boswell Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 Hi all,We are re-laying our stage covering using 8x4 sheets of 6.4mm Oil Tempered Hardboard. (nailed down) staggered butt joints.We have received conflicting advice as to pre-soaking it with water 24hrs before laying to prevent buckling.All sites I have looked at recommend soaking standard hardboard but a couple also say you should treat Oil Tempered in the same way. Others suggest that Oil tempered will not buckle and soaking will have no effect.Our suppliers are no help and can't get to manufacturers as it all seems to be imported.Any help/advice would be appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klemay Posted August 12, 2007 Share Posted August 12, 2007 Just curious as to why your using hardboard? id go for 6mm MDF myself, no hassle nice clean straight edges, cuts nicely and a decent price per sheet too! its what I've always known to use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boswell Posted August 12, 2007 Author Share Posted August 12, 2007 Harder surface than MDF so does not scuff or wear with truck wheels , water resistant, takes water based floor paint well. It also has straight clean edges, price around £10 +vat for 8x4 sheet and lasts around 10 years before it need replacing. Also found out that you do not need to soak oil tempered with water before laying Job was completed last Friday Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulears Posted August 12, 2007 Share Posted August 12, 2007 We always use 6mm MDF for our pantos - painted with a base coat, then finished in the venue by the painters. After 80 shows with dancers and trucks they have had it! Surface dents, scuffs, real wear dents, and plenty of crushed edges, needing extra fixing during the run. I'd not use them for the permanent surface in my home venue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boswell Posted August 12, 2007 Author Share Posted August 12, 2007 We actually found that our original oil tempered hardboard did not wear at all. It was the build up of floor paint applied over the years that started to chip and flake with the trucks giving an uneven surface. The trucks were then snagging and jamming in the resultant hollows left by the flaked paint. It was cheaper, quicker and easier to replace the oil tempered hardboard than to mess around with various methods of stripping the paint off the existing. The new stuff is nailed every 100mm around the edges of each sheet and also several rows across the middle of each sheet. It took 2 men 3 days (6 man days) to replace 30 sheets. (sounds like an exam question :D )Now ready for 'Jekyll the musical' at the end of the month. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulears Posted August 12, 2007 Share Posted August 12, 2007 off topic alert - but if you want a really good laugh, see if you can get the dvd of David Hasselhoff - doing it. The most cringeworthy performance I have ever seen in my life! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boswell Posted August 12, 2007 Author Share Posted August 12, 2007 I have got a copy which I intend to watch before I go to run thro' rehearsal next Sunday. I'll look forward to it now!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted August 12, 2007 Share Posted August 12, 2007 It was cheaper, quicker and easier to replace the oil tempered hardboard than to mess around with various methods of stripping the paint off the existing. The new stuff is nailed every 100mm around the edges of each sheet and also several rows across the middle of each sheet. It took 2 men 3 days (6 man days) to replace 30 sheets.That seems like quite a lot of labour. Just out of curiosity, what was the split between pulling up the old and putting down the new? And did you nail by hand or with an air nailer (or paslode)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boswell Posted August 13, 2007 Author Share Posted August 13, 2007 1 day to lift and skip then denail the floor ready for laying.2 days to lift in and lay the new, cut around traps, flaps etc and nail by hand. All done by retired joiner & mate so labour rates were not bad!! I understand that last time we did it, we used backstage staff so labour cost was zero, but it was before I joined so I don't know how long it took. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted August 13, 2007 Share Posted August 13, 2007 1 day to lift and skip then denail the floor ready for laying.2 days to lift in and lay the new, cut around traps, flaps etc and nail by hand.That makes sense, especially with the cutting. But I'd encourage anyone doing a similar task to consider using a nailer - they really speed things up no end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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