Tim, on further investigation I think you are right, there's a light on the main pcb that goes out when the link to the back of the XLR pcb is disconnected, that light has always been on so there has been some sort of connection happening there I think. I have now managed to get the power light on the remote panel to work, it was a dodgy pin connector on that circuit from the main PCB to the small PCB at the back of the remote connection. So now I can get the remote power led to light up but I still get the same problem of it firing as soon as it reaches temperature, it does this with or without the remote so perhaps its not that circuit that is my problem. I have adjusted the variable dials on the PCB (one for 'pump' one for 'sensor') and they are making a difference. The sensor dial can be used to make the machine fire, I guess by changing the ready to fire threshold, and then it is firing as soon as it reaches whatever that temperature it. So I need to find out what is bypassing everything and just allowing it to do that. It is ok inside, no signs of any moisture, its all pretty basic wiring apart from the PCB, I guess theres maybe some sort of brain chip that has fried so that instead of thinking about whether it wants to fire when it receives a signal it now just does it? So frustrating as its a really good machine, I'm even tempted to just keep it and crudely just turn it on and off to operate if I have to