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Jupton24

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Posts posted by Jupton24

  1. Thanks for this... Yeah I agree 1000 is the absolute max number of seats I think there is also a plan to seat most of the younger kids on the floor cross legged...

    36 minutes ago, ImagineerTom said:

    Also side note - 15x36m containing a stage and backstage (that's immediately reduced the FOH space to 15x30m) is very optimistic for 1000 people seated. A proper regulation compliant grandstand system at maximum density has a rule of thumb of 1.5 people per m2 (this allows for not just the space of the people but also the required gangways and clearances) so you'd be getting a capacity of closer to 700 in a structure that size.

     

  2. Ive got 2 quotes from 2 diffrent audio companies but they differ quite massivly in terms of spec and I am after advice on which one to go for.

    Were doing a event outside under a marquee that is 15m x 36m ish seating 1000 people with the stage in the gable end  and having a couple of kid choirs and a kid rock band along with predominantly a lecturn mic as its a speech day. 

    One company has come in with 4 q7 and 4 q subs with 2 7k rear projectors either side of the stageing area.

    Whilst the other has come in with 6 y7p flown via kader clamps, 4 b6s and 4 60" tvs spanned down the side of the marquee. 

    Im just wondering what is the best one to opt for as one company said tvs don't work in marquees but im just worried about how will eveyone see the projectors either side of the stage. 

    Thanks 

     

  3. Ive been asked to work out a solution for a upcoming event for a outdoor yellow brick road so that the parents walk along the path before entering the venue. The terrain is quite difficult as it would be going over concreate and a section of grass to get to the performance location. I was wondering if anyone had any ideas about how to acheive this on a stupidly tight budget of around £100. It would be nice to have it about 100-200m long but it can be shorter due to budget. It needs to be removeable after use so something like chalk or fabric is preferable.

    I thought of fabric but im just worried about the H&S if someone trips as cant really anchor fabric in to concreate. And again thought of chalk but that would take years to do. 

  4. Ive been asked to create an effect of where blood is seen to be coming out of someones shirt after they get 'stabbed'. Ive been told its got to be realistic as possible but that something a child (Year 10) can operate. I can source the fake blood but im just after the mechanism. Is there a item that can do this or am I better off fabricating something? if so how?

    Thanks 

  5. 14 hours ago, sandall said:

    Good point Dave. +10v is the usual, but old Strand dimmers used -10v, & not all manufacturers used the same pin numbering. An indication of the make & model (& preferably a photo or two) would help.

    Thanks for the advice. Here are a couple of pics. The first pic shows the connector.

    PXL_20220304_102702563.MP.jpg

    PXL_20220304_102648834.MP.jpg

    PXL_20220304_102654299.MP.jpg

    PXL_20220304_102657793.MP.jpg

  6. Ive recently come across some analogue dimmers where I work and wondering if such thing exists as a din analogue to DMX adapter? or am I worth binning them? I should of thought such things dont exist but it would be great if you could point me in the direction of one. 

    Thanks 

  7. Just wondering if someone could shed some light on how the start of the panto works. I'm talking about when the audience walks in and the name of the panto is on a drape/curtain and it appears solid then when it is lit behind you can see the cast members but not the name of the play. It always puzzled me how this works/ what the concept is.

     

    Is it something that could be done on a budget? I've been told to recreate something like this for our upcoming am-dram play so was after ideas.

     

    Thanks in advance

  8. supermarket wire baskets though the standard 19 litre is too small for your speakers

    I was thinking the same thing,maybe a shopping trolley and 5 minutes with an angle grinder. there'll be plenty to chose from in your local canal.

     

    Good idea, though I would definitely make a name for myself as the person who installed shopping trolleys on the wall!

  9. Ive just gone back into the school where I work and done the kind of 'back to school' tests and found one of our speakers has broken yet again with the high end going. Its a EV ZX 3. We have had it replaced before so my first question is it worth fixing again or am I better buying new ones. Second question as it's a hall, can you buy such things as cages for speakers that are mounted on the wall so far I can just see cages for little flood lights? Last question. Its a sports hall so generally gets rented out to basketball players and etc. If you threw a ball at the speaker would it likely lose its high end? I'm sorry it's a bit of a dumb question but I just need proof to show the school that it may be likely. Thanks
  10. Hoping to get a bit of help here,

    I've recently been told by the head of drama where I work to install some mics in our small theatre. seating capacity max 120. The theatre is actually an old chapel that has been somewhat converted. rough size 8m x40m and cealing hight of roughly 6m at peak

     

    Now I've tried to play around with different mic options such as boundary mics and hanging mics but they haven't worked as the boundary mics just pick up the stage floor as its rostras with kids stepping on it. Hanging mics are a no as the head of drama doesn't like things dangling down.

     

    Personally, I have tried to explain that it doesn't need to be miced and the kids just need to speak up but the issue is with that we have nursery nativities where you can barely hear the kids from 2m away.

     

    Now I can kind of see the answer coming but is there any sort of mic that would be able to achieve something like a hanging mic but out of the way so to speak. I've tried rifle mics/shotgun mics they work alright but I've only had them at the front of the stage when we recorded a production but apparently, they lose the aesthetic of the theatre. I was thinking of something like a rode ntg on an articulating arm bolted to the rafters in the ceiling but I'm just worried about if it will pick the little kids alright. The budget is very very minimal roughly £300. I do have rode m3's that could be used but I have never used them before so I don't know what they are likely to pick up.

     

    Thanks for your help

  11. I have recently taken on a new job where the previous person has used lots of cloth and packaging tape to tape mic cables down. Though the cables are just covered in this sticky gunk left from the tape. What is the best thing to clean and remove the gunk that won't destroy mic cables? Thanks
  12. 6x 4 leaf barn doors. Looking for £15 each or if anyone has any barn doors with a 12.5cm diameter that are selling would consider a swap. Size diameter 13.5cm. Collection from Fleet, Hampshire or can post at buyers expense. Had for a couple of years hence a bit of dust on them but all works perfectly.

     

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/kiTd7xswCwS8Q7oG7

     

    Thanks for looking, feel free to ask any questions

  13. I prefer the FLX-S24 to the ColorSource as it has more faders, four encoder wheels for movers and is an easy 1 fader per light desk once set up, so suits inexperienced users as it is all in front of them. Has Lee Mood Boards which is better than StageCL colour swatches. There are a lot of features they may not use until someone starts to use the desk for busking or setting up cue stacks for shows. Good support on the FLX-S forum with Lee filters being made available by some users.

    The StageCL is also easy for inexperienced operators, I have set it up in schools for teachers that just want to bring up a fader for a light to work. The 4 scene buttons and 4 chase buttons make it easy to run basic dance shows. Colour selection is basic with Hue and Saturation but you can rerecord the built in colour swatches. There are demo videos available to see how it works.

     

    Another recommendation for the FLX-S series. I have one at a location I work at very easy for newbies

  14. I have to agree with all the other members about the H&S side of things. It depends on where you are going to put the stands. If you choose to go right on the corners of the ring I've used these before Floods I have had absolutely no problem with these before. Though like the other members have said it is about getting the structure sorted first before you look at lighting and controlling them.
  15. post-207-0-89890400-1615829786_thumb.jpgIs this the remote?

     

    As Robin says above, the buttons aren't that reliable. Depending which one it is I might even have a spare one I'll send you.

     

    that's the one... that would be great if you could thank you

     

    Some foggers have a light or LED to indicate the machine is hot and ready to use, this is usually extended to the remote. Not all remotes are wired the same and sometimes the remote LED ends up wired to the control wire when used with the wrong machine. It's usually discovered just at curtain up...

     

    that's what I got when I googled around for a solution and thought it could be a swap of two wires. I can say that when it is plugged in the green light doesn't shine up to show that the machine is ready neither does the other 2 lights when the buttons are pressed

  16. Have a look inside the remote connector (is it an XLR, or a DIN?)

     

    Could just be that some of the connections are shorting out inside it.

     

    okay I will its a XLR jack

     

    Have a look inside the remote connector (is it an XLR, or a DIN?)

     

    Could just be that some of the connections are shorting out inside it.

     

    okay I will its a XLR jack

     

    can't see any wires touching each other shorting each other

  17. Hi,

    I've recently taken on a skytec low-level fogger with an unbranded 5 pin remote. when I run the machine it produces a constant stream of smoke with the remote in and doesn't when it is out. I've looked around on google for an answer but it doesn't really cover the topic. the closest I've got is that the pins could be the wrong way around. though I don't know what way they are supposed to go. hope you can shed some light for me on this. I'm happy to resolder etc... I would prefer to fix this remote vs buying a new one as its for a school. thanks

  18. J Pearce that's a good idea except that young kids will be listening to the audio so you do 10% of what you feel is fine for your ears. If I put 2 10inch ones on the smaller amp and 2 15 on the bigger one will I occur any problems?
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