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callumb

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Posts posted by callumb

    New UK Emergency alert system.

    in General Technical Chat

    Posted

    On 3/21/2023 at 3:45 PM, DrV said:

    This is a link to the BBC news item about it.

    "Emergency alerts work on all 4G and 5G phone networks and will not include older "non-smart" phones, the government said."

    So people who are "older" who will most likely not have a smart phone will not get the alert! There's the pit fall of a classic government half assed job. 👏

    • Funny 1
    • Upvote 1

    Problems with Zettle card reader systems (versus Sumup)

    in General Technical Chat

    Posted

    As a former Zettle/ Paypal employee who did some testing between us and competitors the SumUp machines are worse... Also we broke one just knocking off a desk onto a carpeted floor... Not a good look. Their readers are poor for those with low or poor visibility as they are just a sheet of glass with no defined buttons. The Zettle app is far more comprehensive in features and more to come! The only thing that SumUp has for it is the cost but if you are putting a decent card volume though then Zettle could match it or beat it if you ask! Especially if you're a registered charity! 

    The issues you have been experiencing sound like an issue with the tablet than the readers themselves. If you have more up to date iPads you might find the issues disappear! Although what readers are you using? What colour is the wee flag? Green or Blue? 

     

    *theses are my own personal thoughts on the readers and services while I was employed with Zettle/ Paypal for a while I am no longer working for them and the above is my own personal judgement after testing. 

    Multi-trigger smart bulbs

    in Lighting

    Posted

    6 minutes ago, jonhole said:

    Yes, Zero 88's FLX S, FLX and ZerOS Server can now control Philips Hue lamps and smart plugs, which are inexpensive, easy to setup and readily accessable via online and highstreet stores.

    (Note: I am employed by Signify, who own both Zero 88 and Hue)

    All very well but how fast do they update via a Zero88 desk? I have tried something similar with a 3rd party DMX to Hue via the Hue bridge and unless you only ever do fades and don't mind a considerable delay then they are useless for live productions. Even using them with the app they are painfully slow to update. 

    JBL Control 1 Driver Foam

    in Sound

    Posted

    Anyone got a UK supplier of the foam driver surrounds for a pair of JBL Control 1s? I got a pair here that have no foam left on them and they work fine other than that. I can find stuff from Europe or the US but the postage is an arm, leg and two kidneys for a £5 part! Worst case scenario is a new pair of drivers but that would make the deal I got not any better than buying new so unless someone has a pair kicking about then I would rather refoam what I have. 

    Cheers

    Callum

    Using a TV aerial splitter for wireless mics?

    in Sound

    Posted

    Being budget conscious and looking at ways of making life easier I am looking at using something like this: https://www.screwfix.com/p/labgear-1-way-combiner-splitter/49019 to combine two 863 - 865 MHz radio mics into one pair of standard radio mic receiver aerials or paddles when needed. I would get the proper splitter but seems a huge over kill for two units in the one rack!

    Feel free to tell me I'm a total plank for thinking that this is a good idea as I am no RF expert! 🙂

    3D Design Software

    in General Technical Chat

    Posted

    I will 4th the recommendation of Tinkercad! Its stupidly simple to use! For printing You will be cheaper long term to buy your own than have someone else do it. You can pick up a Creality Ender 3 V2 for £200-£300 (The printer I have) and print off 5 times the amount vs somewhere like 3DHubs!

    BlueClone - The Blue Room's Own Comms System

    in The Workshop

    Posted

    The LED is the right way round. It lights up very very dimly when you (accidentally) touch the pins.

     

    When the call button is pressed it does call the other packs so that part works.

     

    So in follow up to this it was a break in the track from the LED to the transistor caused by my gorilla like soldering. laugh.gif

    BlueClone - The Blue Room's Own Comms System

    in The Workshop

    Posted

    In that case you may have different wire colours, I think they were red and white but made up the blue and yellow to make it less confusingwink.gif. They are not the best headsets in the world but they suit me fine.I also tried a very lightweight set but the common ground went all the way to the sealed unit and not openable without distruction.

     

     

    I don't recall how but I opened one of the headsets to fix the wiring joint for a DOA mic, I don't remember if they are screwed or clipped together. Be gentle and you could be OK.

     

    I cracked open the volume and mic switch part, removed it all and wired straight through.

     

    Mines had:

    Left - Blue,

    Right - Green,

    Mic - Red,

    Striped blue/ Copper - Audio ground,

    Copper/clear - Mic Ground

     

    with the Mic and audio grounded at the plug end so needed some tinkering! So I ended up wiring like this and seems to work:

    Blue and green to Tip (blue on plug side of the cable),

    Stripped to ring 1 (green on plug side of the cable)

    Red to ring 2 (Stripped on plug side of the cable)

    Clear/copper to sleeve (red on plug side of the cable)

    Hopefully someone finds this useful and avoids cooking things.

     

     

     

    BlueClone - The Blue Room's Own Comms System

    in The Workshop

    Posted

    It lead me down the right path and after wiring it up so the headphones are connected only to the out and not connected to ground and the microphone connected to ground and mic I can't get anything out of both headsets. Tried twiddling the side tone etc dead silence. Tried with and without the bias voltage. Might just bite the bullet and buy the right headsets than faff about with these.

    Let's take a step back and look at this before jumping.

     

    First of all:Do your headsets have 4 pole jack plugs? [or indeed 4 pole XLR]Have you fitted 4 pole jack sockets?

     

    If answer to both is yes, you need to check the plug and socket are wired the same. IIRC you have the boards without the 4 pin header for the jack socket.

     

    Do you have a multimeter to be able to confirm the headphones are connected to R16 & R20 and mic screen is connected to GND & core connected to R9/R10 etc when plugged into the pack.

     

    I have several sets of these: https://www.ebay.co....SEAAOSwJ8hcqJCz and after rewiring they work well so I see no reason your can't get yours working.

     

     

    It might be worth checking R8, R16 & R20 to ensure they haven't failed.

     

     

    I got the exact same headphones.

     

     

     

    So I have one headset working as expected after much fiddling thanks Sunray for the pointers helped massively. The other has a broken mic from new so that will have to get replace and why I wasn't getting anywhere with it and was just chasing my tail!

    BlueClone - The Blue Room's Own Comms System

    in The Workshop

    Posted

    It lead me down the right path and after wiring it up so the headphones are connected only to the out and not connected to ground and the microphone connected to ground and mic I can't get anything out of both headsets. Tried twiddling the side tone etc dead silence. Tried with and without the bias voltage. Might just bite the bullet and buy the right headsets than faff about with these.

    BlueClone - The Blue Room's Own Comms System

    in The Workshop

    Posted

    So my stereo PC Style headsets arrived for testing the packs with. Plugged in and smoked R8... Checked wiring Mic and Headphones share a common ground (doh - they are stereo after all!) thankfully they have an in volume and mic mute so wired it so the left headphone is over Tip and R1 and the mic over R2 and Sleeve. Plugged it back in and the new R8 smoked again! No issues when theres no headset plugged in. What could I be doing wrong to cause R8 to smoke.

    BlueClone - The Blue Room's Own Comms System

    in The Workshop

    Posted

    So of the 5 packs 1 isn't working right. The call LED won't light when the button is pressed or when there a call on the intercom.

     

    Resistors and capacitors that's part of that circuit all come out with the correct value and all the parts are in the right place. Not sure where to begin troubleshooting.

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