Elation Uni Bar...

[Srobo512]

Hello fellow blue roomers,

 

I recently acquired a pair of Elation Uni Bar's. I knew when I bought them that they had schuko outlets on them as standard.

 

Now my question is how and which way would I be best to replace the schuko with a 15/16 amp outlet?

 

The uni bar's construction is such that the end cap's unscrew and allow you to slide the DMX and display section out and the power section (power in/out + fuse) out also. This means that the main body of the unit is effectively a U channel meaning I have a solid side to possibly cut and fit another outlet.

 

The screw holes are approximately 37mm (+/- 1mm) and a 16 amp panel mount I had laying around has mountain holes approximately sized 48mm (+/- 2mm)

 

Also what is the size of the mounting holes on a panel mount 15 Amp?

 

2nd main point is that there is a 3.5mm jack on the control panel that allows you to use an 'external remote' as such for local control other than the tiny on-board potentiometer. Where would I source one of these from as ADJ and Elation don't stock them as parts for the unibar.

 

clicky for photos >>> https://www.dropbox....z0SQU2bEDa?dl=0

 

sorry for the long 1st post

 

Thanks,

 

Sam

[James Aleksic]

I can't help with your first question - but I know that a lot of ADJ products can be controlled via their UC-3 remote (which has a 1/4 inch jack connector). Elation is run by ADJ Group so I presume this might be the remote you are looking for? (http://www.adj.com/uc3-controller) It doesn't say specifically say that it is compatible with the Uni Bar, but it is the only remote that I can see that they make - so might be worth a look

[p.k.roberts]

I might approach this a bit differently; I'm guessing that the remote you seek is more likely to be the one pictured in this very similar product -

 

http://www.elationlighting.com/pdffiles/uni-pak-2.pdf

 

but by the time you've messed about and found two of those and managed to buy them, wouldn't it be easier (and probably cheaper) to use a small simple DMX controller, something like this?

 

http://www.thomann.de/gb/stairville_ddc6_dmx_controller.htm

 

As for re-engineering to change the on-board socket, why not just make a short adapter cable?

[jonathanhill]

Would it be easier to engineer something so that powerCON drain and source panel mounts could be used in place of the Shuko? Maybe a plate with a 24mm circular cut-out for the powerCON?

[Srobo512]

I can't help with your first question - but I know that a lot of ADJ products can be controlled via their UC-3 remote (which has a 1/4 inch jack connector). Elation is run by ADJ Group so I presume this might be the remote you are looking for? (http://www.adj.com/uc3-controller) It doesn't say specifically say that it is compatible with the Uni Bar, but it is the only remote that I can see that they make - so might be worth a look

 

Hello James, The UC3 controller wont work with the UNI BAR as it's primary function is to be a dimmer/switch pack with no built in features. The UC3 remote will only work with fixtures that have built in shows/gobos/patters/strobe etc. Also it uses a 6.35mm stereo jack.

 

 

I'm guessing that the remote you seek is more likely to be the one pictured in this very similar product - http://www.elationli...s/uni-pak-2.pdf

 

but by the time you've messed about and found two of those and managed to buy them, wouldn't it be easier (and probably cheaper) to use a small simple DMX controller, something like this?

http://www.thomann.d..._controller.htm

 

 

 

Yes that is the remote control I'm after :) as for the DMX controlller that is not an option as 1) I already have one and 2) They will most likely be used with follow spots during a show hence the need for a remote for local control.

 

 

 

As for re-engineering to change the on-board socket, why not just make a short adapter cable? I have travel adaptors at the moment which aren't great and are white! Id prefer to use 15 amp as all our stock (cable/lanterns/dimmers) is already on 15 amp outlets. Also adapter cables can and will get lost. The final problem with just adaptor cables is that if the unit is being used in 'switch pack' mode then the attached appliance MUST have Live and Neutral connected to the relevant pins and with schuko you can quite easily flip the plug and reverse that.

 

 

 

 

Would it be easier to engineer something so that powerCON drain and source panel mounts could be used in place of the Shuko? Maybe a plate with a 24mm circular cut-out for the powerCON?

 

I like the idea of power CON but not of having adaptors to various outputs - 15A/16A/13A etc. The hole that the schuko outlet sits in is 45mm in diameter and that of a 16A socket wiring connections is only 35mm

[alistermorton]

Is this any help regarding the 15A option?

[Srobo512]

Is this any help regarding the 15A option?

 

YES that is a great help, actually!

 

Thank You

[Srobo512]

***UPDATE*** http://www.blue-room.org.uk/public/style_emoticons/default/yahoo.gif

 

So after considering my options I decided to go ahead an make a complete new 'outlet panel' if you will.

 

Around 30 minutes were spent making a somewhat detailed drawing of the outline from the original outlet panel.

 

It was made from 2 mm aluminium, 15 mm hole for fuse holder, 16 x 14 mm hole for cable clamp, 86 mm wide x 82 mm tall. 3.5 mm recess top and bottom on one side for end cap screws

 

My panel kept the same external, fuse holder and cable clamp measurements but I ha to fit in a 50 mm opening to recess the 15 amp panel mount socket. It was a tight squeeze to say the least!

 

Don't know how to put photos directly on a post soooo here ya go >>> https://www.dropbox....P2bdiRYcRVdWTa?

 

Step by step.

 

1. I've cut the basic shape out from a 300 mm x 300 mm square of 2 mm Aluminium. Far from fitting the dimmer at this point. Hacksaw a square out then used end pincers to cut out the recess for end cap screws, generally cleaned up with a flat file.

 

2. After 10 minutes of rough shaping with a flat file, I compare it to the original plate too see how far off I am.

 

3. 1st test fit into the dimmer and it was a tad tight! Width is perfect and just needs tidying up on the edges and levelling off to make it straight http://www.blue-room.org.uk/public/style_emoticons/default/redface.gif

 

4. 2nd test fit in to dimmer after 20 mins filing and it slides in like a dream. YAY! De burred with file so not to catch my little fingers.....

 

5. Ahhh, the 50mm hole. What a pain in the @rse http://www.blue-room.org.uk/public/style_emoticons/default/tantrum.gif I'm sure I had a 50mm hole saw somewhere. Which I found after I had made BOTH plates. *Unhappy Face* Anyhow, I Marked out the 50mm circle where I wanted it with an empty silicone tube which magically happened to be 50 mm!!! (to my surprise). I held the plate down on a scrap piece of ply with wood screws and washers, so that I did not damage what I had done up to now. Now the drilling, 1st off I went round and drilled a dozen 7mm holes about 5mm apart. This gave me a hole-y circle that somewhat resembled a Socapex connector without cabling http://www.blue-room.org.uk/public/style_emoticons/default/nerd.gif. I then went round again with a 3mm drill bit, drilling in between the original holes. This further weakened the material I wanted to remove. To finally rid the unwanted material I used a flat head screw driver (possibly 6mm) and a rubber mallet and 'sliced/bashed' my way through any remaining aluminium. Now at this point I have a very Jaggered? circle. Hacksaw gets the blade removed and placed through the hole I have made. I now set about cutting as much material away as possible to avoid filing for days on end.... Remove hacksaw and offered the socket up to the hole and it's clear that there is a LOT of filing to do, despite my efforts. An hour and a brew fly by and I have a hole for my socket. Now you may note that its not quite circle, mainly right hand side (PICTURE 6) but that doesn't bother me - even though I can be a perfectionist at times!

 

Phew - that was the biggest ball ache done.

 

7. I have positioned/angled the socket in my favoured position. Marked the socket and plate as to easily line up again. Drilled a 4 mm hole for a standard M 3.5 thread electrical screw that the socket already had threads for!

 

8. Drilled the second hole as per above and countersunk them to give it a nicer appeal - to me at least.

 

9. Moment of truth. Did It with the socket in place???

 

 

 

 

YES! is the answer http://www.blue-room.org.uk/public/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif

 

10. For got to take pictures here but I drilled a 16 mm hole using a paddle bit from an old woodworking kit (naughty, I know, but it got the job done http://www.blue-room.org.uk/public/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif ) Now I realise that the fuse holder only requires a 15 mm hole but it has thin metal tabs on the underside which can be bent to hold it in place. Now for the cable clamp. I did think ahead this time and NOT drill a 16 mm hole straight away as it only requires 16 mm x 14 mm. So instead a 13 mm hole was drilled and then files to shape accordingly. Still ended up being to big even though it did fit :(

 

11. 1st test fit with everything in place. aaaaaannnnndddd IT ALL FITS. Weather that was down to my measurements or not I have no idea? Anyhow, only problem now it that the end cover fouls on the fuse holder flare coverey thingy. A half round file soon sorted that problem and I have a somewhat fully converted dimmer!!!

 

12. This plate is for the other dimmer and basically is the exact same as above apart from my 50 mm hole is more like a 50 mm hole. You may also not the extra bolt to the right of the cable gland. This is the earth 'stud'. On the original plate the is a riveted thread the protrudes around 20mm on the inside. To which attach the earth from the socket and the case. My Version simply is a bolt through the plate which the original ring terminals bolt to on the underside, earthing the plate and socket

 

12.5 No photos for this bit. It had now come time to paint. Matte black was my colour of choice. I spent 5 minutes on each plate 'roughing them up' with scotch brite to make the paint adhere better. I strip the solid copper core from some 2.5 mm twin and earth and appropriately bend to hold the plates through a bolt hole. These copper cores get clamped to a steel bar screwed to my shed door. Distantly spaced apart, I had enough space to give them an even 1st covering. I went out on the Saturday from 12 - 6 so it gave them plenty of time to dry in the warm shed. Once I returned I rubbed them down, again using scotch brite in preparation for a second coat of paint. 18 hours later they were finished

 

13. All assembled at this point. You also may have noticed that the socket has changed colour. This is because the white one I had borrowed whilst the black one was on back order.

 

14. 1st test with the 15 Amp socket. I had to wait a couple days to test as I had no 15 A plugs available. Once they arrived I made some 15 - 13 amp converters.

 

Alas I have finished. Rather simple project If I'm honest. Probably spent 6 hours from drawing to testing in total. Cost was only around £6 for the socket. Aluminium I had in our stock and tools were already mine. Speaking of which, this used very basic ones. Files - flat, round, half round, square, triangular. Drill and appropriate bits, Hacksaw, screwdriver's, hammer, end pincers, snips and pliers.

 

I hope this has been of some use to someone somewhere.

 

Ta Ta For Now,

Sam

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[alistermorton]

Sorted.

 

It's the sort of "exercise" we were given at the EMI apprentice training school - make a hole for a socket using only small drills, chisel, saw and files. In our case though the instructor would reject our work (repeataedly) if there was light visible around the mating edges when held up to a window http://www.blue-room.org.uk/public/style_emoticons/default/mad.gif.