ftg Posted May 24, 2008 Share Posted May 24, 2008 I'm looking for an alternative solution instead of the ETC S4 Profile and PAR pre-made cable assembly which is quite expensive and the sheath is not durable enough to bear the mechanical stress (we expose these poor fixtures).I'm wondering if it is possible to buy the ceramic lamp socket separately and crimp it on different cable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomo Posted May 24, 2008 Share Posted May 24, 2008 I'm wondering if it is possible to buy the ceramic lamp socket separately and crimp it on different cable.Nope, the ceramic is part of the cable assembly. However, the sheath should last quite a long time, even when mildly abused!How long are they lasting? I know I've seen S4's sat outside on cruise ships for many years that still work fine. Give your local ETC office a call and ask about them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftg Posted May 24, 2008 Author Share Posted May 24, 2008 The major problem is that the cables get pinched by the trunk lid, stuck between the bracket and the floor-plate or God knows what exactly can happen on-site but this sheath just too soft and splits immediately so it will fail the visual inspection when you PAT test it. Meanwhile on older fixtures I can find cables with different type of sheath that has survived a couple of years of torture and still fine. That is why I think trying a different type of cable would be a solution for this, but unfortunately as far as I can see there is only this pre-made cable assembly on the market and no other options. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maeterlinck Posted May 24, 2008 Share Posted May 24, 2008 Are there ceramics with different cables? The ones we have here and the spare assemblies are made with really tough cable. In fact it's easily the toughest of all our lamps. I'm sure if we tried shutting them in flight case lids they'd survive... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftg Posted May 24, 2008 Author Share Posted May 24, 2008 Are there ceramics with different cables? The ones we have here and the spare assemblies are made with really tough cable. In fact it's easily the toughest of all our lamps. I'm sure if we tried shutting them in flight case lids they'd survive...I hope there are different pre-made cable assemblies, coz in this case I only have to ask you the name of your supplier and my problem is solved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kopy Posted May 26, 2008 Share Posted May 26, 2008 I know what you mean. I always make sure I take a few on tour with me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ftg Posted June 3, 2008 Author Share Posted June 3, 2008 Are there ceramics with different cables? The ones we have here and the spare assemblies are made with really tough cable. In fact it's easily the toughest of all our lamps. I'm sure if we tried shutting them in flight case lids they'd survive... I'm still trying to find this tough cable assembly but I'm not getting anywhere so if you could let me know where you buy these spares from that would be great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomo Posted June 4, 2008 Share Posted June 4, 2008 A useful document is the Source Four Assembly Guide. (Direct link to PDF) The ETC part number is 7060B7013 - this is the CE version of little ceramic 'block' and the wire set.The wire used was changed around 2003/2004 to a tougher variety of silicone cable. Any ETC Dealer can supply these, and they should all be carrying the same version. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BungalowJumper Posted June 4, 2008 Share Posted June 4, 2008 Although the cable jacket is definitely tough, what I see most often is a problem right up at the cable grip. The clamp can be overtightened very easily and then depending on how much the cable is waggled about during the lamps use (*see 2nd part), after a period of time one or more of the 3 cores burns out inside the nice tough jacket (inspection shows blackened copper around the break in a core) and the whole cable assembly needs to be replaced. Which isn't cheap given that the problem is that only a bit of 1.5mm cable got damaged. My current solution is to wind a 1"x6" strip of black wrap around the cable and then cover it with a bit of heatshrink. This makes the cable diameter at the clamp a bit bigger which I reckon spreads the pressure out better and seems to be more sympathetic on the inner cores. 2nd partHow do you store the cable when the lamp is not in use? Mostly aimed at folks from hire companies who move their lanterns often. Options Coiled neatly around the handles on the topHanging down totally looseFolded in half with a loose knot inCoiled and tapedAny others Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikienorth Posted June 5, 2008 Share Posted June 5, 2008 Experience of repairing a building's stock of these brings me to this conclusion: After 7-8 years of wrapping the cable around the lamphouse the cables were all beginning to fail at the point where the cable enters the lamphouse. Looking at them, it appears that simply tying the cables in a knot relieves the strain caused by the wrapping around the lantern. Plus, new, smaller diameter cable with tougher sheath, as the replacements are, will help.. Does Tomo have ay particular advice or experience relating to damage caused by coiling or knotting? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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