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To clarify: The only power cables that feed the dimmers are from the two blue 16a industrial connectors. Any other power cables you see, extension leads, 13a sockets etc are just for charging batteries and the like – nothing to do with the lighting system. Definitely only two power cables going into the rack. I've traced these both back to the cooker switches and then each of these is fed by two beefy cables which go back to the consumer unit. Giving White Light a ring is a very good idea!

I finally had a chance to break open the cupboard. It was more work than I had anticipated and I had to get drastic with the tools, but I got in eventually. Here are some pics of the setup: Pics With access improved, I was able to check each of the commando power sockets and swap the two dimmer supplies over. The fault followed the power socket and so I eventually traced this to a tripped circuit breaker. That was great as it now means that there are eight out of 12 channels working. Even with the breaker in the on position, the neon on the dimmer is still unlit, so presumably that's failed. All that's left now is the mystery of the third dimmer which does not have its own power supply, nor is it labelled as you can see in the pics. I would expect it to have a sticker on it, as the other two do, with 'dimmers 9-12'. I was able to take my 6-pin din fly leads that go from the wall plate to the desk and plug directly into the dimmers in order to eliminate the cabling that runs through the trunking to the back of the hall. This yielded no difference and so I am reasonably confident that the cabling from dimmers to wall plate and then from wall plate to desk is all ok. I will check the four fuses in the dimmer that doesn't seem to be working, but I'm guessing it's fairly unlikely that all four and the neon would have failed. I may have to remove the covers and look at how the bottom dimmer links in and obtains its power. Any advice appreciated and thanks for everything so far!

Very interesting, thank you all who have responded. I'm back in later this week and so will get the best pics I can. In the meantime, here is one that was in my photo library showing the rear of the Level 12: My link

Hello all I've just registered for this forum after reading many of the threads that I found thanks to Google. I work at a school and have been asked to take a look at their very old lighting system which has been left unloved by previous technicians. It was all serviced by White Light back in 2012, but I think things have deteriorated since then due to misuse and abuse. I am a novice when it comes to lighting, but my background is in computer networking and system administration, so I am not completely clueless when it comes to technical things. They have a very old non-DMX Zero88 Level 12, 12 channel controller with one out of two "fade time" pots broken and one of the "flash" switches missing. This feeds back to a stack of three Green Ginger dimmers. The connection between the two is via three feeds of 6-core & shield cable with a 6-pin Bleecon at each end. One of the cables was damaged and had been severed. After a lot of digging and hunting online I was able to find some new old stock 6-pin Bleecons and I extended the severed cable with some equivalent that I sourced from RS. The Zero88 is powered via the dimmer but two of the dimmer banks do not appear to work. I am trying to find out if this is something to do with the links between the desk and dimmer or the dimmer itself. Everything is built-in to a custom made cupboard which has been there since the 80's and it's had layer upon layer of paint applied to it and so it doesn't even open fully anymore. This makes access a real pain and I'm trying to troubleshoot in the least destructive way as possible before I have to start hacking into stuff. I am having trouble identifying the exact model of Green Ginger dimmer. If I could identify the model then that may help me to track down a manual or at least ask some better questions of the more experienced people on here! All I can tell you given the limited access is that it appears to be a bank of three dimmers which present as one unit but perhaps are single modular units? Each one has four fuses labelled A, B, C and D and a red neon light. On two of the units the red neon does not light. I am not sure if it's the neon that's blown or if indeed those modules are faulty. An odd thing is that even though there are three banks of four channels, there are only two power feeds (each with a blue 16 amp, I believe, commando plug) going to it. I thought there would be three. The other identifying feature that the dimmer setup has is that the three Bleecon connectors are located together on the lower left end face of the unit. This confuses me slightly because this layout implies that the three units are not in fact modular but form one system. I have tried looking on here and via Google image search at various models of Green Ginger dimmer, but I can't find any that have this kind of controller socket layout or that have the four fuses and neon in the same place as the units I have. I know that the desk channels work in a basic fashion because if I plug the one working Bleecon feed into the desk's '1-4', '5-8' or '9-12' outputs, control of the four lights on that particular dimmer are controllable by the desk's respective faders. I do realise that I am not helping myself here, but I am providing as much detail as I currently have given the access limitation. I may be able to get a mirror or phone into the cabinet and take some pictures, but I won't be able to do this until I'm next onsite on Wednesday and Thursday. Thanks for reading and for any advice you might be able to offer.