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Any advice about getting these old lamps through pat test.

Passed electrically, reason for failure given lack of cord grip.

I think the internal wiring should be renewed ...can I just do this and run it out to the existing flex using a ceramic terminal connector, or solder?

I think its actually pretty well gripped inside although not obvious from the outside .... any ideas for a quick fix that will look acceptable.

 

cheerPhil

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I thought that the Patt. 23 had an internal cord grip.

 

If you have to re-wire, then silicone cable or a fibreglass sheath must be used. Ceramic terminal blocks should be used if a cable has to be joined. Solder should not used within the body of a lantern.

 

Who has failed these lanterns? Is there scope for a retest in their current condition?

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Item 12 on the exploded diagram of the Patt 123 is cable clamp.

 

From Strand Archive Patt 123 specification "A strain relief gland shall secure 30-in. (0.75m) external length of 3-conductor heat-resisting sheathed cable with earth/ground conductor"

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It depends on the age of the Patt 123.

 

If they are from mid 1967 onwards then they should have an external cable grip, although designs changed slightly with time.

 

Earlier units (which originally had 3 seperate leads for live, neutral and earth)had an internal clamp for live and neutral, which wouldn't be considered suitable today.

 

It is possible to fit a modern cable grip to these units but a little metal work is required to drill out the hole and ensure that there is enough clearence for the focus mechanism.

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It depends on the age of the Patt 123.

 

If they are from mid 1967 onwards then they should have an external cable grip, although designs changed slightly with time.

 

Earlier units (which originally had 3 seperate leads for live, neutral and earth)had an internal clamp for live and neutral, which wouldn't be considered suitable today.

 

It is possible to fit a modern cable grip to these units but a little metal work is required to drill out the hole and ensure that there is enough clearence for the focus mechanism.

 

The usual place you find after market glands fitted is at the rear of the bulbous undersection on either the left or the right side - take care to centre your bit when drilling or the locking nut for the gland won't fit :P (I only messed two up - honest!)

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I find it mildly amusing that something reliable enough to still be in service after this amount of time can be failed because of a poor cable clamping design - er, 40 years later, we decide it's no good!

 

Even more amusing that folk want to keep a 40 year old instrument working rather than pension them off!

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I find it mildly amusing that something reliable enough to still be in service after this amount of time can be failed because of a poor cable clamping design - er, 40 years later, we decide it's no good!

 

Even more amusing that folk want to keep a 40 year old instrument working rather than pension them off!

 

 

If it ain't broke..... ;)

 

 

 

 

Oh wait... :blink:

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thanks folks. I'm a little clearer ......... they are of different dates, I have a few with external cable grip, which we are still using.

I'm afraid budget cuts don't allow me to retire any of these ..... as long as there safe. I doubt the technician looked inside them, just plugged them into his test unit, and is unaware that they have an inside grip. I feel the crumbly insulation is more of a concern than the cable grip.

I could do a bit of work on them. Where would I get a suitable cable grip ...... searches are confusing these things seem to have various names.

 

Phil

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type the model number into ebay. You will see some of the prices they go for, being 'vintage'. You could buy a lot of replacements !

 

I hear what you're saying but I prefer the large diameter Fresnel lens of the 123 against that on the Acclaim or Minuette - it seems to give a better field (but then that may be a wholly subjective judgement based on the fact I grew up with the things!).

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