TheSoundGuy43

Hi Dave Thank you so much for taking the time to offer me advice. I have done exactly what you stated. I used the Multimeter in continuity mode and measured the reading from each of the heatsinks to the speaker connection. Based on your advice and from what I've read, I think I have identified the problematic PCB. Firstly I have created an image to help describe what I've found so far. As you can see I think that the erroneous multimeter readings on the upper PCB indicate that this is the damaged one. The continuity readings on the lower PCB seem to indicate that it is working fine. Am I correct to think this? Which then leads me to believe that the upper PCB controls the MF's and the lower one controls the HF's. As soon as I can confidently identify the damaged board I can order a new one from HK. (both seem to be in stock for a change). Im having trouble finding which part number refers to which board as the diagram on the HK website doesn't load. Any more advice on this would be great. Hopefully I will soon be in a position to replace the damaged part and fire it up. Once again thanks for everyones help. Craig

Dave I can't thank you enough. Thats the kind of advice / pointers I was hoping for. Thanks for taking the time to put it all in writing. I'll work through what you have said and come back with an update for anyone whose interested. Once again thanks for taking the time to offer help. Craig

Hey Guys Ive taken things a few steps further as per your advice. Firstly I changed the fuse that had blown which fixed the continuous red light on the HF limiter however it hasn't fixed the problem. When I put a signal through the speaker all I get is the HF coming from the horn but absolutely no MF at all. I then took your advice and tested the Driver resistance with a multimeter which was coming in at around 6.8 ohms and from what I've read this indicates that the driver is not the problem.I moved on to testing the the PCB for the MF and when I connected the probes of the multimeter I got some fluctuating numbers that were all over the place. I also noticed that a previous owner had drawn silver crosses on two of what look like heatsinks. Im starting to think that the problem was already identified and I was sold a duff speaker. My bad, I took my eye off the ball there but im still dedicated to fixing it. Has anyone ever changed one of these pcb's? Theres a large ribbon cable soldered to it so it doesn't look like an easy job. Any advice or tips before I go pulling things apart? Thanks

I took your advice and ran a signal through the speaker and it seemed to be missing the mid frequencies and was really tinny. I opened the speaker up to see if there was anything obviously wrong and I immediately found that a fuse on one of the PCB boards had blown. Im guessing this is the PCB for the mid range speaker and would explain the tinny sound. Ive ordered some 4 amp slow blow fuses that should arrive in the next couple of days and If that's all the problem is then im a very happy man. Just wanted to say thank you for pointing me in certain directions and ill let you know if this solves the problem. Cheers Guys!

Thanks Alec. Im starting to air more to the driver side of things. I have checked the user manual for the correct part details and it says the original driver is as follows. B&C DE85 8OHM 2" DRIVER Link here And I've seen them on another site for half the price: Link here Can anyone help me confirm that these are the same parts before I waste my money? Cheers Guys!

Hi Alec. Yeah all the other mid/tops and subs work perfectly. The light is on constant red, as soon as it is powered, even when there is no signal being sent to the speaker. I was wondering if it was the driver that was faulty but I was just trying to isolate the problem before I go spending money on something that doesn't fix it. Its a pretty old system and from what I gather has been all over the world and worked pretty hard. Judging by some of the other gear I bought from the same guy it could well have been been pushed too hard, he seemed like the kind of guy that had all the gear and no idea. Do you know if there is a way of manually deactivating the HF limiter or is it just something that kicks in automatically?

Thanks for your reply. I have fired up the whole system and this speaker seemed very tinny and missing Mids more than anything. Does this indicate that there is output from the HF Unit?

Hi Guys This is the first time I've ever posted to a forum and I joined specifically to see if any of you sound genius' could help me work out what's wrong with my speaker. I have a HK Projector active Mid/Top that has the HF limiter light on constantly. I am up for trying to fix it myself but I was hoping someone here could help me diagnose what may have gone wrong and where I might get the parts to fix it. Im pretty clued up with all things sound but have never gone inside one of these speakers. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.