Johnno Posted September 26, 2006 Share Posted September 26, 2006 Has anyone ever replaced a slider on an Elara deck? Something has collided with the preset masters on mine and damaged one. I've got the right part for a repair but haven't yet started on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gilly Posted September 26, 2006 Share Posted September 26, 2006 I've carried out a similar repair on an Alcora. Just 6 blobs of solder if memory serves. Just need to be quick to save damaging the PCB. The desk comes apart very easily to carry out the repair. Hope that helps! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianknight Posted September 27, 2006 Share Posted September 27, 2006 I've carried out a similar repair on an Alcora. Just 6 blobs of solder if memory serves. Just need to be quick to save damaging the PCB. The desk comes apart very easily to carry out the repair. Hope that helps! "Just 6 blobs of solder..." on a through-hole plated PCB, so be very careful not to damage the PCB as you extract the old fader (more so if the desk is a Mark 2!!). If you're unsure - then ask your local Zero88 repair centre to do it - should be at most 1/2 hours bench labour plus cost of the fader. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnno Posted September 27, 2006 Author Share Posted September 27, 2006 I may end up getting it repaired as I can't get into it! Not a good start... I've removed all the screws but the metallic end cheeks are interlocked with the plastic corners and neither seems to want to be the first to leave. Any suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianknight Posted September 27, 2006 Share Posted September 27, 2006 I may end up getting it repaired as I can't get into it! Not a good start... I've removed all the screws but the metallic end cheeks are interlocked with the plastic corners and neither seems to want to be the first to leave. Any suggestions? Depending on which version it is you only need to remove two screws - some models needed 7 removing - but you don't need to disassemble the case to do the repair, the PCB will separate from the case. Be careful of the case mouldings as you re-assemble it - the corners are £5 each!! No more clues from here - I'm doing myself out of a job otherwise ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnno Posted September 30, 2006 Author Share Posted September 30, 2006 I may end up getting it repaired as I can't get into it! Not a good start... I've removed all the screws but the metallic end cheeks are interlocked with the plastic corners and neither seems to want to be the first to leave. Any suggestions? Depending on which version it is you only need to remove two screws - some models needed 7 removing - but you don't need to disassemble the case to do the repair, the PCB will separate from the case. Be careful of the case mouldings as you re-assemble it - the corners are £5 each!! No more clues from here - I'm doing myself out of a job otherwise You won't be putting yourself out of a job now as I've had a look at the pcb and decided not to do it myself. So if you are a pukka repair technician who will accept local authority orders PM me with your charges for replacing 2 linear pots. I've emailed Zero 88 and a local company for quotes, another one would not go amiss. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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