Guest klubbock Posted July 3, 2006 Share Posted July 3, 2006 Hi, I wonder if any of you could help me. I want to build a flightcase with a detatchable lid and I am a bit lost as to what to do now. I have hinges and handles but im a bit confused about extrusions. What kind of extrusions do I need for the case? Do I need different extrusions for the lid? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Lewis Posted July 3, 2006 Share Posted July 3, 2006 erm... this is a sound related question??? Anyhow, here goes.... Two approaches: 1) Buy one, as the extra tools and stuff will cost more than what you save doing it yourself. Furthermore, when you discover a second hand flightcase purveyor, you won't want to make them ever again ;-) 2) make one, as you don't want to waste time on peripheral pleasures such as beer and sex.... BTW, a detachable or lift off lid doesn't need a hinge... Make sure you have a large, well lit workshop with a flat floor. An air compressor is good, otherwise you need a Lazytong riveter. You will also need an endless supply of 5mm grooved steel rivets, 5mm drills, a jigsaw, router, mitre saw / chop saw. Select flightcase material in correct thickness - your extrusion will need to fit it. Choose something with hard wearing outside and a finished inside, unless you are gluing foam or other finish on all of the insides. A proper case will use either equal leg "L" shaped feather edging or christmas tree edging. With the former you butt the wood together and rivet the extrusion to the outside. Many firms use a long leg wood staple gun to make the carcass rigid first. The christmas tree extrusion has the wood slot into its two grooves, and it is easier to hold in place with a centre punch prior to riveting. Edging does not need to go fully to the corners (the ball corners will cover this) and it needs to stop short of the opening edges, as there will be mating extrusion to fit in. Once you have the carcass together, select either male & female extrusion, or hybrid extrusion and a very good mitre saw. This will preferably be an electric chop saw capable of mitre joints and fitted with an compatible aluminium cutting blade.USE OF A WOODWORKING BLADE IS LIKELY TO RIP YOUR FINGERS OFF THE VERY FIRST TIME YOU USE IT. Yes, the shouting was intentional! Make the mating extrusion mitres, leaving gaps where the butterfly catches and / or hinged stays need to go. Rivet in place. Strap the case together, and rivet the ball corners, and edge corner pieces. Then rivet the catches, hinge (needs to be proper flightcase hinging, not domestic stuff) and rout / jigsaw out handles and rivet the flipback handles in place. Fix castors if needed, using a wooden load spreader and T nuts to bolt it on. I wouldn't use anything other than Guitel castors [even if they are French ;-) ] Your first case will not be perfect. In fact, it may take two or three before you perfect your technique. By now, yo will either have invested as much time and money as buying new would cost, or you will be hooked, and will flightcase everything in sight! Have fun, but check whether it's worth your while taking the DIY route.... Simon PS a circular saw or bench saw is pretty handy for cutting your case material to size! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beware Posted July 3, 2006 Share Posted July 3, 2006 Another popular way is to make the box fully sealed from plywood (ie a cuboid), then stick your aluminium facing on it, and then chop it into two pieces so you have a base and a lid. Then slap the extrusion on and the hinges, etc... Of course making sure all your corners are square helps immensly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon MFR Posted July 5, 2006 Share Posted July 5, 2006 Just buy one dude....sounds like a much of a muchness, especially if you live in a flat..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peternewman Posted July 5, 2006 Share Posted July 5, 2006 erm... this is a sound related question???Moved to General tech chat. :D However in future can member use the report post button to flag such issues, it'll generally get a response quicker. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hambone Posted July 5, 2006 Share Posted July 5, 2006 I used a 3d package to design my flightcases around my gear, ergonomics, permanent internal wiring and cabling, mobility, accessibility, and protection from Neanderthal drunks! I shock-mounted the shelves for extra protection. I also designed them so they wheel from the van straight back into the studio, so I can gig with the same rig I rehearse and prepare with. They're built out of glued 'n screwed 12mm ply, with castors, handles, shock mountings, etc from various sources, mostly from Allan Gordon and Screwfix. I'm really happy with them. They're far more functional than any off-the-shelf solution, and a lot cheaper, too. Getting the black paint out of the carpet is another issue, though... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest klubbock Posted July 5, 2006 Share Posted July 5, 2006 thank you so much for all of your replies. what is mating extrusion Simon? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Lewis Posted July 5, 2006 Share Posted July 5, 2006 They're built out of glued 'n screwed 12mm ply, with castors, handles, shock mountings, etc from various sources, mostly from Allan Gordon and Screwfix. But that style of construction means that they aren't really flightcases in the "thin material rivetted together onto aluminium extrusion for light weight but good strength" sense of the word ? ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hambone Posted July 5, 2006 Share Posted July 5, 2006 You're right. They're just wooden boxes, I guess! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete McCrea Posted July 5, 2006 Share Posted July 5, 2006 www.flightcasewarehouse.co.uk then go and have a beer. For the more Rolls Royce of the flight case world try 5 Star. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulears Posted July 5, 2006 Share Posted July 5, 2006 The box and cut method certainly makes for a solid case, but they are really heavy. They are also not that strong at the joints if you use lighter ply - so using extrusion for the corners makes it stronger, but then you are back to panel construction. After making quite a few, I have to say that buying one, machine made is ALWAYS better. I can spot my own cases a mile off - and that's not good! I'd stick another vote in for flightcase warehouse who made a big format mixer case for me with a dog box, for not a lot of money - I worked out that if I'd bought all the hardware, hexaboard, ply, etc I would have saved around £25, that's all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Lewis Posted July 6, 2006 Share Posted July 6, 2006 thank you so much for all of your replies. what is mating extrusion Simon? The male and female type goes on opposite edges, one protrudes, the other is recessed. Protrusion locks into recessed section and gives a good mating edge. With hybrid extrusion, the profile is such that it mates with itself when one piece is turned around through 180 degrees. See the Adam Hall site for examples.... Try searching for item 6304 Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayselway Posted July 6, 2006 Share Posted July 6, 2006 Or in Yorkshire there's Jetlife Cases 2p. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eviljohn2 Posted July 7, 2006 Share Posted July 7, 2006 For the more Rolls Royce of the flight case world try 5 Star.Wow, I've not seen a single 5 Star case that hasn't perished very quickly at the clasps, hinges or other joints! :blink: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted July 8, 2006 Share Posted July 8, 2006 Wow, I've not seen a single 5 Star case that hasn't perished very quickly at the clasps, hinges or other joints! :blink: Ive seen lots that are still going strong after a tough hire life! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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