gyro_gearloose

Don't just put the glass on the metal with a blob of silicone on top. You need some silicone between the metal and glass. This will help damp any vibrations, and allow the metal to expand and contract as it heats up and cools down. I used this stuff to re-attach some glass gobos and dichroic filters ages ago, though other people have reported success using basic silicone bathroom sealant.

Tascam did make a 3-pedal footswitch, but it might not be compatible with your player. Which model do you have? The MD 350 has an old pre-USB computer keyboard socket on, and people have modified an old keyboard to do what you want to do. Have a look at this thread from a few years ago.

Im not sure that voltage drop will necessarily be an issue. Earlier this year I installed some cctv cameras in our venue using 25M premade shotgun cables. I can’t remember the core size of the power cable, but it wasn’t particularly thick. Maybe less than 1mm? The cameras were powered by a single 12V supply, and a 4-way barrel plug splitter (one socket, four plugs). All cameras worked perfectly. My guess is that the cameras don’t need 12V, but have built in DC:DC converters to knock the volts down to a stable 5V, for example. Voltage drop is a well understood phenomenon so CCTV manufacturers most likely have designed their kit to cope with the problem.

Still end up with back in the day shotgun cable, got to get power there as well. Pelco/PelcoD seems to be PTZ control standard see referred to a lot.

 

True, but since the OP doesn’t seem to have any cabling yet, installed or otherwise, I thought it would make life easier if they used premade CCTV cables. This would be a much simpler solution than adding baluns and DC:DC converters between the cameras and the cable.

Do you have to use RS485 for PTZ control? Modern digital CCTV cameras very often use UTC signals, or Up The Coax, as a way of controlling camera functions. Control signals are sent back to the camera along existing coax video cable. This eliminates the need for separate additional control cabling to be installed.

I’m assuming your cameras are IP cameras, since you mention using twisted pair for video transmission. What’s the maximum voltage you can send down Cat5/6? Since your problem seems to be that you need 12VDC at a reasonable current, can’t you bump up the voltage that you send over the Cat5 and then step it down again at the camera? Voltage goes up, amps go down.

Also bear in mind that getting paint to stick to Aluminium (assuming that’s what your Parcans are made from) can be a bit tricky. The usual solution to that would be to use an etching primer on the bare Aluminium followed by a top coat, but that depends on finding a primer that can cope with the heat.

 

When I first read this threads title, I assumed that someone would be asking about refurbishing a Parcan so they can put it on eBay. There’s a PAR64 on a stand for sale for £300-ish pounds!!! Apparently Parcans are ‘retro’ enough for the trendy interior designers/hopeful optimists to take an interest :)

 

Edit: Good grief! I was wrong!! They want £500 for a Parcan, barn doors, and stand!!! Have a look/laugh here. Right then, I’m just off to raid the theatres scrap bin. I’m sure I could cobble a few grands worth of eBay sales from the tat pile :)

What type of UV light? Only certain types are actually germicidal.

A quick google suggests that far-UV light might be quite effective in killing airborne bacteria and viruses. Apparently it’s quite harmless to people because far-UV cannot penetrate human skin or eyes.

If the cable is corroded, then the only effective solution is to replace it. Soaking the cable in coke might remove the corrosion, but it results in thinner more brittle cable. Sod’s law dictates that this cable will then let you down at the most inconvenient time, potentially leaving you stranded at the side of the road with no working trailer lights ,and no easy way to fix them. If it was me I’d just replace the whole loom with one of these.

 

Edit: If you still want to repair/replace your connector, this thread contains quite a bit of useful information.

I watched the show again last week on the National Theatre YouTube channel. For those of you who aren’t aware, every week the National Theatre are streaming a different show on their YouTube channel. This week they are showing Anthony and Cleopatra.

One step at a time! From what I understand from your post you’ve got TouchOSC to talk to Nomad, but the command line on TouchOSC doesn’t display anything? That sounds like you have an addressing problem.

 

Both Nomad and TouchOSC need to know the IP address and port number of each other. From you’ve written it sounds like TouchOSC knows the IP address/port number of Nomad, but Nomad knows nothing about TouchOSC. This is why Nomad responds to commands from TouchOSC, but TouchOSC doesn’t display the correct command line, tab headings, etc.

 

Here’s a quick guide that I wrote a few years ago when I made a TouchOSC overlay for our Element. It was originally written to help someone connect TouchOSC to the offline EOS software, but the steps should be the same for Nomad and actual consoles as well. The important bit for you is in the last paragraph, but I thought I’d post the whole thing in case anyone else has problems setting up TouchOSC/EOS.

 

First of all you'll need to enable OSC control on the EOS software. To do this, run the EOS family welcome screen and then select 'settings' then 'Network'. Network should be enabled already so we can leave that. Just scroll down the network settings until you get to 'UDP strings and OSC', and tick this option. Leave the OSC format as 1.0 and click 'Accept'.

 

Next, start the offline software and press the 'About' button. Look for the IP setting (this should read something like 192.168.1.67). Now run the TouchOSC software on your tablet. Select 'OSC" under the connections heading to set up the connection between tablet and PC. Make sure 'Enabled' is selected. The IP address from the EOS software should be entered under the 'Host' setting. Leave the outgoing and incoming ports as 8000 and 9000 respectively, and make a note of the 'Local IP address' setting.

 

Go back to the EOS software and select 'Displays' -> 'Setup' -> 'Show settings' -> 'Show control'. Make sure 'String RX' and 'String and OSC TX' are both enabled. Set the 'OSC TX IP Address' to match the 'Local IP address' setting from TouchOSC, the 'OSC TX Port Number' to match the 'Port (incoming)' setting, and the 'OSC RX Port Number' to match the 'Port (outgoing)' setting. Make a note of these particular steps as you'll need to do them for every show that you want to control via OSC. I'm not sure why ETC did not put these options in the 'Network' settings.

Yes, I know why the lens tube rotates. I was just surprised that you can’t lock it in position like you can on, for example, a Source Four.

Thanks for that.

 

Having had a better look at the manual and my fixture, I think I know what the problem is. The clamp is part 27 on the diagram on page 14 of the manual. If you compare it with an actual clamp, you can see that the real clamp has two little metal nubs near where the bolt passes through. These prevent the clamp from being over tightened, maybe to stop an over-enthusiastic lampie from cracking the plastic lens tube?

 

I could improve the clamping force on my lens tube by filing the nubs down a bit, buy I’ll leave it for now. In use it may not be a problem as it is, but it’s nice to know how to fix it if I needed to.

I’ve just got hold of a Selecon Pacific to play with during lockdown, and I’ve got a quick question. The clamp that holds the lens tube in doesn’t tighten up enough to stop the tube from rotating. Is this normal? I’ve looked at the parts diagram in the manual, and it doesn’t look like anything is missing.

We’ve still got 3 Tannoy Pumas, and 2 Tannoy Cougar wedges at work. They still get wheeled out as and when required.

I don't think you need any kind of extra device between SCS and the Hedgehog. They both can talk OSC, which only requires that they are on the same network. You would then just add cues in SCS that send an OSC message to the Hedgehog.

Are you sure about that? I’ve seen it used on a few shows and seems quite bright. If neon flex isn’t visible in direct sun light, then I’m not sure that LED tape will be either. I do know that these LED clusters are visible from some distance outside. Maybe 3 or 4 per segment would work depending on how big you need the characters to be.

However sensible precautions against infection are wise because the virus can be fatal in people with impaired immune systems.

Indeed. In a way these precautions are a lot like the use of vaccines in that they will provide herd immunity, and will help prevent the spread of the virus to those people who are less able to fight it off.

I haven’t used the stuff myself, but LED NeonFlex looks it should do what you need.

Depending on the size of your truck, and how quickly you need to apply and release the braking system, how about using one or two car scissor jacks, or some caravan legs? Quieter than a pneumatic system, possibly quicker and easier than a pallet truck, and far simpler than both pneumatic and hydraulic systems.

Oh, I don't know. I've got some 4 way extension cables these would fit. I'd just need to open the shutter by putting a normal plug in backwards, with its live and neutral pins hanging in the breeze.... :)

 

While its by no means the biggest problem with these adaptors, there doesn't seem to be space to fit a fuse.

We’ve got a Vision 10 and a backup crate sitting in our store room, along with a few manuals. I think we may have the IR remote as well. We even got a mention in LSI when it was installed. We might be persuaded to part with it all, but I’ll have to ask the big boss first.

A quick google reveals that the Hedgehog 4 only has 2 DMX ports, 2 USB sockets, and one Ethernet socket. It looks like you’ll have to either find a USB/MIDI interface that will work with the console, or use a network protocol such as OSC to trigger the console from SCS.

LightSpares are usually my go-to source for parts diagrams, but they only seem to have parts lists and circuit diagrams for the SCX-600. No parts diagrams, unfortunately.