Graphic Sliders

[Pytchley]

Thanks Richard, trouble is someone's been messing about with the connections and I couldn't get anything from the XLRs 2 or 3 hot and there was a only a small signal on the jacks. I tried to figure it out (I'm not brilliant on electronics being a drummer!) and I got a better signal but a horrible buzz as well... hence my cry for help.

[STA]

Both of mine have pin 2 hot, but jumpers inside to select which way to wire it.

 

Do you have the mk1 or 2 version? (Mk1 is a flat circuit board inside, 2 has vertical boards, 1 per channel and a separate in/out board at the back)

 

If it's the mk2 there are lots of jumpers to configure the way it's grounded and the pin configuration etc. On the mk1 I think you have to use link wires across some of the points where the transformer would be if it had one fitted. FWIW I prefer the sound of these unbalanced without the transformer, as long as you can use them across a master insert point.

[Pytchley]

Both of mine have pin 2 hot, but jumpers inside to select which way to wire it.

 

Do you have the mk1 or 2 version? (Mk1 is a flat circuit board inside, 2 has vertical boards, 1 per channel and a separate in/out board at the back)

 

If it's the mk2 there are lots of jumpers to configure the way it's grounded and the pin configuration etc. On the mk1 I think you have to use link wires across some of the points where the transformer would be if it had one fitted. FWIW I prefer the sound of these unbalanced without the transformer, as long as you can use them across a master insert point.

 

Thanks for the reply. Mine's a Mk 1 and I would really like to know where to run the link wires.

[KevinE]

The BK is unbalanced only via either 1/4in TRS and non-conventionally-wired XLR; so you'll ideally need to use the unbalanced outs from the graphic and for simplicity use the 1/4in inputs on the BK. For unbalanced out to balanced in, its just a link in the plug, but for balanced out to unbalanced in, its not so easy.

[TimmyP1955]

I found some very useful info on these graphics recently. They have a tendency over time to develop scratchy faders and replacing them doesn't cure the problem. It turns out that it's a different components ageing that causes the scratchy noise. A very smart person at Juice Lighting & Sound has worked this out and, more importantly, knows how to cure it.

 

Details are HERE

 

They are worth fixing, they are superb graphics.

 

Cheers,

 

Peter

 

Link's dead at the moment.

 

Scratchy pots are often caused by leaky capacitors. These allow a continuous "trickle" of DC current that breaks down the pot's substrate, which causes the scratching. Clean or replace the pots and replace the caps. (I learned this from the late Julian Vereker of Naim Audio.)