IRW Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 Hi All,Does anyone have a schematic for a Pulsar Rack Pack? (Specifically, the 6x5a hardwired version, but I image they'll all be pretty similar) Extra points if you can point me in the direction of an RS order number or some such! Although the channel works, I've got a feeling I should probably replace the component on the bottom right! (Presumably some sort of choke?)http://www.irwdesign.com/br/IMG_2840.JPG Thanks, Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 ...an RS order number or some such!Custom made so you'll not find one off the shelf. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IRW Posted February 1, 2014 Author Share Posted February 1, 2014 ...an RS order number or some such!Custom made so you'll not find one off the shelf. D'oh! Thanks Brian, looks like a phone call to Pulsar will be on the cards! Am I correct in calling it a choke? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 Am I correct in calling it a choke?Yep. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timsabre Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 Although it has clearly been hot, it's probably not necessary to replace it, they can run very hot before damage occurs to the enamelled wire. Take the disc of PCB off the top and have a look at it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IRW Posted February 1, 2014 Author Share Posted February 1, 2014 Although it has clearly been hot, it's probably not necessary to replace it, they can run very hot before damage occurs to the enamelled wire. Take the disc of PCB off the top and have a look at it. Thanks Tim, Here's a photo with the disc off:http://www.irwdesign.com/br/IMG_2842.JPGAlthough it's somewhat discoloured, it does look pretty intact. Would the general consensus be that this is probably* still fine? What might have caused this to have happened? Slight overload over a period of time?*usual caveats about long-distance advice accepted! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timsabre Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 Mmm, it does look kinda cooked, and it is possible that some of the windings may be shorting. However it's only there for RF suppression so the worst case problem is that the RF suppression of the channel is reduced. The most likely cause is long term dimming of a capacitive load (such as something with a switch mode power supply in it) which would cause a lot of high energy spikes to be absorbed by the choke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boatman Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 ... or it's been overloaded by having a 10A fuse fitted in a 5A dimmer channel! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaareolai Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 Mmm, it does look kinda cooked, and it is possible that some of the windings may be shorting. However it's only there for RF suppression so the worst case problem is that the RF suppression of the channel is reduced. If choke is taken out for measuring, probably best, at least pricewise, just to rewind it with new copper wire. And at the same time replace those yellow capasitors, at least that at the right, which I presume is part in the snubber circuit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Allen Posted February 2, 2014 Share Posted February 2, 2014 You could disconnect the choke and megger between it and ground to check its integrity. Have a look at the choke as you test it to see if there is any arcing between windings. The other test is for shorted turns, using a shorted turns tester. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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