-delay-module-iot-smart-home-e8a437Then you send TCP packets to it to switch the relay. Looks like a bit of a bodge up that might not work reliably. I have done a lot of stuff with ESP8266 arduino boards e.g. Adafruit Feather Huzzah. Generally those ones you set a static IP and hard code the wifi network and login details for it in the arduino code (of which there are plenty of working demo examples). It would be simple to connect a relay module to it. Then to operate it you can send an http request with parameters e.g. http://192.168.0.99/input.htm?a=0 or ?a=1 to operate the relay.

The floor looks like what's left after the parquet blocks have been removed...

You just stick it to the surface of the glass with the water, it is really quick, stays stuck until you peel it off, and it's a lot easier than mucking about with tape. Rather you than me trying to stick foil with gaffer tape and getting it off cleanly afterwards.

You don't need to gaffer it. Read his post, the water spray method he describes works really well and leaves no residue on the windows.

You might be receiving upside down DMX. Depending on how the decoding is implemented in the firmware, upside down DMX can look like actual DMX with all the values at 255 (including the start code) so the device would say it is getting DMX but do nothing. Or some devices act as if all channels are 255.

It will draw less power, but strobe power is extremely spiky because of the way they work. Basically you charge up a big capacitor and then discharge it into the tube - the current drawn as the tube fires and the cap begins to recharge can be pretty enormous, certainly well over 13 amps, even with it dimmed down.

Look on bax shop or Thomann rather than ebay. They will be able to advise you if you aren't sure what will work.

Correct. It takes more power than a UK 13A plug can supply. I am not sure how it comes to have a 13A domestic plug on it, the plug (from your photo in post #11) is an adaptor fastened over a Euro/Shuko plug which is rated 16A. If you have been sold it with this plug fitted, whoever sold it has done a bad thing.

This is getting a bit worrying...

It's not really. A 4m or 6m drape has a lot of material in it, someone out there is making it to earn their livelihood and pay their bills. I'm sure we've all tried to put on events with little or no budget but you have to be realistic about what is possible.

We use stuff which is commonly called "casement" or "NDFR", this is already treated fire retardant until it gets wet. It's good for masking but not very thick, I would not call it "drape" but it is similar to the tablecloth material you linked to. https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/293046054362 or fore a more legit but more expensive supplier https://www.stage-electrics.co.uk/shop/sales/scenic-materials/fabric-material/calico-sheeting-and-casement/product.aspx?code=318-6604&nr=true

I haven't used those ones but they normally have stand alone control so you can set them to full brightness without a DMX input.