andy™

If you cant even tap dance on the original floor, how are you going to attach the ply/hardboard/etc?

if your using something thicker (I.e 12-18mm) then you can fit these on the floor in the corners / edges facing up then push the wood onto it - itll hold the sheets together from the bottom and hopefully not damage the existing floor

https://www.toolstation.com/safe-plate/p20903?store=FG&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&gclid=Cj0KCQiAmZDxBRDIARIsABnkbYTuB4S7s26xArlRX4bwcXzaD3oiwLbR7x8xJhShSNtvyMJ3TNwCsREaApAtEALw_wcB

Ah yes, that reminds me, the PTE300VP wastes a couple of centimetres of tape every time for no good reason except they want to sell you more tape

same with the 550 which I use. its because of where the print head and cutter is, it needs to feed that through. if im printing multiple of the same then just print x copies, only waste at the start. if multiple different then I often just make 1 long label then cut each one out individually.

on an older one with manual cutter, after print done you had to press feed first (which is where the waste comes from) before you could cut the tape to get your label. very handy because you could then start your next label, it would feed a little then wait until you cut it, then continue the label. no waste

as for the tapes, generic ebay ones have always worked for me. no noticable difference in quality / performance

 

Is that the DW088? It seems to be a good price online.

no, mines the DW087

I have the dewalt red laser (had it longer than the green has been around). works great. not as bright as the green though. it has horizontal & vertical beam but you can select either or both

just because its mostly for 'fitters' should make any different. just stick it somewhere, turn it on and you have a level line to work from

Most manual roller doors seem to operate in a similar way to chain hoists.If a chain hoist can hold say, an engine, then it can act as a brake against the roller door?

I don't think a roller has a brake as such?

different to a chain hoist - with a chain hoist you can let go of the chain and itll stay in place. with the shutter you need to hold the chain. let go and it will come down under its own weight, force limited by the spring

I do electric shutters not manual, but the standards for mechanical aspects are the same (BSEN12604), just doesnt then need BSEN12453 for the electrics side

usually on a service youd be looking for any issues with it, give it a bit spray etc, they dont really take much doing although id expect they would have at least had a look behind any covers at the top, check the condition of the chain etc, make sure spring is balanced (obvious by taking it up & down)

current standards require that it cant fall in even on a failure of a single part. in electric that usually means a brake on non motor side, however manual shutters have the spring that side so really any single failure and its not likely to suddenly drop excessively

depending on the recorder & software it may flag up motion on the timeline so you can easily skip periods of inactivity. at least blue iris does, cant say for other manufacturers or software

if youre looking for big changes, I.e a door has been left open or something removed then you can easily skip days, hours etc looking for a change then narrow down til you find it

 

 

You don't care about the relationship between the two tunnels, because they only meet at the ends, where trains are moving slowly

the channel tunnel has 2 large crossover points where trains can change tunnel. there will also be seperate overhead sections so they could isolate a section of tunnel for maintenance. so it would be easily possible to split each section between phases

for small on site work I use a parweld xts142. will easily burn a 3.2mm rod without blowing 13a fuses

larger stuff at the workshop then its either MIG or a heavy duty stick

wow... 16 year old thread...

a 13a fuse will never blow at 20a either. itll take 22-23a to blow, even that would take minutes. take a look at 1362 time current charts

the best & easiest option for those not all that competent with electrics would be to use a plug in adapter that has built in amp / voltage meter etc, save all the hassle of making a lead with individual cores to put a clamp meter around

 

Initially we expected to wire as 110V across phases but of course it's not possible to provide standard CT earthed 110V as 3 phase and a phone call to the hire shop (welder supplier) indicated they were expecting 170-190V on a 32A 5pin socket.

3 phase 63.5/110v is common on building sites and is exactly the same as 230/400 just a lower voltage. Earth is taken from the star point. Neutral would be the same but its not usually used. the 110v sockets are wired between phases so a normal socket has Line Line & earth (no neutral). a 4 pin (or 5 pin with neutral) yellow socket could be used for 3 phase

cant say ive seen a 110/190 supply though, however it could exist with the right transformer windings

 

 

In the UK the only common types are yellow, single phase only

in a way yellow being single phase only is not completely accurate. a normal 110v supply doesnt have a neutral. its either 55-0-55 split phase if fed from a 230v single phase supply or 63.5-0-63.5 between 2 phases if fed from a TP supply

you could also use a 4 pin blue for 3 phase 230v

I use freestyler & an enttec USB DMX adapter for similar purposes

also got a basic 192 channel from CPC