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IRW

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Posts posted by IRW

    Show Relay Distribution

    in Video & Projection

    Posted

    Hey folks,

    What's the best way nowadays to distribute show relay TV? In the olden days before Digital/HD/SDI/1080/999i/SuperDuperProtocolX etc, it was just a case of sticking the roof aerial into a cascade of UHF modulators that had the show relay camera(s) plugged into them, and picking a frequency not occupied by the five main channels, but having not bought a TV for about 15 years, I don't even know if they come with analogue tuners...

    I'm looking to keep this simple if possible. I've got a bit of money to spend before the end of the financial year- there's already a UHF distribution network to the dressing rooms from a distribution amp in the roof, which has the show relay going into it via a basic composite - UHF modulator.

    I guess what I'm looking for is (a) suggestions of small (19" maybe?) TV's known to have analogue tuners in to put in the dressing rooms that will work on the end of the existing cabling, OR a new 'something' to go in the roof to take either my composite or UHF show relay feed and turn it into a digital signal that a digital tuner  in a bog standard modern TV would pick up? Extra bonus points if there a way to inject free to air digtial TV onto the line too.

    Opening cable mounted Tourmate/Multilock Socapex compatible connectors

    in Lighting

    Posted

    11 hours ago, Bazz339 said:

    Specifically which way does the back twist to get it off, I haven't managed to budge them in either direction. 

    I couldn't find any grub screws.  

    I also had to open a LK Connector version.  That had a grub screw, transpired that had be twisted clockwise to get it off which was counter intuitive for me and the threads were oxidised. 

     

    IMG_20240214_195840.jpg

    If I recall correctly, you need to plug it into another socapex of the opposing gender. That then gives you something to hold in order to to unscrew the body from the pin assembly. Unscrewing the gland first (as you have on the middle unit) also helps!

    Low budget pro wrestling setup?

    in Lighting

    Posted

    On 1/16/2024 at 12:41 AM, david.elsbury said:

    Halogen work light won’t fit the “not blinding” part of the brief… they spray light everywhere 

    To be fair, they’d be less blinding than the horrible LED variants…!

    • Upvote 1

    Who was after a Strand 500 series...?

    in Lighting

    Posted · Edited by IRW

    Once upon a time, I got a 520 to recognise a USB thumb drive using DOS drivers. Couldn’t get it to work on a 300 due to lack of memory, but it was definitely possible on 500-series consoles!
     

    I didn’t progress it too far, as it was our venue’s main desk at the time, and I wasn’t quite as cautious/reckless (delete as appropriate!) when it came to messing with things I had a small-but-dangerous level of knowledge about then as I am now! 🤓😂

    Martin SmartMacs. Yes, that's what I said, SmartMacs. Pan/tilt issues.

    in Lighting

    Posted

    16 hours ago, partyanimallighting said:

    So I did a little more checking and the fixture's pan and tilt seems to function well after startup until that "HOT" error message appears, then the unit ceases all function.......strange.......

    This is fairly normal behaviour for a unit that thinks there’s a chance it’s lamp may have blown. You don’t want to be panning and tilting a unit potentially full of broken glass..!

    PATs on CSI followspots

    in Lighting

    Posted

    On 6/9/2023 at 2:45 PM, Andrew C said:

    AND... Isn't there an indicator for "good earth" on the ballast of lantern*?  I wonder how that plays with PAT.

     

    * it might be the SIL that I'm thinking of...

    Maybe that’s what’s in my head actually…a little green thing?

    PATs on CSI followspots

    in Lighting

    Posted

    I seem to recall (it’s been a while since I last tested Solo’s), that there’s a neon power indicator on the ballast, or something else that caused (maybe) funny insulation resistance results?

    Projector Recommendations

    in Video & Projection

    Posted · Edited by IRW

    58 minutes ago, Stuart91 said:

    4m by 3m is a 4:3 ratio, whereas almost all video content is now widescreen. 

    Who is responsible for producing the artwork for the ads? If it's as simple as slapping up the logo and contact details for a nearby restaurant, being 4:3 won't matter much, but if the advertisers are giving you their own material chances are it'll be 16:9. 

    You can get projectors in both 4:3 and widescreen (typically 16:10). There's more choice with widescreen if you are buying new, but if this is being done on a shoestring, an ex-install 4:3 model could be a cheap buy. 

    4m wide from a 16m throw means you need a 4:1 ratio on the lens, which puts you in the territory of fairly expensive long-throw lenses. It might be less expensive to rig a standard-lens projector from a FOH bar, if you have any within range. 

    Existing square on the iron is 4:3. Not necessarily anything stopping us from painting a bigger square. I’d be tempted to go for a projector that can do widescreen for future proofing but resize the artwork to fit in the short term, although absolutely nothing is set in stone yet. No closer positions…It’s a big venue 😉

    Projector Recommendations

    in Video & Projection

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Glyn Edwards said:

    I can't help directly, but you also need to consider how the projector lamp / shutter will be controlled and how you play back the adverts.   Who is responsible for showing the adverts, it may be fine if you have an in house op, but what if a tour uses their own operator? Is the spill from a black image acceptable or will you need a proper "black out". What happens if the projector isn't lamped on, or worse doesn't get lamped off until the next day? Will these adverts need audio, in which case you'll need a feed into either a permanently installed PA or into the touring desk, that you then need to ensure is left open for the interval.

    It may be possible to automate a lot of the process using arduino etc so that pressing a button will lamp on the projector, wait a suitable warm up time then open the shutter, run the VT, close the shutter and finally lamp off. 

     

    Let us know how you get on.

    Funny enough most of these questions were the first things I came up with too 😉. At the moment I’m just doing an initial costing to find out of the idea is vaguely affordable.

    Projector Recommendations

    in Video & Projection

    Posted

    Hi Folks,

    I've been asked to cost up a projector to potentially do a bit of safety-curtain advertising, but I'm a bit out of touch with the latest stuff around!

    I've not got the precise measurements to hand, and there's a fitup going on, but for sake of argument, let's say it's an image size approximately 4m by 3m, and a throw distance of 16m, or therabouts. Ambient light (in the way of houselights) is not too obtrusive, but is reasonably present. Projection surface is a white-ish square painted on a canvas-y safety curtain!

    Does anyone have any recommendations please, based on my incredibly precise specification above!?

    Thanks,

    Ian

    Senior Technician (Lighting & Sound)- Liverpool Empire Theatre

    in Situations Vacant

    Posted · Edited by paulears
    Salary Added

    The Liverpool Empire Theatre has an exciting opportunity for an experienced and motivated individual to join us as a Senior Technician for Lighting and Sound. This role is an integral part of the technical team within
    this busy regional venue.

    You will fully support the Head of Lighting and Sound in all aspects of lighting and sound, you will  also work with the Technical team to drive forward the highest standards of technical support to visiting companies and in house projects. The successful candidate will be able to demonstrate skills in Lighting & Sound including rigging, focusing, lighting design work, operation of lighting and sound desks and have prior experience in large scale touring or venues.

    Please apply via the ATG Careers Portal:
    Senior Technician (LX & Sound) | ATG Careers

    EDIT - BY MODS TO ADD (FROM THE LINK)

    £28,350.00 per annum

    Site Radio Advice

    in Sound

    Posted

    6 hours ago, cedd said:

    A vehicle set mounted in the room and powered from a 12v mains adapter, with the coax running out to a fixed aerial would work. Just switch it on when you're in there. However there are legalities to consider. I believe Ofcom class a set that is mounted in some way to be a fixed base, which isn't permitted. You'd need to read up on it. 

    Is it that you get nothing at all, or that the squelch is too high in its' usual setting? If the signal you're after is there but buried in the noise then you may be able to programme a button on your radios up to switch the squelch level. 

    I think you're probably going to struggle to do anything from an RF point of view without some sort of base station or repeater. 

    We do get something in there, but there's enough drop out to make calls unintelligible

    Site Radio Advice

    in Sound

    Posted

    Hi folks,

    We've got Motorola DP1400's as our site radios (running in p2p mode- no repeater), and there is one particular area in the building where reception is rather poor, so I was wondering if anyone might have any suggestion as to ways to improve this, preferably one that doesn't involve a repeater for X many thousand pounds...?

    Range itself is not an issue, as I can go out of the building and a good couple of hundred meters away, but the room in question is particularly buried in a corner of the building (effectively basement area of a new build section of the building, breeze block walls, corrugated metal ceiling with concrete on the floor above, etc etc...)

    Thanks,

    Ian

    DMX problem

    in Lighting

    Posted

    26 minutes ago, Ynot said:

    I didn't think that the DMX spec includes tying pin 1 to screen/earth??

    I certainly don't do that when making up cables

    Indeed not. This is a Very Bad Thing...a mains short to earth in the dimmer pack will result in potential serious damage of kit down/upstream!

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