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andy™

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Everything posted by andy™

  1. if your using something thicker (I.e 12-18mm) then you can fit these on the floor in the corners / edges facing up then push the wood onto it - itll hold the sheets together from the bottom and hopefully not damage the existing floor https://www.toolstation.com/safe-plate/p20903?store=FG&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&gclid=Cj0KCQiAmZDxBRDIARIsABnkbYTuB4S7s26xArlRX4bwcXzaD3oiwLbR7x8xJhShSNtvyMJ3TNwCsREaApAtEALw_wcB
  2. same with the 550 which I use. its because of where the print head and cutter is, it needs to feed that through. if im printing multiple of the same then just print x copies, only waste at the start. if multiple different then I often just make 1 long label then cut each one out individually. on an older one with manual cutter, after print done you had to press feed first (which is where the waste comes from) before you could cut the tape to get your label. very handy because you could then start your next label, it would feed a little then wait until you cut it, then continue the label. no waste as for the tapes, generic ebay ones have always worked for me. no noticable difference in quality / performance
  3. doubt youll find any. from a safety point, DMX cant be used to operate machinery
  4. I have the dewalt red laser (had it longer than the green has been around). works great. not as bright as the green though. it has horizontal & vertical beam but you can select either or both just because its mostly for 'fitters' should make any different. just stick it somewhere, turn it on and you have a level line to work from
  5. different to a chain hoist - with a chain hoist you can let go of the chain and itll stay in place. with the shutter you need to hold the chain. let go and it will come down under its own weight, force limited by the spring
  6. I do electric shutters not manual, but the standards for mechanical aspects are the same (BSEN12604), just doesnt then need BSEN12453 for the electrics side usually on a service youd be looking for any issues with it, give it a bit spray etc, they dont really take much doing although id expect they would have at least had a look behind any covers at the top, check the condition of the chain etc, make sure spring is balanced (obvious by taking it up & down) current standards require that it cant fall in even on a failure of a single part. in electric that usually means a brake on non motor side, however manual shutters have the spring that side so really any single failure and its not likely to suddenly drop excessively
  7. depending on the recorder & software it may flag up motion on the timeline so you can easily skip periods of inactivity. at least blue iris does, cant say for other manufacturers or software if youre looking for big changes, I.e a door has been left open or something removed then you can easily skip days, hours etc looking for a change then narrow down til you find it
  8. the channel tunnel has 2 large crossover points where trains can change tunnel. there will also be seperate overhead sections so they could isolate a section of tunnel for maintenance. so it would be easily possible to split each section between phases
  9. for small on site work I use a parweld xts142. will easily burn a 3.2mm rod without blowing 13a fuses larger stuff at the workshop then its either MIG or a heavy duty stick
  10. have a look at T nuts, far easier for getting a thread into ply. you could try to tap the ply, but it wouldnt work very well, if at all
  11. wow... 16 year old thread... a 13a fuse will never blow at 20a either. itll take 22-23a to blow, even that would take minutes. take a look at 1362 time current charts the best & easiest option for those not all that competent with electrics would be to use a plug in adapter that has built in amp / voltage meter etc, save all the hassle of making a lead with individual cores to put a clamp meter around
  12. 3 phase 63.5/110v is common on building sites and is exactly the same as 230/400 just a lower voltage. Earth is taken from the star point. Neutral would be the same but its not usually used. the 110v sockets are wired between phases so a normal socket has Line Line & earth (no neutral). a 4 pin (or 5 pin with neutral) yellow socket could be used for 3 phase cant say ive seen a 110/190 supply though, however it could exist with the right transformer windings in a way yellow being single phase only is not completely accurate. a normal 110v supply doesnt have a neutral. its either 55-0-55 split phase if fed from a 230v single phase supply or 63.5-0-63.5 between 2 phases if fed from a TP supply you could also use a 4 pin blue for 3 phase 230v
  13. I use freestyler & an enttec USB DMX adapter for similar purposes also got a basic 192 channel from CPC
  14. budget key. more used on communal cupboards etc
  15. but are almost always 230v 3 phase, no good on a 400/690 TP motor. it would need a 230/400v TP motor which are available but not as common not many options on SP. youd be best getting something thats designed to SP. easiest option (at least on the wall saw) would be to replace the motor with a SP motor. may need controls altered too (might have a 400v input control transformer, youd need to change it to 230v)
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