samchurchill

I’m afraid I can’t remember… One half of me thinks I would have noticed that as I know to check for the green icon, but the other half isn’t sure. Will look at that when I try it again

All the usual caveats about safety apply, but could you put a ~50cm boom arm on your speaker distance pole to support an LED COB or two?

Thanks, I’ll look at that next time the kit is out. This reminds me, it did also show “M32” in the appropriate bit of the X32’s display (top right) and vice versa, so they were detecting each other. Sam

Hi, I had a problem this morning which I couldn’t solve in time for our church service to start, so we worked around it, but I’m puzzled as, although we haven’t done it before, I think it should have worked. Can anyone spot anything that I’m doing wildly wrong here… We’ve got 2 x DL16 stage boxes daily-chained going into the AES50-A port of our M32 and I wanted to push all of these inputs to our X32 to do a multi-track recording. I took a (tested) network cable from AES50-B on to M32 to the AES50-A on the X32 and configured the routing on the M32 to send AES50-A 1-32 (in the 4 blocks of 8 channels) to AES50-B 1-32 (again, in 4 blocks). I then checked that the input routing on the X32 was listening to AES50-A 1-32 for the 4 blocks of 8. Although the M32 was getting the signal fine (which is part of our normal setup), nothing was coming into the X32. Thanks for any help! Sam

Thanks all, even though they’ll all be terminated into the same switcher 1m past the panel, I thought it best to be safe than sorry, so went for insulated.

Ah, so something like https://cpc.farnell.com/pro-signal/bnc22/bnc-socket-insulated-b-head-75r/dp/CN18186 would be suitable most of the time? Could you give me an example of when I might need an isolated ground? I think I’m right in saying that generally digital systems don’t suffer from the same noise as analog if they’re on different phases (that’s been my experience, but please correct me if I’m wrong!).

Hi, Hopefully just a quick question which I can’t find an answer to anywhere... am I correct in assuming that, as products like https://www.canford.co.uk/Products/48-5101_COAX-CONNS-10-503-B126-BNC-12G-UHD-Female-panel-75-ohm-double-sided-nickel-inc.15mm-hex-nut exist, multiple BNC SDI connections in a panel should be of the insulated type? Thanks, Sam

I know they’re fairly new and unlikely to be being sold 2nd hand, but putting this out there just in case

Thanks, I thought it’d likely be ok. Yes, they’re impossible to find at the moment! Luckily we’ve already got the HDMI to SDI ones, but can’t find an SDI to HDMI for anything!

Hi, I’m looking to organise the simplest and most tidy setup possible for our new Blackmagic Design Pocket Cinema Camera 6K. I need to convert the output to SDI so was going to use the Blackmagic Micro Converter for this. The converter is powered via Micro USB, so I’m wondering whether it’s possible to power it from the camera’s USB-C output (which we won’t need for anything else) while the camera is plugged into the mains via the standard PSU? Has anyone else tried this? Would be nice to know before ordering the cables! Thanks

Sorry for being a bit clueless on this one, but could I just check I’ve got the right idea before I order some resistors (or a potentiometer if I can find one)? The spec on the mic says “output impedance 1000 ohm or less”, so am I getting the right resistor values of I put in, say, 600 ohms and a starting value of 10dB attenuation at http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-Lpad.htm?

Mic audio is furthest from the tip (so no metal-bodied plugs!!), screen is 2nd ring (headphone audio on tip & 1st ring). Thank you!

Good, errr, shout! May see if I can get the parts next week. Just need to google which TRRS part is used for what now. Cheers all.

Thanks all, that’s really useful. Yes, I think I knew that link want the right thing for the job, but just wanted to narrow my search. And yes, you’re right about it needing to be TRRS. I’m tempted to make a small adapter with a project box and a fly lead, or, as you say, just chop the end off and solder a resistor in-line. Will see if I can work out an appropriate resistor value.

Hi, I’ve got a lav mic that plugs directly into a smartphone but occasionally it distorts slightly if someone with a loud voice uses it. Does anyone know iof a small adapter or cable I can use to pad the signal slightly? Not sure if https://www.amazon.co.uk/Xcaliber-XGA-11-Stereo-Socket-Resistors/dp/B000T9NLNU will do the trick. Thanks, Sam

Hi all, thanks for all the replies. To answer a couple of questions that have come up: yes, this is a portable church setup with the headphone amps in the racks on the side of the stage, and the exact models that we currently use are the Behringer HA4700 and HA8000. Hopefully this also explains why I’m trying to avoid batteries. I think, from reading all of the replies, there’s probably no substitute for trying it when we get back into our venues. All of the musicians are on small closed ear buds, so I expect it’ll likely have enough power on the line level outs. Thanks again

Hi, we’ve tended to use Behringer headphone amps to boost the wired IEM signal from our Midas DL16 and Behribger S16 stage boxes, but they’re less than ideal for several reasons: They are all gradually breaking They seem to introduce hiss and hum to varying degrees The controls, which I’m sure are useful for some, but aren’t useful for us, just mean more fault finding when people inadvertently press buttons or twist knobs I can’t get to the kit to test it at the moment, but I’ve been told that you can go direct from a DL16/S16 to our PM1 belt clips (which are passive). I’m intrigued by this, but somehow doubt there would be enough level from it. I wondered if anyone here has had experience of them? I think the new P2 is the answer, but I really wanted to stay away from more batteries if I can! Thanks, Sam

Just wanted to say thanks all - the kit arrived today and is working exactly as I need it to! Thanks again

Thanks for the great info, some of which I must admit is a little too advanced electronics for me! So, do we think a couple of lengths of https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B01DAEKDMW (possibly cut into shorter lengths) with a https://www.amazon.co.uk/GIDERWEL-Channel-Decoder-Controller-DC12V-24V/dp/B07Q9Y2KLZ/ fits the bill? Sam

Sounds perfect, I’ll see what I can find! Now, what to Google?... Or, thinking about it, would I simply apply +ve voltage from both ends of the string for one of the ones that uses diodes?

Hi, I'm after a bit of advice... I've been asked to provide some "fairy lights" which will be criss-crossed across a 2m diameter circular truss and I'd like to be able to control them a little - just really going from static to various speeds of flickers/fades and perhaps an overall flash, which likely means I need to get them controlled by our console (Chamsys MagicQ). I have an ArtNet to WS2811 / WS2812B / SK6812 / SK2801 / SK8860 controller but wondered what lamps I can get reliably in the next couple of weeks (i.e. likely not from China at the moment)? Here are some things I've thought of, but I haven't quite found the right product yet... Ideally they'd look as similar as possible to "normal" warm white fairy lights, but I'm open to those where each light is in a small translucent ball (i.e. I don't want to have to worry too much about whether they twist around when being hung, so they need a large "field of view")RGB would be a bonus, but would likely just run them on a constant warm white colourEach light could be a different pixel, but not essential at allCould have separate strings of lights on different "dimmers"Ideally they'd have a small twisted cable as opposed to the colourful 3-wire cable that can seen on lots of WS2811 LED stringsI'd prefer LED (as opposed to 240V strings) for safetyCould purchase or hire, but my preference would be to purchase Any help gratefully received! Sam

Hi, I’m looking for a webcam which can stream directly to the web and be embedded on a web page. Ideally it would - be suitable for outdoor use - be powered using PoE - be a dome camera - have at least 1080p resolution but able to be set to just steam 720p It’s not likely to be viewed by many people at once, which is why I’m thinking direct streaming would be fine, but I’m also open to cameras that use a cheap streaming service as an intermediary. Can anyone recommend any products or what I should be searching for for the streaming bit? Thanks, Sam

Thanks for all the replies - some great products and suggestions there. My favourite is definitely the TMB ProShell because it doesn’t introduce extra cable joints (we’re near the max cable length for our HDbaseT system) and can’t go missing. Does anyone know where to get them - their UK web shop is offline? Sam

Hi, We have a CAT6 reel with standard moulded RJ45 plugs on each end that keep getting damaged while being put into position, through various cable runs and hatches, for each event. I’m sure I’ve seen some protector “shells” with screw tops that can be used to encapsulate the ends when not in use, but can’t find them online. Can anyone recommend any? Ideally they’d be able to be retrofitted (i.e. not require re-termination of the cable). Unfortunately etherCon isn’t possible because of what they’ve got to plug into at each end. Any ideas? Thanks Sam

So, I decided to go down the route of getting a Tecpro AD903 and it's working well. Can someone check my working on the following please? I want to make it so that someone near the AD903 can easily choose whether the comms feed is sent to the desk's input that feeds the IEM, rather than it being on all the time (which would distract the musicians). I'm I right that I can just insert a momentary push switch into the signal from pin 4 of the XLR4 socket? I realise that this will likely cause a bit of a pop when engaged, but that's not the end of the world and should be able to be reduced a little by keeping the AD903's output high and the desk's gain low. Tecpro AD903 data sheet at https://www.canford.co.uk/ProductResources/resources/T/Tecpro/02-132%20Issue%204.pdf Any thoughts? Thanks, Sam