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Abstract VR8


Rich

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Posted

Hi there.

 

I've just been given four Abstract VR8's from a club clear out. Are they any good?

 

They are pretty battered, one has a cracked mirror, one doesn't do anything when plugged in and two have notes on them saying the DMX isn't working correctly. However, three power up fine, strike almost instantly and work together linked via DMX in the stand alone show mode.

 

Does anybody know where the best place in Manchester would be for getting a quote for repair?

 

Cheers folks. Rich

Posted

they're quite nice :-) we have them at the litten tree I work @ in alti,

 

I assume you've tried the fuse for the one that isnt powering up? simple things ;-)

 

have you tried DMX controlling them via a board yourself?

Posted
they're quite nice :-) we have them at the litten tree I work @ in alti,

 

I assume you've tried the fuse for the one that isnt powering up? simple things ;-)

 

have you tried DMX controlling them via a board yourself?

 

I haven't actually got my own DMX controller to try them with, the only signal I can give them is the one they send out for running together through the inbuilt programs.

 

I've had a look at the internal fuse and it looks ok, but I'll try the one on the power in socket. However, I don't think it's the fuse because when you stick in an IEC, you can hear it click as it arcs on the contacts, which would indicate it's drawing power.

 

Thanks for you help. Rich

Posted

Hi Rich,

 

There are basically 2 sets of things going on when you apply power to a VR8 - Firstly, there's no control over the lamp strike, so it should try and strike the lamp as soon as you power it up. Secondly, the 'brain' should start - reseting the motors and powering the display up.

 

These two things are independent, so even if the brain doesn't start the lamp should still try. If you fixture is completely dead, then it could be that you have a faulty lamp and a problem with the low voltage power supply for the logic (brain) - for example.

 

I think there may be a fuse on the circuit board (with the display on it) inside the fixture. If I remember you can get to this by dropping the bottom off the fixture - undoing the allen bolts on either side. If you have to go into the main body of the fixture then it gets a bit more complicated - and make sure you hire an octopus for putting it back together!!! The fuse may have gone which means your display won't power up...

 

As far as the lamp problem, you say the IEC arcs, so maybe its trying to strike - if so, you should hear a high pitched 'buzz' which is the ignitor trying. You could swap the lamp over from a working fixture and see if that works.

 

Hope this is helpful.... let me know how you get on.

Posted
I haven't actually got my own DMX controller to try them with, the only signal I can give them is the one they send out for running together through the inbuilt programs.

 

 

I think they actually use DMX to talk to each other, albeit with a different start code. So if the other units are showing they are in slave mode then DMX receiving should be fine also.

 

Ben

Posted

Nice one, thanks guys.

 

Looking at the the working three, they were all set to CE mode. Would normal DMX512 become incompatible with CE settings on? If so, I think they might have slung them for nothing because they seem to work fine to me.

 

All fuses appear to be fine in the non worker, and there is absolutely no life from it, so I think my best bet is to let somebody look at it.

Posted
Nice one, thanks guys.

 

Looking at the the working three, they were all set to CE mode. Would normal DMX512 become incompatible with CE settings on? If so, I think they might have slung them for nothing because they seem to work fine to me.

 

All fuses appear to be fine in the non worker, and there is absolutely no life from it, so I think my best bet is to let somebody look at it.

 

 

You might want to give a lighting co in Hull called Tega(http://www.tega.co.uk/index.asp) as I do beleve they have somthing to do with the development of them as if you ask for help via the abstract website it goes to them

 

 

 

Mark W-E

 

24Seven

Posted

Hi Rich,

 

I think CE mode makes them work with some of the dedicated abstract controllers - those with inbuilt prgrams, they all used standard DMX 512.

 

Forgot so say earlier - if you try them off a DMX controller (non-abstract) then you will need to use a phas reverse lead (one that swaps pins 2 nd 3 round) as VR8s use pin 2 hot.

Posted
Hi Rich,

 

I think CE mode makes them work with some of the dedicated abstract controllers - those with inbuilt prgrams, they all used standard DMX 512.

 

Forgot so say earlier - if you try them off a DMX controller (non-abstract) then you will need to use a phas reverse lead (one that swaps pins 2 nd 3 round) as VR8s use pin 2 hot.

 

As far as I know they were simply plugged into the existing rig with no phase reversal. This would explain why there was a DMX fault on all of them!

 

Looks like I've got three perfecly good scanners for nowt!

Posted

ive only ever been inside a vr8 once, and I had a nightmare getting it back together.

 

look for a thermal trip ( I cant remember if they're self resetting in those units) if is tripped, its gone for a reason, check the fan.

 

I also cant remember if those units have a relay for switching lamp on/off. if this is the case, you could have a board or transformer fault, that is killing the electronics and the lamp.

 

I'd volunteer to help you, but theres no way im going inside one of those b***ers again :)

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Hi Rich, see you have the VR8's - yes, they were used with phase reversal leads on the rig, but when John took two of them off the rig, he forgot to take out the phase reversal leads, hence the far quad of the rig going off for a night whilst I hunted for the issue (if you remember he left just after orange tour a while back). Gotta love the old cabling all over that rig :unsure: sorted now :D

 

I had a chat with Abstract about the problem with the non-mover, and he took me through some "test" sequences on it, and he came to the remote conclusion that it was a PCB problem, potentially quite serious for the unit. Nothing to do with the Lamp though - it's a while ago, but seem to remember there being an issue with the ballast on it, if that's gone, then possibly ignitor too - whatever you do, don't meter the output of the ignitor tho!!! (boom goes little yellow meter)

 

The other 3 always worked okay, albeit a little unpredictable, but I put that down to the guy that programmed the desk before me - it had other problems with some of the trakkies too. Hence, John (Harry P) took them off the rig, cause nobody was allowed to do anything, let alone program the desk - as you remember I guess.

 

Hope you get it sorted

Jay :)

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Righty,

 

After digging around this is all I found.

 

We've recently taken over managing the technical for a local club who own 6 VR8's.

We're putting in a new control system and need to write fixture profiles for these.

Does anyone have access to a DMX chart of any kind either with just channels or with channels and values.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Steve

Posted

Sounds to me like something other than DMX has been plugged into the one that is not responding at some point, try locating the DMX transceiver chip on the board, it is either a problem with this or the resistors around the DMX input on the board going open circuit.

 

HTH.

Frosty.

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