Jump to content

Idenden Brushcoate


Recommended Posts

Hi All,


I'm looking for a cheaper alternative to Idenden Brushcoate to add texture to some (wooden) steel girder scenery for a set.

Idenden is great but expensive at £68.00 + shipping +VAT from Flints.


I was considering using some generic type of Artex instead..


Any ideas or recommendations would be welcome.



Link to comment
Share on other sites

You're going to struggle to beat £6.80/litre for something not quite as good.


It all depends on precisely what your use is - something that's going to be seen up-close and manhandled a lot really needs a proper thixotropic - but if it's a static piece at a distance that's going to be junked after a couple of weeks then there's plenty of old-school techniques that will produce a similar effect. PVA glue and sawdust (dust, not shavings) mixes in gives a great fine texture. With water-based paints I've mixed in wallpaper paste granules; small fine-grain granules gives bump texture similar to years of painting, bigger flakes gives a great blown/rusting texture. BUT its really not at all durable so it needs to be something that's for a fixed set piece for a defined run length.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Tom,


I didn't realise the tub was 10L - as I don't think it's stated on the Flints site.. As I need to order some of their great paint and some wooden rivets I think I'll go for it.


I should have said that this is for a school prod of We Will Rock You and the set won't be toured, but may be reused. I too have used the sawdust/flour/polenta additives and have always added a fair bit of PVA to give it a bit of resilience.


I still have some unused iron power from Flints from a previous production and plan to use it for the 'steel'. Do you have any experience of creating rust effects? I have not found any good info on the WWW - yet..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

brown paint, 2 different shades, dabbed on with a dry sponge - dense in the middle, feathered to the edges = rust on stage. More important is the placing - things go rusty at joints, corners, edges and ends; a circle of rust in the middle of a flat space just looks wrong, rust around a dent or a corner looks right.


The biggest secret (as with all scenic effects) is that less is more - do just enough to create the impression of what it is you're trying to replicate; distance and audiences imagination will create the rest for you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...


This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.