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AJDJ

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  • Member Status
    Working in the industry
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    DJ & Amateur Lighting Fixer-Upper!
  • Full Name
    Anthony

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  • Location
    Ottawa, ON, Canada

AJDJ's Achievements

Climbing the roster

Climbing the roster (3/14)

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  1. Fixed it!!!!!!!!!!! It was the firmware!!! Had to borrow an old LightJockey USBtoDMX and also had to download a super old version of light jockey, but first I had to install Windows XP on an old laptop to get it to work..... but now it’s finally up to date and the light runs at the same speed as the rest now.
  2. Have you tried https://djlightingdiscount.com/
  3. ya that's exactly what it seems like! hmmm... wonder if I were to edit the profile in the software to be a little slower on the faster unit..... maybe that will forces them to sync up... going to try to update the firmware first.
  4. I've tried both ways, the same thing happens if I put them both on the same channel or on separate channels! so it's so strange........ I also installed the DMX software that my USB to DMX cable originally came with (Sweet Light) and the results are the same. the only difference between the two are the firmware versions, so at this point I'm assuming Martin must have changed something that made the fixtures react a little faster. I'm going to try to borrow an update cable from a local shop and give it a try with them both being on the newest firmware.
  5. Was this issue ever resolved? I'm having the same issue, I have 2x Mac 250 Entours. one is slower than the other.. If you found a fix It would be great to know! Thanks
  6. I just checked, studio mode was off. so that's not the issue I guess.
  7. Ya.... I’m using an unknown USB to DMX thingy (it’s low end, pink plastic with a built in 3-pin xlr on it) ... I got it for free.. works great though! But not for updating fixtures apparently. Thanks for the link, I will check it out!
  8. Hello, I have 2x Martin Mac 250 Entour. One of them seems to respond slower then the other. Example, if I have an effect going that is just tilt back and forth they both stay in sync at slow speeds but at higher speeds on moves first by half a second or so and slowly over about 10 seconds of this they go way out of sync but if I bring the speed back down to a slower speed they go back to being in sync again. I’ve checked all my settings both on the fixtures and also in the software(Onyx) The only differences I can see is that the fixtures firmware is not the same... one is on 1.5 and the other is on 1.8. Could that make the difference? If so that leads me to another issue, The manual says you need specific hardware to update theses but that hardware is not in production anymore.
  9. Well....... don’t I feel dumb... that totally worked!!!! It’s silent now! THANK YOU!!!!
  10. I would love to "take" all 4 of the Entours! I got my hands on 2 of them a few months ago the were both broken, and I've been fixing them up ever since, I'm proud to say they both work almost totally like new now :) I'm in Canada.
  11. Update for everyone! I eventually did manage to get that sucker off! took a while… colour wheel is now back in place and lined up pretty well (had to calibrate a little in the Entours menu but not by too much : ) My next issue is a want to replace or possibly just re-grease the main bearing.... it's a little noisy (crunchy sort of sound) when it Pans slowly. So I took off all the plastic panels and then the metal thingy to expose the top of the shaft and I can see the retainer ring that’s holding down the bearings… So my super important question is: Can I remove that ring and get access to the bearings without removing the whole head of the unit? I’m hoping the answer is yes! because theres a bunch of Philips screws that I was trying to remove but unfortunately I stripped them pretty bad.... like as if the old metal of the screw is simply just to soft..... but I'm thinking I can disconnect the wiring from the side arms and be able to slip the bearing up and out at least enough for me to attempt at cleaning and greasing it... let me know what you think please and thank you!!!!
  12. Thanks everyone. I've decided to just glue the glass pieces to the removable plastic things instead of directly to the colour wheel.... so I no longer need to remove the wheel. I feel like it will be a little more tedious to do it this way but it's not that big of a deal really Thanks for all the responses!!
  13. Correct, the fixed gobo wheel and the color wheel seem to be on the same shaft but they're driven by separate motors(fixed gobo wheel is direct, color wheel is with a belt) The reason I want to remove the colour wheel is I want to glue new glass onto it.. one of the previous owners of this before me changed a bunch f the colours for whatever reason.... it has 4 different greens, 4 blues, 2 oranges..... 0 red, pink and purple... But I have a color wheel from a different moving head(Studio Due Shark 250) with all the "normal" colours, so I'm attempting to put those glass pieces into the mac 250 entour's colour wheel!. The Mac 250 Entour's colour wheel has these little plastic clips designed to be able to easily swap out/ replace colours however I guess because it's so old all of the clips are either broken or very brittle and break when you try to remove them so I figured I would just glue the glass right onto the wheel but I need full access to the colour wheel first! I tried removing the screws again on the shaft but that does not seem to release the fixed gobo wheel at all, even when I use quite a bit of force. Here's some photo's: a few photo's
  14. Wow thanks for all the super fast replies!! I can upload some photos tomorrow (I don’t have it in front of me at the moment). Glad you guys think I’m doing it correctly, Am I correct in saying I first need to remove the fixed gobo wheel before I can remove the colour wheel? Or should I be removing the motor on the back in order to release the colour wheel?
  15. Hello, I need to remove the colour wheel from a Martin Mac 250 Entour. I've already removed the entire FX module and the lens but now I can't figure out how to remove the actual colour wheel! There's little alien key bolts on the shaft part between the fixed gobo wheel and the colour wheel, I loosened those assuming the fixed gobo wheel would be able to pop off but it didn't seem to work.... So If thats not how you do it then how does one do it? It's got to come apart somehow! Any guidance would be great Thank You!
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