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Atomic 3000 Strobe Lamp Needed


r_keates

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Hi guys,

 

I'm trying to source a couple of lamps for Atomic 3000 DMX strobes, but I'm not having much luck at the moment!

 

The manual and specs show it needs a MAX-15 lamp, but I can't find any reference to this lamp on t'internet!

 

My colleague ordered a couple of XOP-15 lamps from Mico thinking they would be the same, but they only have 2 connections, one at each end of the tube, whereas the originals also had a metal wire running down the outside of the tube, with its own connection.

 

Need to get a couple of these ASAP as both our strobes have failed in the space of 2 weeks, so if anyone can give me the details of where to get this lamp or an equivalent I'd be very grateful!

 

Thanks for your help

 

Rob :** laughs out loud **:

 

EDIT: also just seen this on the Martin website:

 

Atomic 3000 DMX™

 

Hints, Tips, and FAQs

Martin Lamps Only in Atomic 3000

 

2007-12-27

ID: 5697 User support

 

In the past, Martin could supply special Philips XOP lamps with an ionization wire for the Atomic 3000 DMX. The special XOP lamps are no longer available, so we now only approve Martin MAX-15 lamps for 200-240 V models and Martin MAX-7 lamps for 100-120 V models. The Atomic 3000 DMX user manual Revision E contains correct lamp details.

 

Another small change in the revised Atomic 3000 DMX user manual and specifications: as with all our products, we now express the voltage range accepted by the product as nominal voltages.

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You often have to wind the trigger wire (the third wire) yourself on strobe tubes, its not hard or an exact process! Just so long as the basic tube is correct in the first place (so it wont overheat, crack or shatter!).

 

The last generic XOP15 I ordered did have the trig wire ready wound on and the lead-out insulated with HT silicone sleeving mind.

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You often have to wind the trigger wire (the third wire) yourself on strobe tubes, its not hard or an exact process! Just so long as the basic tube is correct in the first place (so it wont overheat, crack or shatter!).

 

The last generic XOP15 I ordered did have the trig wire ready wound on and the lead-out insulated with HT silicone sleeving mind.

 

Didn't know this was actually an option, as the lamps I've always bought in the past have always been pre'done (I'm a spoilt technician ** laughs out loud **). So basically as long as the physical tube is right (which it is), then adding the wire to trigger isn't a major problem?

 

If this is the case I may have to have a look at this, might be able to re-use the old ones as I still have the dead tubes...

 

Rob

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