Aaron-Hill07 Posted September 3, 2009 Share Posted September 3, 2009 OK, well I own a Martin Magnum 2000 Smoke machine, up til a couple of weeks ago it was working perfectly but it suddenly found itself a fault. Basically the problem is when you power the machine on, the small controller module powers on (Power LED comes on) but neither the Power or Heat LEDs turn on the actual machine so nothings powered. BUT, when you press the Power button on the control module the Power LED turns on the actual main machine, also the Heat LED momentarily flashes on then off. Can anybody shed any light on why this problem is happening? Thanks in advance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cedd Posted September 3, 2009 Share Posted September 3, 2009 I've had an identical scenario with one of these units. Try turning the intensity knob clockwise past the click, if it's the same as mine, it should power up. No idea if it's the normal working condion for one of these, but it certainly got mine working again. Perhaps yours has always been turned up full until somebody has fiddled with it? The manual seems to completely ignore the power button, aying that the proper way to turn it on is by turning the knob up. The click appears to be the off switch. HTH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron-Hill07 Posted September 3, 2009 Author Share Posted September 3, 2009 Well I've obviously turned the knob a little way until the Power button is light on the controller.. that's fine.. I just can't get the lights to go on the actual machine I.E no power to the machine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cedd Posted September 4, 2009 Share Posted September 4, 2009 Aha, slightly different circumstances to mine in that case, my controller is in the back of the machine and, if I'm honest, I'd forgotten it was removeable. I'll have a play with mine on a length of cable and see. There is a thermal fuse inside. Could possibly be that? There's a procedure for resetting it in the manual which can be found on the Martin website or with a bit of googling. C Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron-Hill07 Posted September 4, 2009 Author Share Posted September 4, 2009 My controller is in the back of the machine too, that's no different. It does the same when I have a cable plugged in too.. I've reset the thermal cut-out already to no avail... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe White Posted September 4, 2009 Share Posted September 4, 2009 Ive got a machine in the work (Requires new heaterblock), ive seen this problem before. Im currently on holiday until monday, If you can wait I will try and recreate the fault on the machine on wednesday and if I manage it I will let you know. As far as I remember from last time it was something daft and an easy Fix but will let you know. Ta Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron-Hill07 Posted September 4, 2009 Author Share Posted September 4, 2009 I'm currently thinking that it's something to do with the two signal cables which run from the PCB into the heaterblock.. I've tested everything with a multimeter including the power cables and they're all working fine... I preferably need to know by tomorrow as I have a gig to do but if I can't get a quick fix then I'll have to use a crappy DJ machine :huh: If you could give me a brief idea of the fix I can have a play around with it and see if I can get it to work!! Thanks alot Joe, Aaron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe White Posted September 4, 2009 Share Posted September 4, 2009 Ohh wait, try resoldering both the plug on the Main PCB inside the machine, and inside the controller I think if you lose a pin it does that, I remember dodgy XLR extension leads used to cause that fault Ta Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron-Hill07 Posted September 4, 2009 Author Share Posted September 4, 2009 The plug on which part? For signal? Can you explain that a bit more please, im being a bit slow today! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe White Posted September 4, 2009 Share Posted September 4, 2009 When you take the controller out it has a socket on the back and top, they need to be resolderd, and the XLR Male that it goes into on the machine needs soldered, you need to take the main pcb out of the machine to do that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron-Hill07 Posted September 4, 2009 Author Share Posted September 4, 2009 Hmm, I've tested them for continuity and they're fine, I guess it's worth a try though? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe White Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 Did you get anywhere with the machine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron-Hill07 Posted September 7, 2009 Author Share Posted September 7, 2009 Yeah I now know the problem.. The controller was actually broken with the machine. The way they work is the Power goes straight to the remote whilst the rest of the machine awaits a signal from the controller to say that the controller is present and working. Now my remote wasn't sending back the 1.5 amp signal the rest of the machine requires until I pushed the Power button to send back the full 5.2 amps which was why the LED's turn on once the button was pressed! So, need to get a new remote... Anyone have one?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirkenstein Posted September 12, 2009 Share Posted September 12, 2009 Now my remote wasn't sending back the 1.5 amp signal the rest of the machine requires until I pushed the Power button to send back the full 5.2 amps which was why the LED's turn on once the button was pressed! So, need to get a new remote... Anyone have one?!I'm afraid mine isn't spare, but the control itself is likely to be rather dumb inside. You probably don't need to do more than replace either a resistor, a Zener diode or the smoke level adjustment pot to get it to work again. BTW the signals are voltage, not current levels. Details of the signaling scheme can be found in the thread below:Thread on Magnum 2000 control voltage Be careful with the 10V level- this activates the internal burst timer which will cause you no end of trouble. As long as the supply voltage from the Magnum 2000 itself is correct (12V I think, but please check on a working one) there's no need to open up the Magnum 2000 itself to change anything so it's relatively safe to go and fix the remote yourself, even with limited electronics knowledge. You will need to know how to use a multimeter and soldering iron, though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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