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KevinE

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Everything posted by KevinE

  1. Look at the stuff made by Staubli, the hi-flex stuff is called flexivolt (soft pvc) or silivolt (silicone). Here's some 1mm outer diameter. I use the larger stuff for moving heads Staubli Flexivolt
  2. all sorted folks, these were for a low ceiling install to replace some other cabs, client reports they clear the doors no problem! :)
  3. Hello, looking for the ART312A mk3 circuit diagrams if anyone's managed to get them. This is for a repair in which several SMT parts have been obliterated in the pre-amp section, possibly due to something nasty into an XLR. The main amp seems happy enough. The client's unlikely to go for the price of a new module for various reasons. <_<
  4. No it was a phone call. No matter, time wore on and the client decided to risk them, and they're here now! :)
  5. they dont know the answer, apparently. When I say Behringer, I mean musictribe of course, but I can't really keep up with their name changes
  6. 1. for viewing my childhood/teen photographs. Dad shot on transparency film as we were growing up and I continued until the start of digital. 2. At school, Kodak Carousel. At home, Zeiss Ikon and Rollei 3. Jamming of the auto change mechanism caused by warped slides and focus wander caused by the slide heating up and bowing. 4. The bulb must cool before you move the projector or the bulb's life will be shortened. You need a decent screen. They're not easily viewed in bright sunlight.
  7. Does anyone know the drop dimension on the Tannoy VX12 and VX15 cabs when used with either the vertical or horizontal yoke brackets? My client has rang Behringer who don't seem to know. It's not on the technical documents in Tannoy's respository. Let's keep in touch! <_<
  8. cheers. I wonder why they fell out of favour, they were pretty much everywhere at one time!
  9. Can anyone ID these mics, they were used on TOTP and most BBC music output in my youth.
  10. I know this is an old thread, but it might be useful for someone. I've just had a batch of these in for repair...a leaky roof had drenched them. The correct triac is a BTA12-600BW and uses a quick-fit pressbutton terminal block and philips screw through the tab. The factory fitted fuse is F10A ceramic. Yes, they have large chokes, mounted behind the chassis plate. Firing is by optotriac coupled to the gates by fusible resistors. Each channel also has RFI RC networks. Some of the channels had blown triacs and several of those had damaged or blown the gate drive circuitry. There is a cut-out on the chassis plate to enable you to repair this without taking the pcb off the plate. A couple of the packs had 'domed' power supply capacitors. The pcb-mount fuseholders are easily 'opened up' by careless fitting of fuses and there was evidence of hot spots on the clips. Build quality is superb and on a par with the paradime stuff. :)
  11. You really need to fit the right ones. The -W on the end of an SGS-Thomson triac means they are snubberless. The sensitivity is the letter before it, eg S, A, B, C with S the most sensitive and C the least. There is also a T which means logic-level gate drive. The snubberless ones really come into play with regard to reliability when driving inductive, transformer or motor loads as this is when they may cause trouble. It shouldnt matter either way if it's just lamp loads. The PSC does make a difference in that it affects the current that flows under fault conditions. I'm sure that since Liteprocessor have made dimmers for years, they'd have noticed if they had designed a suicidal product like yours seem to be! Try FF fuses and see how you go.
  12. You might just have a very low impedance supply, ie very close to a large substation. Triacs and thyristors regularly blow thanks to popped lamps, it's not the dimmer's fault. You could try fitting semiconductor fuses, on no account use T fuses. Also best to use ceramic HRC type (sandfilled) because glass ones can remain slightly conductive after blowing due to sputtering of conductive material and can have a prolonged arc. Semiconductor fuses are marked FF and are a few pounds a pack more expensive, ie £1 a fuse rather than 10p a fuse. Whether you think that's worth the expenditure is up to you. FF10A fuses
  13. :( Thats very kind of Abstract to volunteer EVL !! Have you rung EVL or just emailed them? EVL are the disco subsidiary of BPC Circuits Ltd, maybe they can tell you why there's no reply at EVL.
  14. Try Abstract AVR, they took MAD over. EVL have alot of MAD employees but I cant imagine they'll be falling over themselves wanting to support a product they dont actually make.
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